2002 b2300 bogging out

[WelderJer]

I recently got this truck, it only has 116,000 kms on it and was well taken care of. I had a rough idle and took a look under the hood and noticed the nipple for the vacuum to the IMRC was broken. So I replaced it and the hose and it ran fine for a few weeks.

Now it will start and idle fine, and sounds good until you drive and punch the gas it will bog right down and almost stall out but wont. It sounds like a missfire while it's doing this but the check engine light isn't coming on.

I replaced the plugs, and checked the wires at night and never seen them arcing out.

I took all the sensors out and cleaned them and also with no luck on my issue.

One thing I noticed on the fuel pump, the top plastic circle where the gasket sits. One corner there is a broken piece, not sure why or how, could this be causing bad fuel pressure?

 

[RonD]

Welcome to TRS


If you accelerate slowly or are cruising at 60-70MPH are there any problems?


Throttle position sensor(TPS) took the place of the accelerator pump on a carb engine, it gave the engine an extra squirt of fuel when you accelerated.
With fuel injection the air flowing passed the MAF sensor tells computer how much fuel to add.
When you "step on the gas" the TPS voltage tells computer to add a squirt of extra fuel for acceleration, because MAF sensor will lag behind a bit.
So struggling with quick acceleration could be computer not getting the "heads up" from TPS.
Slow acceleration could be done with MAF sensor only.

TPS is easy to test.
Top wire 5 volts with key on
center wire .69 to .99 volts, under 1 volt with throttle closed

Center wire voltage should go up as throttle opens, should be nice and steady rise to above 4.5 volts at wide open.
Computer uses this center wire voltage for deciding how much extra fuel to add for acceleration

Use a sewing needle to pierce center wire and test voltage that way, key needs to be on but engine off.

If engine idle when warm is above 800rpm then you could have a vacuum leak which could cause similar symptoms.

Low fuel pressure, maybe, but would also expect engine to struggle at higher MPH, the above 60mph when fuel demand is high.


And from your description it sound like the ring nut on the gas tank has a broken piece, no that wouldn't effect fuel pressure, if there was an air leak in the gas tank you would get an EVAP code, an emissions code, but wouldn't effect operation of engine.

 

[WelderJer]

Thanks Ron I will have to check in the morning, I ran out of light. I just went over all my ground connections and changed my fuel filter with no change. I mainly did the grounds because my drl lights will pulse if I don't turn my lights on. I figure it's the drl module. I think I seen it behind the front bumper on drivers side.

What happens. It runs fine until I get the engine warmed up, then it starts sputtering if I touch the gas at all now. It even stalled once on a 2km drive down my road. Also if I pull over and put the truck in neutral it will Rev without hesitation.

I may just swap the 3.0 from my parts truck into it lol.. I know that one works fine

 

[RonD]

That's reads more like MAF sensor issue, after engine is warmed up unplug the MAF sensor, computer will run air:fuel mix from mix tables in memory instead of relying on MAF data.

Cold engine uses much more fuel than warm engine, computer runs "Choke mode" when cold, a much Richer fuel mix, so fuel pressure issue would be noticed more with cold engine

 

[WelderJer]

I checked my tps it is .8 closed and steady up to 4.7 wide open. I also switched out my maf sensor with another off the 3.0 v6 ranger in my yard since it has the same model number and never made a difference.

 

[RonD]

I would back track a bit and make sure IMRC is working.

 

[WelderJer]

I dropped the tank on it today and pulled the fuel pump out and it was as dirty as a $50 dollar whore. Which was from that chip on the top of my fuel pump that keeps the seal tight. I cleaned the tank and swapped out the fuel pump with the one from my 3.0 and she runs like a top now!

I also took the fuel line off from the fuel rail and disconnected the lines at the filter and took the air hose and blew all the old crap out. Then put 300ml of methylhidrate in the tank incase that let any water vapour in

 

[RonD]

Good work

But if top of tank was open you should have gotten an EVAP code about pressure, tank needs to be sealed for EVAP to work, which is why a loose or missing gas cap will set EVAP code

 

[WelderJer]

Yeah I'm not sure why it never set a code off, either way I am happy, I put about 100km on since the fix and it seems to be running better than before with better fuel mileage.