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2002 ranger 4.0L 4x4 automatic only have first gear


it-broke-again

Active Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2016
Messages
44
Transmission
Manual
I have a 2002 Ford ranger 4.0l 4x4 automatic trans and I was driving it through some trails and I got high centered. I figured all was good but then I realized i had no reverse, then I got pulled out and when I went leave I only had first gear I drove all day with no slipping or shifting problems until I got stuck and now I only have first gear and a flashing o/d off light

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Last edited:
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

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Flashing is the check engine equivalent on a trans. Did you pull the code? Is the pan intact? Probably tore out the wiring or something. Any pics / visual inspection? A newer Trans won't shift without the wiring. My guess anyways.
 
It tries to go into other gears but acts like it's in neutral for a second then goes back to first. The pan is fine. Can you pull the code with a regular obd2 scanner or do you need a special scan tool. I have a Mac taskmaster if that'd work. and I'll look through the wiring again but it looked ok at a glance

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Could be a blown separator plate?

IDK if by 2002 they fixed that issue though.
 
Don't know that scanner, I've the big oscilloscope and whatnot monster pc, but most that read data streams can get Trans codes/abs codes.

If it's not empty of fluid from a hole or physically damaged (speed sensor, etc still wired ok) and it came from the hang up, I'd guess from what it's doing that a shift selinoid went, and while normally changing those is "optimistic" at best in this situation I'd try replacing it.

But really poke around it for damage. Coolant lines, etc. all can bleed pretty bad. Transmissions also "pop" when hot and can forcefully shot most the attached out. Did you check the level?
 
I scanned for codes and got a p0733 & p0734. fluid is up to where it should be. I cleared the codes and attempted a test drive and there's is absolutely no 3rd or 4th gear, 2nd and reverse came back but were slipping, and first gear was fine. But as soon as the O/D OFF light came back on i loose everything but first gear again

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I scanned for codes and got a p0733 & p0734. fluid is up to where it should be. I cleared the codes and attempted a test drive and there's is absolutely no 3rd or 4th gear, 2nd and reverse came back but were slipping, and first gear was fine. But as soon as the O/D OFF light came back on i loose everything but first gear again

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sounds like a separator plate if this was sudden. Or your bands and clutches were marginal and they just got bad enough to cause an obvious issue. Is the fluid clean or is it gritty?
 
Not good. 740 is the hydraulic cross leak that the separator plate tends to kick, and selonids have their own codes. Looks like the clutch pack is bad/band snapped. But it's 6 to 1 rebuild time.

Sorry, that sucks...
 
Ok do you think that it would be rebuildable from my home or is there alot of specialty tools

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I have some knowledge of rebuilding transmissions but I only did it once with some help and it wasnt on a ranger but I know that trans we needed a special puller tool for one of the gear sets

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Automatic transmissions run on Pressure, reverse takes the highest pressure, 175+ PSI for Reverse.
So when automatics starts to leak pressure internally you lose Reverse first.

Yes, it does read like you have a larger internal leak so can't build up enough internal pressure.
There are test points on the outside of the trans that can be hooked up to gauges to test where the problem might be.

But from your description it would probably be a waste of money to test it.
Best bet for quick turn around would be to find a local transmission shop that will sell you a rebuilt model with your trans in exchange, so they can rebuild it and sell it to the next guy that needs one.
You also need to get a new torque converter.

You could just replace the Valve Body and gasket, that can be done in the vehicle.
No special tools are needed, and it "might" fix the problem, might being the key word there.
There are many many 5R55E(or 5R44E) transmission rebuild articles out there on the internet.
Read some and see if it sounds doable for your skill set, trans is BROKE now so you certainly can hurt it :)
And it is good to learn new things
 
Most RWD transmissions need a press and the tool to push down seals, but that's about it. The real help is the service booklet for the transmission they put out. Walks through it all. Haven't done that one though. But I've done newer and it stayed pretty much like the hydroglides I'm used too
 
So do you mean all I should need is a seal installer and a hydraulic press

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Automatic transmissions run on Pressure, reverse takes the highest pressure, 175+ PSI for Reverse.
So when automatics starts to leak pressure internally you lose Reverse first.

Yes, it does read like you have a larger internal leak so can't build up enough internal pressure.
There are test points on the outside of the trans that can be hooked up to gauges to test where the problem might be.

But from your description it would probably be a waste of money to test it.
Best bet for quick turn around would be to find a local transmission shop that will sell you a rebuilt model with your trans in exchange, so they can rebuild it and sell it to the next guy that needs one.
You also need to get a new torque converter.

You could just replace the Valve Body and gasket, that can be done in the vehicle.
No special tools are needed, and it "might" fix the problem, might being the key word there.
There are many many 5R55E(or 5R44E) transmission rebuild articles out there on the internet.
Read some and see if it sounds doable for your skill set, trans is BROKE now so you certainly can hurt it :)
And it is good to learn new things
Thanks this helped a lot I will probably pull it out ,open the pan, and see how it looks. if I don't see any chunks or anything else bad then I might just try a valve body and a rebuild kit I mean like you said it's already broke so what do I have to loose

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