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2150a carb question


sirjeremyjohnson

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 4, 2010
Messages
52
City
Fitzgerald, GA
Vehicle Year
1985
Transmission
Manual
I don't believe my idle control solenoid ever moves or adjusts anything thing on my carb, I am rebuilding the carb tomorrow, cant i just remove the idle solenoid and adjust the carb as if it were a standard 2150? Im really not interested in getting the electronics to work, it runs fine now without it.
 
Go ahead and do the rebuild and if your still running off the computer let the idle motor do its job. Hook it all back up set your idle air needles out three turns and start it. Make sure all the sensors are plugged in including the IAT in the air filter housing. Let it warm up for a bit and do the wet float adjustment. You want around 3/4 an inch from the top of the float bowl to the center of the fuel (real important) you can run it with the top off the carb for short periods to get it right. Disconnect the battery for about 1/2 hour while you put it back together check all the vacuum lines are right and all the sensors are plugged in then warm it up to temp the idle motor should be working. back off of the antideisel screw by the throttle cable where it is not touching the throttle lever. That is probably why the idle motor is not working. While it is running unplug the idle motor to adjust the idle air screws turn them out or in for the highest idle speed or vacuum pressure. then plug the idle motor back in the engine should idle right down keep the idle stop screw from touching the throttle lever all it does is keep the throttle plates from closing too far when you let off of the gas then the motor takes back over the idle. To adjust the curb idle turn the engine off and the idle motor should fully extend, unplug the idle motor and start it this is the curb idle speed adjust the position of the motor for curb ldle speed and lock it down and plug the motor back in it should idle right down to normal. After you get the carb adjusted then you can work on the choke make sure the timing is correct before you do any adjusting or you will have to do it all over again except the wet float. the choke should be close but you may need to adjust he high idle as long as you dont mess with it during the rebuild that is the screw on the bottom pointing back to the firewall. GL
 
yea, hopefully it all will work, it doesn't run teribble now, i just know its not adjusted correctly, and sometimes stumbles pulling off in 1st. Ive been under the hood with it running, and have never seen the idle motor move.

I thought about going duraspark, but I really dont want to buy another carb.

we will see how it goes, I just went outside and pulled the carb off for tomorrow, that took all of 10 mins. I did notice that there was no base gasket in between the spacer and the intake. and when i bought the truck there were zip ties holding the choke linkage:annoyed:

we shall see.
 
You can get gasket material and make a new gasket I do recommend surfacing the base of the carb while you have it apart. It dont take much but the way I do it is glue a piece of 180 grit to a flat board and slowly work it in a circular motion to get it good and flat be careful not to gouge it and a new carb spacer helps also it is easy to break off one of the ears it it isnt good and flat the spacer has gaskets on both sides. Just make sure the idle stop screw is not touching the throttle lever when you go to adjust it and all the electrical connectors are plugged in. If you find the emission stuff is not working correct the duraspark conversion is the best alternative but those engines run real good on the computer also kinna of a crap shoot tho. If you dont have to pass emissions dont put alot of money into the EEC.
 
i just got it disassembled, and theres a big crack in my throttle position sensor...

great.

nobody has one in stock, so i guess ill just stick it back together and have to change it out when it comes in.

rebuild still in progress....
 
You can check it with a volt ohm meter see if the needle sweeps even as you turn the sensor I believe the center pin is the common the other two should sweep up on one and down on the other. Plugged in the computer feeds it 5 volts on the other two it goes from 5v to about .7 as you open the throttle and the other one does the opposite. Yea it`s a biotch finding parts and they are all spendy.
 
I got it all back together and on the truck, runs amazing. My idle solinoid still doesnt move, but from what i can see it doesnt even need it. I figure why run around trying to fix all these electronics if it seems to be maintaining itself.

I did notice in the carb i had number 50 jets, i dont know if that matters or what it does. WHy is it that you cant go duraspark using the stock carb?
 
You can use the stock carb but you will have to make a metering blocking to put on it.
 
Mine would run OK for a while but it would always need to be tweaked and the mileage would get bad. You can run the feedback carb with the duraspark like was said just add a metering block to add air to the high speed jets the idle air is adjustable with the needles. There is a link somewhere here on how to make the metering block.
 
Ok i really need help....

Now on a cold start when i press the gas before starting to set the fast idle cam down, it doesnt set. What adjusts this? do i need to turn the choke further counter clockwise to increase the tension on it. If i put a little pressure with my finger on the cam and twist the throttle it will enagage, but not by itself anymore. Driving me crazy.
 
If you have the carb dialed in turn the choke thermostat so it closes the choke plate all the way counter clockwise you will need to open the throttle for it to shut all the way. Did you make sure the choke stat spring was in the fork so it both opens and closes the choke plate. Push the pulloff pod all the way in and crack the throttle again the high idle screw should be on the V notch on the cam. the high idle screw is the one on the bottom pointing toward the firewall and the one on the top is for the opening of the choke butterfly you want it around 3/16 of an inch open when you first start it. get the pull off opening and sitting on the V notch of the cam start it and adjust the high idle to around 1100 rpm. You want the choke plate to be fully open after the engine is about 3/4 up to temp.<a href="http://s984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/kimcrwbr1/?action=view&current=choke.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/kimcrwbr1/choke.jpg" border="0" alt="choke"></a>
 
choke.jpg
 
If you didnt mess with the choke settings when you had it apart try closing the choke spring to hold the buttrfly fully closed when you press on the throttle start it up and adjust the high idle speed once the engine gets up to temp or starts running smooth turn the choke spring back to where it starts opening let it get up to temp the choke should be fully open with a fair amount of spring tension. With a older spring you just have to get it where you want it so it closes fully when cold and opens all the way about 3/4 up to temp.
 
The choke relay is the one by the starter solenoid make sure you have power to the choke thermostat shortly after you start it the computer controls the relay. On mine the connector got corroded for the relay just in case you have problems with power.
 
The thermostat is deff moving the choke plate, and if i hold the choke plate closed and blip the throttle then the fast idle cam will fall down in the right spot, it seems like maybe the thermostat isnt allowing enough tension on the choke to cause the cam to fall down...

Im gonna mess with it more when i get home
 

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