2011 "leveling kit"

[Jim Oaks]

Good point.......

 

[sgtsandman]

Point on reusing u-bolts. If you use lift blocks, they probably won't be long enough to reuse.

One risk of reusing u-bolts is that I've had some where the threads on either the bolts themselves or the nuts stripped out. I had to run and get some aftermarket ones to get the truck running again.

As cheap as u-bolts are, I think it would be better to just buy new ones of the appropriate size and be done with it.

 

[Jim Oaks]

U-joints?

 

[1996xlt]

So the idea behind the exploder springs was 2-3" of lift without blocking and shackle-ing my way there while keeping a softer spring. I'm starting to suspect my spring packs have been overloaded a few times; put a BII rear sway bar under it the other day (it did not have a rear bar from the factory) and its a different truck now. Guessing theyre still wrapping (feels like it at least). My overloads are facing the wrong direction (they bend down instead of up), which is what leads me to suspect they're shot. I texted a photo to bobby asking if they looked right to him. His answer was "hell no"

I'm forever leery on using lift shackles from my Jeep days after watching the TJ guys have to prybar theirs back to the right position after getting in a bind. Are they a problem on ranger? Any (even ancidotal) stories of shackles flipping over?

I never had that issue, but my truck was on-road 98% of the time, so the likely hood of it happening was fairly remote. I had the same goal you did to ditch the stock lift blocks while keeping roughly the same ride height and augmenting the final position with the lift shackle if needed. I still have the springs with the pin flip (I guess I'm hoping to find a cheap BII or explorer sport.)

Not sure what I'm going to land with for tires. Something in the 29-31" range. Unsure if I'm sticking with the 15" wheels, or going to 16" yet. Since pavement and dirt roads are going to be the majority of the truck's service life, I've been reading on what to go for as far as tires are concerned. I'm leaning towards something in the 30" range, just much wider than the 235/75/R15s that are on it now.

FWIW I had both General Grabber AT2s and Toyo Open Countrys in 31"; the Generals held up decent, but when they started to show wear they started to feather and wore pretty quick. The Toyos were only on for a couple of months before I sold it and I felt they were much smoother, but that may have been due to the AT2s being so worn.

 

[Curious Hound]

U-joints?

I think he made a Fordian slip

 

[Dirtman]

I think he made a Fordian slip

I see what you did there...

 

[sgtsandman]

U-joints?

Whoops! Fixed it!

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

On a side note, let us know how it rides before and after.

The Bilsteins you're using now will accept the 4-inches of lift? Will they accept the additional down travel? Which shock P/N's are you using?

Bilstein BE52794H3 Shock Absorber https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004A640JM/?tag=959media-20

Front $49 each on Amazon.


Bilstein (24-188258) 46mm Monotube Shock Absorber https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009FU78RO/?tag=959media-20

Rear, 79 on Amazon, but for mine for 22/ each on warehouse ??


Monotubes are... Weird. I could never figure out if I liked them or not until now.

I have them on the 88 and on the 11. The key to them is sway bars versus spring rate. Neither is good or bad, but will impact handling.

The 88 has 1750 springs front, moog HD variable rate on the front. Rear has 1" shackle lift. Ttb front with missing bushings on one side running 31s ☠ yes I know I'm dumb.

Were a good move. Truck was bouncy with twin tubes. Never figured out why. Guessing just not enough shock for the spring. Bilstein 4600 front, 5400s rear. Dual front B2 sway bars, one front one rear of front axle, B2 bar with extended links rear.

Very stiff ride, you feel everything. And it's awesome. Truck is very sure footed now, feels very balanced on highway moves at 70+. Top-heavy, but I blame the cap. Much better than twin tubes.

Same deal with the 11, but much bigger before and after. Replaced front 31mm bar and links with moog poly, installed a B2 2wd rear on 276mm links. Bilstein monos front and rear, just shy of bottom out range. Night and day new freaking truck. It's almost grippy now, but tires are bad, so no way to know for sure. If I do the next part right, and increase track width while leveling, I should be able to retain most of the road feel I have with current low center of gravity.

Or not cause I really eyeballed the math.


Bilstein 4600 series will usuay handle 2" of lift, 5400 4" of lift. They were developed for 98-07 trucks, so pre key mod means they're guaranteed to fit. Then shooting the gap with a 2011 pre key, #1 bars, and ??? leaf springs plus rc level should put me close to ride and feel of a leveled fx4 level ii.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

3/1 springs are 1250#. Yeah, your over load plates should be flat. At least mine are.

According to this I have the 1250's in mine, '96 Explorer springs put me about 1-1/2" higher.

 

[09fx4guy]

Petroleumjunkie-

I agree, the superlift kit is expensive, but depending how high you wanted to go, it's not a bad option.

I like the #1 bars so far. You can look at the spring code on the door of the truck. It should say a set of 4 letters, (11CC would be 1 bars and C leaf springs, the strongest available.)

As far as I know, there is no aftermarket for torsion bars for the Ranger, granted its already 10 years old. You probably have some sag in the bars, but with that mileage, its to be expected, and why the keys are there, to allow some adjustment.

When it comes to tires, it also depends on what gear ratio you have. If you have 4.10's (like me) 31 inch tires would work fine. If you have 3.73's, 30 inch tires would probably be a little bit better. Look maybe for a set of 265/70R15, they are wider than 235/75R15. General Grabber AT2'S may be available in that size.

Keep in mind the weight of the tire as well, a few pounds can make a difference. I know that when my Grabber AT2's wear out, I may go with the Goodyear Wrangler Trailrunners.

 

[sgtsandman]

According to this I have the 1250's in mine, '96 Explorer springs put me about 1-1/2" higher.

A way to verify, other than going by what the dealership tells you (they were correct) is to check some online spring retailers like General Spring. There are three places I have book marked that offer leaf springs for Rangers.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

A way to verify, other than going by what the dealership tells you (they were correct) is to check some online spring retailers like General Spring. There are three places I have book marked that offer leaf springs for Rangers.

I looked at a set of Deavers for it this morning. But, at 800+ for a set... Not happening ?

 

[sgtsandman]

I looked at a set of Deavers for it this morning. But, at 800+ for a set... Not happening ?

These are the three I have. Much less than what you are quoting. I think the most expensive is $210 a side.

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[alwaysFlOoReD]

I have bent leafspring on a 10 ton press for a different application. And I have read on different forums where people have re-arched their springs using a press. Basically draw the arch you want on the concrete floor and then press the spring every inch or so until you get the arch you want. With some experimentation you should be able to make a stop for the handle so the pressure applied is the same every stroke.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

I have bent leafspring on a 10 ton press for a different application. And I have read on different forums where people have re-arched their springs using a press. Basically draw the arch you want on the concrete floor and then press the spring every inch or so until you get the arch you want. With some experimentation you should be able to make a stop for the handle so the pressure applied is the same every stroke.

Hua. Iays assumed I'd die some shrapnel related death if I tried that. And have been told by countless that once a spring is done, it's done. I've never believed that. Steel, while tough, is always ductile and malleable to a degree, even when tempered/spring. Then again, Hooke's law says once a spring is done, is done.



Hooke was also stupid, so who knows.

Hooke's law - Wikipedia

en.m.wikipedia.org