2150a troubles

[kimcrwbr1]

On the accelerator pump does it push the plunger all the way out so when you touch the throttle fuel squirts into the venturi one spring is for the pump and the other relieves it when you open the throttle all the way so if the plunger dont touch the lever it is not correct and did you put the linkage on the #3 hole on the throttle lever. The vacuum nipple that points up is for the computer to turn off the accelerator pump when not needed. To set the idle screws turn them all the way in snug not tite and then out 1 1/2 turns warm the motor up and make sure the choke is all the way out then unplug the throttle motor and turn the idle screws out till you get the best rmp do that a couple times and get them at the leanest possible without dropping rpm you may need to unscrew the idle stop screw if the rpms go too high get the highest rpm then plug the motor in and unscrew the stop until the computer controls the idle. The idle stop screw is actually called anti deisel screw it keeps the throttle from closing all the way when you let your foot off the gas so adjust it so it barely dont touch the throttle lever at an idle. Have you checked the timing to 10 dbtdc with the spout disconnected. I just checked the accelerator pump parts i have and the big spring goes first the the diaphram then the plunger. Does the choke work correct and open all the way by itself and also when you adjust the idle screws check that they are within 1/2 turn count the turns in then back out once you get the best idle or highest vacuum. check for vacuum leaks by taking a vacuum line put it up to your ear and listen around all the gaskets, hose connections, egr, carb base. any Qs you can email me at kimcrwbr1@aol.com for a quicker response. Oh did you do a wet float adjustment once you get it running you can pull the air horn off the top of the carb and check the fuel level in the float bowl you want 7/16 inch from the top of the bowl to the center of the fuel not the edge as the fuel will climb up the edge. You can run the engine like that till you get the level right. GL

 

[kimcrwbr1]

If you change the float level redo the idle adjustment just make sure you unplug the idle motor to get it right and check the antideisel screw that it dont affect the idle then you can adjust the choke put it on the high idle cam or v notch and turn the screw on the bottom to about 1000 rpm then when it is cold push the peddle about half down and see how it idles. The curb idle is another one once you get the idle good then turn the motor off the idle motor should extend all the way unplug the idle motor and start it and adjust the position of the motor to about 800-900 rpm whatever you prefer then plug it back in and the idle should drop to normal when your making these adjustments make sure the intake air temp sensor is plugged in and all vacuum lines are plugged.

 

[happilymarried]

Wow, thanks for all the info and the quick response!

The plunger does go all the way out and contact the lever, so I guess I have the accelerator pump right. I hooked the linkage up to hole #2 though, because that's what the tech pages said to do...should I switch it to #3?

I haven't checked the timing yet 'cause I used to have old VWs I could static time and I don't have a timing light, but I know it's something I'll need to invest in eventually.

I didn't do a wet float adjustment...just the dry one while I was putting it back together.

The choke does work, and opens up all the way when warm. Unrelated to the carb, should it take 5+ minutes for the engine to warm up? I think my fan clutch is bad because the fan is spinning at all times, which I'm assuming is slowing the warm up process. This weekend I was planning on replacing most of the cooling system stuff anyway for good measure (including the thermostat and fan clutch). If I can't get the carb perfectly dialed in while cold, can I at least expect it to warm up faster after this repair?

I was wondering about the fast-idle cam and all that. There seems to be a lot of play in it, and the screw is about all the way in and doesn't touch the cam completely. It rests in the v-notch slot, but there is still about an 1/8 of an inch between the end of the screw and the cam. Should I be concerned about that and what should I do?

I know that's a lot of stuff...just trying to make sure I have a clear understanding of what I should do. It took me so long to get it where it's at, I'm a little afraid of making it worse by messing with it some more Thanks a lot!

 

[Hotrodlincoln]

The fan will spin at all times, but it doesn't spin as fast as the engine. When it gets hot the clutch "tightens" and brings the fan speed up until the engine cools. When that happens the fan will sound like an airplane is under your hood because it will move so much air.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

When it is warming up no water is going through the radiator anyway until the thermostat opens. The heater should start working pretty quick but yea it takes a while for the engine to come up to temp as long as your not overheating you should be ok. As far as the idle thing did you adjust the idle screws. For starters turn them out 3 turns then start the motor then turn the idle stop to a respectable idle till it warms up and the choke opens all the way. I found mine liked to run rich on the idle screws but still got pretty good mileage so what you want to do is get the highest rpm with the idle screws then back off of the throttle stop and see if the computer takes over. If not disconnect the battery for 15 minutes and try again. When you turn off the key the plunger should extend all the way. If the book says #2 hole for the accelerator keep it there I am sure you are too lean on the idle air. Does it pump fuel when you touch the throttle you can try #3 if you want and it important to keep the sensor in the filter housing plugged in while you messing with the carb

 

[kimcrwbr1]

If you disconnect the battery you need to take it for a spin at medium speeds till it gets good and warm. Are you sure you have all the vacuum lines correct and no leaks that could be a big par of why it dont idle right

 

[happilymarried]

I'm pretty sure all vacuum lines are right...they are old though. I've tried to patch/tape up any apparent leaks as I've been working on it, but - as you know - there are a crap-load of vacuum lines under that hood.

So I need to have that sensor plugged into to the filter housing? I have always unplugged it since I've been setting the whole filter housing aside. I'm assuming I just leave it plugged in and put the filter housing as far out of the way as it will reach?

The plunger does extend all the way when it shuts off and I can see it moving in and out as the engine runs...it just doesn't usually contact the throttle lever since I had to adjust the anti-diesel screw to keep the rpms up.

By idle screws, you mean the two air/fuel mixture screws on the front, right? I have adjusted those a bunch. I called a mechanic friend while I was working on it and he said it sounded way rich, so I turned them out 6 turns (I think 3 full turns, or 6 half turns...I'm not sure how people gauge that) and it ran much better...just not perfect and still hates me when it's cold.

I won't have time to really mess with it 'til Saturday, but I'll try a bunch of the stuff you've posted and see how it goes. In the mean-time, I'm mastering finessing the throttle to get it to the highway...once I'm there and up to speed it runs like a champ.

Thanks guys!

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Hey good to hear your making progress start a new thread using the word vacuum it sounds like the carb is ok. You need to assure there are no vacuum leaks apply vacuum to the egr while it is idleing it should stall and see if the egr is even getting vacuum put your tonge on the end of the line and give it gas. If it stalls the egr is most likely working but get a new gasket and take it off and see if it is closing all the way by blowing on the other hole if it leaks it is either the diaphram or the plunger they are spendy new so see if you can cleant it and get it to seal. get a vacuum guage and in the tech section at close to the botton is a section on how to properly read it. Go to the bone yard and grab a mess of vacuum lines and fitting to get it all working correct is your coffee can holding a vacuum as soon as you turn the motor off unplug it you should hear a rush of air into it then get it running again and check it again. after about 15 mins engine off and see if it holds a vac kinna time it on how long it takes to replace the air. focus on the vacuum and timing for now then go to reading the codes. and if you want to remove the sensor in the air clean and rinse it with alcohol to clean it then just plug it in out of the way where it dont get hot to adjust the carb and listen for vacuum leaks. The best way i found tape a 3 to 4 foot piece of vacuum hose to a the end of a wire wire and stick the other end up to your ear and move it around all the gaskets and fittings when you hear a hissing you can pinpoint a leak it also works good for exhaust leaks also just be careful of moving parts once the engine mechanical is all good then move on to the computer

 

[happilymarried]

so I tape the vacuum hose to a piece of electrical wire? Like just a short piece of the uninsulated copper part? Do I stick that in the hose and tape it up or tape it on the side? I know, dumb question.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

kinna like a wand you cn reach tite places leave the end of the hose open the put the other end up to your ear and poke around with the wire test it stick it in the carb and hear the vacuum