2011 Torsion key questions

[rayroy1]

Hey Guys

I just picked up a 2011 ranger and was having a quick look at cranking my torsion bar keys. Looks like the passenger side has substantially more thread available for cranking. why is this?
Is there any down side to cranking the driver side to the max and matching the passenger height to this? How much lift will i achieve with this?

I assume i will need an alignment after. Is there any other premature wear issues with lifting the truck with this method?

I was also considering getting the 07 and older keys. Will i need longer shocks for these? Also how do i go about installing them? I assume i need a fancy tool. is there any way around this?

Thanks for all the help

-R

 

[cstishenko]

One higher than the other stock is to compensate for the crown in the road. I maxed both of my keys with no issue.

Premature wear will be on your balljoints, CV shafts and possibly tires.

Height - expect 1-2 inches

Try maxing out your keys before you go to the hassle of swapping keys.

You will likely need longer shocks or shock spacers. Search my previous posts, I've done numerous write ups on how to make the spacers for your stock shocks.

Maxing your keys and doing shock spacers should level out your truck while maintaining stock ride. Whether you max your stock keys, or go to aftermarket keys dosent matter.. It's doing the same thing.

If you want to go bigger - get pre 08 keys/ readylift keys and belltech 6400 shackles.

If you want to go bigger yet. (33's) a bodylift is NEEDED. ontop of previously mentioned mods.

If you want to go bigger yet. (35's+) just don't.

 

[06RangerXLT]

no, the drivers side is cranked more to compensate for the added weight on the drivers side. (driver, battery, 65L fuel tank).

you will need longer shocks regardless. Driving on maxed keys may blow the stock shocks when the hit the limit of travel. Also the piston in the shock isnt at the ride position, so it wont be effective. You can do different keys also.

I havent installed keys so i dont know the process, ask ADSM about that. (im coil over)

Not sure why the guy above me is talking about body lifts and such... LOL

you can clear 32's stock. i did my 32's on my stock 2wd suspension. remember for 4x4, lifting the stock shafts will add wear on the universals. so dont go too high. If you have the money check out dixon bros 4x4 long travel. If your 2wd, call Doetsch shocks and get spindles and shackles. I have them, and love em. 3" lift from them is like $400 and its suspension not body.

any questions PM me.

 

[cstishenko]

Hey 2WD, go to your 2WD section. We're 100% different than your baja mall crawl setup. If he's asking about his torsion keys that he's looked at under the truck means he's 4WD.

I stated what I did because it is the truth. I've been there, I've been FRUSTRATED.
I Looked at trading the truck in on a Jeep due to our pavement oriented suspension setup. I live in the heart of 4x4 country/BritishColumbia. Some of the gnarliest shit in Canada is out this way. I've been under the truck, had the truck apart multiple times, and tried a few different ways to MAX out the stock components without going to the 4" Gooberlift or Dixon bros. I'm not speaking out of my ass. I'm speaking from POOR ride quality, lack of suspension travel, and torn off flares i've experienced first hand. I've finally found something that is comfortable on pavement, and rocks when off-road without breaking the bank.

The alignment shop says the keys are indexed the way they are from the factory for the truck to track straight on our highways. Whether that be due in part to the weight on the drivers side... My keys are both maxed and my ground to fender arch clearance when on pavement are within 1/8th inch side to side.

Shock spacers are fine if your on a budget. Search my previous posts. Double nut the bottom studs before they go into the control arm. Double nut on top of the shaft shoulder before the washer goes on that holds the lower of the two rubber bushings and then re-install top nut on shock shaft. Longer Rancho's would do as well - but if you have a new truck use your stockers until they're worn out.

-31's FLEXED OUT when stock rubbed for me.
-32's under any kind of flex will rub even with a full torsion twist.
-33's rubbed on full torsion twist just by reversing on pavement at anything more than 1/4 turn on the wheel.

You will need a torsion bar unloading tool to install keys. It's not tough, but you will need the tool. Try maxing your stock keys first, but give enough time to space out your shocks at the same time or your ride will be unnecessarily rough, limiting your suspension travel and possibly damaging your shocks.

As stated above twice now - and for the third time. It will prematurely wear your Balljoints and your CV shafts. With our electronic transfer cases our CV shafts are turning as long as our wheels are turning, no un-locking hubs here. And they are not simple universal joints, they are CV shafts.

Any questions, search. Many have been covered. Anything can't be answered and i'll try to help.

 

[cstishenko]

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=110303&highlight=disconnect

This might help.

 

[rayroy1]

Thanks for all the help and support guys!

If i understand correctly you are saying to max out both sides regardless of how far out the bolts are currently? How bad of premature wear will there be if i max out the torsion keys? Will it be every 10000 km or what should i expect?

Also if i want to go to new shocks for after the Torsion key max what length should i be looking at and any suggestions of type.

Thanks again

-R

 

[cstishenko]

I have 15000 km on my truck lifted, nearly 100% offroad with no ill effect.

By premature wear - you might have to replace them after 100,000km instead of at 200,000km.

As for longer shocks.. As far as I can tell Rancho is the only one that makes extended length shocks for our front ends. We have an odd lower mount, and i've gone through every brand I could think of before making spacers for my Bilsteins.