2150a carb question

[kimcrwbr1]

Yea the choke thermostat will hold the choke all the way closed when you push on the throttle half way down. When you start it the pull off will open the choke around 5/16 to a 1/4 of an inch giving it a rich condition. Adjust the high idle speed and the more spring tension the longer the choke stays closed and the idle stays high on mine I have the choke set to be fully open after about 10 minutes. If you have it right you should be able to start it and go with little or no hesitation I press the throttle about half way down and it starts right up after sitting for a couple weeks.

 

[sirjeremyjohnson]

I think i have it finally. I think the choke just wasnt closing all the way when the engine was cold. I turned the thermostat a little counter clockwise and now it seems to engage the fast idle cam by itself.

so far so good.

thanks for all your help so far

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Yea you have to play with it just make sure it opens all the way when up to temp or your gas mileage will suck. Just checking how many turns out are your idle air screws and did you check that they were within 1/2 turn of each other. Count the turns in to lightly seated position and then back out. They need to be close or you could damage the engine. The 2.8 likes to run a little rich at an idle it will actually help on the upper end performance and idle better. Mine runs best a little over three turn out on the idle air screws. within 1/4 of a turn of each other.

 

[sirjeremyjohnson]

see thats the thing.

ever since i've gotten the truck it WILL NOT idle with the screws anywhere near three turns. Im talking more like five. I don't know why, and there are no leaks, bc thats what i thought too. If i put them anywhere near three turns i have to keep touching the pedal every couple of seconds, like its only running of what the accelerator pump feeds it.

It idles great right now, and this morning did the high idle perfectly all by itself. I do worry about my gas mileage though.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Have you put a vacuum guage on it. It sounds like a vacuum leak somwhere. To check if the egr is working while it is ideling apply manifold vacuum to it the engine should stall. The way I checked if it was working put your finger up underneath the diaphram housing and touch the diaphram and give it gas at the same time the diaphram should move then return. On the vacuum diagram the solenoid closest to the firewall is for the egr purge and the purge line goes to the bottom of the air horn on the carb so it pulls filtered air in to close the egr.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/diagrams/1983vacuumhoseguide.jpg

Its the orange one a few guys had it hooked up to manifold vacuum and it will hold the egr wide open making it impossible to tune the carb. At an idle the egr stays fully closed you might want to pull it and check if it is still good. Be sure and get a new gasket to put it back together first before you pull it. It can have two problems the valve dont shut all the way and the seal for the actuating shaft could be leaking. hold your thumb on the valve side and blow into the open hole to check the seal first then release the valve and blow into it. If you go to clean it soak it in carb cleaner but dont get the seal wet and after a while hold the valve open and blast it with water good it is expensive to replace new if you can find one. Allways use a new gasket when installing it or it will leak. sounds like it is real close tho GL

 

[sirjeremyjohnson]

I think you were right on with the egr valve, i put vacuum on it wouldnt hold vacuum, you could pull air right through it, so i pulled it off and made me up a blockoff gasket and re-installed it. and volia, it can now turn the mixture screws to 3 turns and she runs fine. should save alot of gas right?

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Kewl on mine the ports for the egr on the heads and intake were totally plugged with carbon and there was a leaky seal for the valve. How well does the timing advance with the spout plugged in at an idle it should be around 25 btdc and pretty much go off the scale when you floor it. For upper end power check the knock sensor with the timing light on it at an idle have someone tap on the block next to the sensor it is in the block by the starter. The timing should retard with the tapping just dont hit the sensor they are brittle. If you find it problematic keeping it running good dont mess around get the duraspark stuff all those wires, sensors, vacuum lines go away. All you need is the oil and coolant senders, alternator wires and OD lockout if you have one. I got the harness for the dizzy out of a 84 4cyl ranger and two wires for the ignition. Just use the coil you have get the dizzy, cap, adaptor, rotor and module for around $130 and just use that carb. The only vacuum you will need is for the dizzy everything else gets plugged. You should be able to do it in a day if you have everything all together and do the research first. The electric choke thermostat will also need to be changed for one off a late 70s carb that runs off battery voltage you will burn that one up if you switch it off the ignition but it might work if you hook it direct to the alternator the small terminal that has no volts when the engine is not running but has around 7 volts when it is turning. As long as it advances proper dont mess with it mine was getting around 18 mpg when thwe computer was working getting around 17 now with a non feedback carb 2150.

 

[sirjeremyjohnson]

yea, i do plan to go duraspark, eventually anyway. all the other stuff seems to be pretty cheap. i just hate the price on that carb, and i can't find any decent condition used carbs near me.

honestly im pretty sure my ecu is shot, im actually amazed it runs bc the computer responds to nothing at all. i can unplug anything under the hood other than the coil and it doesn't care at all. i know its primitive, but still.

im pretty sure id have alot more power with the duraspark, the whole truck feels slow to me, i know its not a "powerhouse" but still. in 4wd it has plenty of power, but in 2wd its a whole different story, which im sure has to alot with the gearing.

thanks for all your help, im glad you followed this.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Have you disconnected the battery for 30 minutes to reset the computer. Probably a mute point since you will probably piss it off for waking it up with all the inputs that arent inputting or the outputs arent outputting he he. Your more than likely stuck on base timing maybe someone here will have the stuff you need for cheap. I bought mine new at autozone. Start a new thread under the parts category and we can guide you thru the wiring yours will be the second colored diagram.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/2_8Duraspark.html