2003 4x4 programming

[vigness]

Looking for somebody out there that uses FORScan.

I need to enable the neutral in the 4x4 module. I can see the module when it connects and checks the modules, but it doesn't pop up when I go to the programming section.

Am I doing something wrong? Do I need to run an older version? I've downloaded the 2.0 and the .9 versions, but haven't installed / used them yet.

 

[RonD]

I did read an older article, 2017, that said they had an issue with transmission Neutral switch on an automatic
So key on engine OFF, shift to Neutral and see if you can start the engine, if not then Neutral switch(DTR sensor) is out of adjustment or broken, so Forscan can't enable Flat Tow for transfer case

 

[vigness]

Not having transmission neutral switch issues, just want to enable the neutral option in the transfer case. As shipped, the shift motor uses three out of four positions on the transfer case shift mech. 2H, 4H, and 4L. There is a N position between the 4H and 4L, but you have to enable it in the 4x4 module for flat towing. It is a multi step procedure to put the transfer case into neutral, but I guess they thought it was a safety thing back then. Hell on the 4x4s for the last few years you can enable it from the dash menu.

Worst case, I have a MK2 version of the Shifster I'm making. They don't sell the Shifster anymore, and I'm not a fan of having to crawl under the truck to put it into neutral since I will be doing it on a regular basis. Cutting a big hole to stick my hand down through won't work for me, the shift motor shaft winds up under the drivers seat slide rail. The adapter to uses a long 1/4" flex extension to bring the knob up into the cab.

 

[RonD]

If you can start the engine with column shifter in N, only then can you say you do not have a Neutral switch issue, so just do the test, its easy enough to try

This has nothing to do with flat towing, it has to do with enabling flat towing in the computer with Forscan

 

[RonD]

Here is the position "sensor" contact settings the 4x4 controller uses to determine position of transfer case and when to power the shift motor and in what direction to move it
Works the same as power window motor, 12v/ground window up, ground/12v window down

4H-4L is Neutral
The software added recognizes "open, short, short, open", as Neutral and then turns on the added "Neutral light"
You could build/hijack an electric shifter with 4 LEDs and motor control switch


I like the idea of the mechanical/manual shifter better
Behemoth makes an electric to manual conversion kit, shifter stick on the floor like manual transfer case has, but $750

Borg Warner Electric to Manual Shift Conversion Kit – Behemoth Drivetrain – Aggressive Performance

 

[vigness]

Well, my MK2 is a LOT simpler.

Pick up the shift motor gear from a junk transfer case, cut off the shift shaft with the triangular insert. Poke though your wonderful collection of 'made in Tiwan' 1/4" drive sockets for something the right O.D. Grind down the socket part of the socket, then weld them together. Add an 18" 1/4" drive flex extension from Amazon and the guts are done. For the out side, get one plastic pipe flange to put in place of the shift motor, one poly pipe to barb adapter that will hold your new adapter and pass the flex extension, in my case a 3/4"MIP x 1/2" hose barb. Get a good stiff piece of 1/2" hose and cut to the right length to bring up beside the drivers seat.

My only dilemma at this point is what to use in the cab. I have a 1/4" spinner ratchet that locks, but that wouldn't give me any options for locking it in place. So far my best thought is to duplicate the other end with the pipe to barb fitting, and either another plastic pipe flange or a cut down plastic round box, and bend a piece of 1/4" square stock like an allen wrench. That would give me something sticking out I can create a latch for.

 

[RonD]

Well, my MK2 is a LOT simpler.

Pick up the shift motor gear from a junk transfer case, cut off the shift shaft with the triangular insert. Poke though your wonderful collection of 'made in Tiwan' 1/4" drive sockets for something the right O.D. Grind down the socket part of the socket, then weld them together. Add an 18" 1/4" drive flex extension from Amazon and the guts are done. For the out side, get one plastic pipe flange to put in place of the shift motor, one poly pipe to barb adapter that will hold your new adapter and pass the flex extension, in my case a 3/4"MIP x 1/2" hose barb. Get a good stiff piece of 1/2" hose and cut to the right length to bring up beside the drivers seat.

My only dilemma at this point is what to use in the cab. I have a 1/4" spinner ratchet that locks, but that wouldn't give me any options for locking it in place. So far my best thought is to duplicate the other end with the pipe to barb fitting, and either another plastic pipe flange or a cut down plastic round box, and bend a piece of 1/4" square stock like an allen wrench. That would give me something sticking out I can create a latch for.

No idea of what you are describing but I LIKE IT

 

[vigness]

Yeah, kinda hard to describe. It's in the parts and pieces stage. Have to get a few more pieces, then put it together. I'm guessing around $50 for the whole thing, maybe $75 if I get a bit wild on parts. The 18" extension was only $11 on Amazon. That was the key part, being able to turn horizontal revolution to vertical to bring through the floor of the cab and shift it sideways to miss the seat runners. The rest is adapting to the triangular insert on the transfer case end, and some kind of handle that can be locked in place on the cab end. I could get a lot fancier if I had a 3D printer, but I don't so I make do with a hacksaw and a drill.

When I have a final version, I'll post it.

Sad part is, if the stealership didn't want a whole hour for five minutes work to toggle the option in the control module, I wouldn't be going through all this.

 

[don4331]

Supposedly, the dealer ship can't even sell it to you:

The story goes:

Ford requested the code be developed by a 3rd party sort of like Borg Warner developed the transfer case. However, unlike a transfer case, for which you need to purchase something physical, the code could just be added to the module and you were good to go. And there lies the problem - Ford was installing in more vehicles than they were paying the developers for. So, the developers took Ford to court and won. However, rather than continue to pay the developers for any instance of the code, Ford stopped installing it.​

So, it isn't in Forscan and the dealer can't install it for you*

*I don't know the limitation on code - if it expires after 19 years like a patent or is like copyright on a book which is life of author + 70 years. Even in the shortest case, it probably hasn't expired yet.

Running with the transmission in neutral to flat tow is bad idea as the transmission output shaft bearing wouldn't be getting lubricated (pump in automatic/countershaft in manual wouldn't be turning so no oil).

 

[vigness]

Yeah, trans in N doesn't work, it has to be the transfer case. Good news is that there is a N between the 4H and the 4L. You have two options in the older vehicles. Get the option flipped in the 4x4 control module, or use some sort of mechanical adapter. I have the bits to make a mechanical adapter if it comes to that, and at $100 to the dealership to do 5 minutes of programming, I just may do the mechanical. Especially since mine is one of the gray area trucks. It doesn't have the plug for the light, and looking at the 4x4 module wiring, there is nothing connected to pin 3. Even after paying them to attempt to program, it may not have the option to be programmed.

What irks me, is that on the newer vehicles, the tow flat option is part of the dash display options. Scroll to the right menu, and enable / disable it right there.

 

[RonD]

2001 - 2005 Rangers used the same 4x4CM, the part that needs the software update for Flat towing

You could check with local wrecking yards to let you know if a 2001-2005 4x4 Ranger comes in, and you could look to see if it has the towing bar hook up and Neutral Light installed, if so buy that 4x4CM

car-part.com is also a good place to look for 4x4CM

Part is "computer box not engine"
And when you click search it will ask if its the "transfer case box behind radio" which it is, in 2004/5, in kick panel 2001-2003
There will be pictures of the inside and outside of Ranger maybe you will see the tow bar hookups or the Neutral light

It wasn't a popular option, specific market, but they do get into accidents and end up in a wrecking yard

 

[vigness]

The box will be a 50-50. The reason I'm suspect is that the cab wiring harness does not have anything connected to pin 3. The 4x4 module controls the ground, so it's just a matter of tapping into the appropriate 12+ and drop an LED in between. I can snag a pin and stub of wire from something in the junk yard next time.

But the more I think about it, the more it just plain pisses me off. The dealership wasn't even sure they could do it, they have never enabled that before. I told them I had the instruction print out, and then it was 'Okay, but it's still a one hour minimum.'

 

[lunamoe]

Thanks for post info, about programms

 

[superj]

man, i just learned a lot of stuff in that read.

i like the idea of hte level you are making but maybe you an use a lever from another 4x4 vehicle and some type of shift console so its not just sticking up through the floor. maybe a jeep will have something you can use, like an older cj or early wrangler?

 

[vigness]

The problem with the lever is that it's not a side shaft rotation, it comes out the back of the transfer case parallel to the rear drive output. And of course Ford couldn't make it some standard shape, it had to be triangular with rounded corners.

I had a output gear / shaft from a bad motor all set to weld to an old socket... and proceeded to lose it somewhere. Only bright spot, on a forum for another piece of equipment, they had an access panel that also had a triangular shape. They found a metric 6 point socket that grabbed it real nice. Now that was a stationary access panel, not an activation shaft bouncing down the road. But, if it by chance matches up, I will be sure to pass it on.

In the mean time, I'll swing by the pick-n-pull and snag another output gear to cut down.