2002 3.0 Edge List of various problems I'm having

[EMTMike]

To start off I have searched a lot through the forums and found some helpful stuff but so far nothing has worked. My 4 main problems are...
1. Pinging under load, low power when going uphill or accelerating.
2. Oil pressure gauge "loses pressure" after long freeway drives or hot days. Meaning when I get off the freeway I get a rough idle and the oil pressure bounces up and down.
3. Squeaking noise upon start up (already replaced CPS and Belt)
4. In order to start it I have to turn the key into on pos, then off, then on, then off then start it. If I don't it will turn over for a while before rough starting. I'm assuming its a computer problem or the fuel lines not being primed or having pressure. It happens a lot when I drive it somewhere and then get back into it and start it again later.

I have already replaced fuel filter, coil pack, plugs, wires, used seafoam, higher octane gas, fuel injector cleaner and MAF cleaner, but still have same problems.

 

[NIPs]

sounds like u lost ur piston rings i would perform a compression test and that would be able to tell u alot, curious how many miles on the engine, a couple things to check, check both cats by tapping on the them, if it rattles then ur cats r no good, also if ur rough idle u could be misfiring alot of this stuff im about to tell ur gona need a 2nd person, if u have an infared temp, have some1 hold the engine at 2k rmp for a period of time and while they are doing that go along with a temp gun and chk the exhuast ports, ull notice say 3 cylinders might be 500 degrees, then ull c 1 or 2 cylinders if u are missfirng abt 100 or more degrees lower, but do the compression test and when u pull out the plugs pay attention how they look, black plugs is rich or oil fouled, white or clean is coolant, brown or tan is lean or extreme heat, smell them too

 

[EMTMike]

132,XXX Miles

 

[EMTMike]

As far as the piston rings being blown wouldn't I have white exhaust smoke, would have failed smog, or have blow by?

 

[NIPs]

no u wouldnt entirly have white smoke, and u might be at the beging of the blowby stages, 130k is pretty low, but it also depends on how u drive it to

 

[NIPs]

3 of cylinders had a 175psi and and number 4 had less than 150psi, going thru and checking

 

[NIPs]

none of my rings white smoked ever, also chck ur fuel pump run a preasure test on the fuel pump

 

[Tractor Dan]

Did you replace the belt tensioner when you done the belt? They are known to squeal and make noise. My 97 i had squealed like a stuck pig on start up. Just a thought.

 

[Froggmann]

Pull codes. Is the truck Flex-Fuel? If so, run a couple tanks of E-85 through it. E-85 puts seafoam and any off-the-shelf injector cleaner to shame. It'll clean the fuel system like no other and clean the combustion chambers as well.

At 135k that engine is just getting broke in.

 

[RonD]

To start off I have searched a lot through the forums and found some helpful stuff but so far nothing has worked. My 4 main problems are...
1. Pinging under load, low power when going uphill or accelerating.
2. Oil pressure gauge "loses pressure" after long freeway drives or hot days. Meaning when I get off the freeway I get a rough idle and the oil pressure bounces up and down.
3. Squeaking noise upon start up (already replaced CPS and Belt)
4. In order to start it I have to turn the key into on pos, then off, then on, then off then start it. If I don't it will turn over for a while before rough starting. I'm assuming its a computer problem or the fuel lines not being primed or having pressure. It happens a lot when I drive it somewhere and then get back into it and start it again later.

I have already replaced fuel filter, coil pack, plugs, wires, used seafoam, higher octane gas, fuel injector cleaner and MAF cleaner, but still have same problems.

Pinging is the sound of pre-detonation, the air/fuel mix is self igniting just prior to spark plug firing, the sound is the wave fronts of the two separate "explosions" meeting inside the cylinder, pinging will destroy your pistons, not "might", it WILL.
Pinging also reduces the power of the ignition of the air/fuel mix so the lack of power you feel would be part of that.

Pinging under load can be 4 things:
1. EGR valve(if so equipped) has limited flow, it is opening, but pipe or valve is partially clogged with carbon buildup.
As odd as it sounds the Exhaust gas from the EGR valve cools down the cylinders under load this lowers NOx emissions and also helps prevent pinging.

2. Fuel pressure is lower than normal this can cause a lean air/fuel mix, a lean mix pre-ignites easier.
The fuel mix on a gas engine is always richer than the "perfect" mixture, this is to help cool the cylinders and prevent pre-detonation, the "perfect" air/fuel mix will melt the pistons, pinging noise is the beginning of that.
Your #4 symptom would lead me to believe the check valve in the fuel pump is bad.
On your year the check valve is the only "fuel pressure regulator", it prevents fuel in the fuel line to the engine from flowing backwards when fuel pump is off, check valve is also called "backflow preventer", it is not a separate part, whole fuel pump assembly needs to be changed.
Fuel pressure gauge could tell you if the fuel pressure is stable at 60-70psi while engine is running, and not dropping below 50psi when key is off.
Computer can not monitor fuel pressure, it can detect lean mix via O2 sensors but that is not always reliable as it may "look" acceptable to computer.
A lean condition can also be caused by air leaks in the intake manifold or some of the hoses connected to the intake manifold, commonly called "vacuum leaks".
With engine warmed up and idling, unplug IAC valve, if idle drops to 500 or so or engine stalls, then you probably don't have a "vacuum leak", if idle doesn't drop then you do.


3. Carbon build up in the cylinders, this holds in heat and also raises compression, so a double whammy that creates pinging.
Spark plug tips will show a black residue.
Compression test can tell you if compression is higher than would be expected.
3.0l new would be about 175psi, so yours should be lower, about 160psi.

4. Spark timing is to far advanced, since this is computer controlled it is hard to correct, I would test computer with OBD II reader, get any "history" codes that may be in memory.
CEL(check engine light) should come on with the key, then goes off after a few seconds, this is the computer running a self check, make sure you see this happening.


#2, Ford oil pressure switch is set for 5 psi, so oil pressure above 5 psi will cause "oil light" to go off.
Under 5psi will have it go on.
Flickering means it is hovering around 5psi
While this is low, the flickering could be related to idle speed dropping below 700rpm, with hot oil(thin oil) if engine is stumbling down to 500 rpm you might see oil light flickering.

#3, remove fan belt and start cold engine, Battery light will come on, that is ok, see if squeaking is gone, if so check each pulley, including idler and tensioner pulleys, one will be the source of the squeaking.

It is safe to run the cold engine for a minute or two without water pump turning, but it should only take a few seconds to notice "no squeak"

 

[stmitch]

Generally, pinging happens for one of a few reasons:

Carbon build up- The 3.0 absolutely loves to get full of carbon. Products like SeaFoam can help, but it may take more than 1 application through the intake if there was a lot of carbon built up. Did you notice any improvement after the seafoam?

A lean condition- This is typically caused by to much air, or not enough fuel entering the combustion chamber.

Too much heat in the combustion chamber- Something like burnt valves/seats or warped exhaust manifolds can create too much heat in the combustion chamber which causes the air charge to detonate prematurely.

Or engine timing could be off- this could be casued by a timing chain that has gotten overly loose and jumped a tooth, or a cam synchro that isn't properly installed.

Since your issue also involves slow starting, I'm leaning more toward a lack of fuel delivery. When you cycle the key to the on position, but don't actually start the truck do you hear the fuel pump priming?

 

[NIPs]

Im thinking a lean condition cuz by a stuck closed or not fully opening injector or possibly a fuel regulator or fuel pump failing I would again run the compression test and fuel pressure test, that will tell u a lot abt what ur engine is doing PAY ATTENTION TO WHAT UR SPARK PLUGS LOOKS LIKE WHEN U PULL THEM TO RUN THE COMPRESSION TEST

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[modelageek]

3. Squeaking noise upon start up (already replaced CPS and Belt)

Did you replace the cam syncro?

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[NIPs]

U said u ruff idle when u get off the highway, this could b caused by egr not closing

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[JP02XLT]

02 models do not have EGR, or DPFE,

I would check the PVC elbow on the back of the intake manifold for cracks, they are well known for cracking and causing vacuum leaks.

If you can unplug & plug the injectors while the truck is running, you could find the cylinder with the miss, and this causes the injector to cycle from fully closed position to open in a split second and can help to clean debri off the tips. Yes they are a pain to get too, but it can be done, gloves and long sleeves, your going to burn the crap out of your fore arm.

The issue of hard starting, repeated key on / off, is a pretty good indicator that your fuel pump / check valve is failing. Low Fuel pressure could be your rough idle issue as well.

Like was mentioned E-85 works wonders as an injector cleaner, it may take 2 full tanks but it will get it cleaned up.

Also if this is a flex fuel truck, there are plenty of complaints and poor engine performance regarding the flex fuel sensor, my truck does this time to time, I generally disconnect the negative battery cable and leave the door open for 10-15 minutes and it clears right back up.

I have never had a straight answer on the flex sensor other than it measures the density of the fuel and changes the fuel map in the ECU accordingly. It is a rather expensive sensor, $500 - $600, and too expensive to just throw at the truck to see if it fixes it.

I do not know a work around on it either, just unplugging it does not work.

JP02XLT