2000 b3000 no start

[jtjohn03]

my truck was having an issue with running under a load. It would run perfect in the drive way but the minute I took off it would start to spit and sputter put a fuel pressure gauge on it and the pump wasn't keeping up. It was a new pump and the really was good now the truck does nothing. The pump doesn't come on at all and the injectors aren't pulsing (checked with noid lights) so I put a different computer in it still nothing. Any ideas? Anyone have a pin out of the pcm thanks for the help!

 

[RonD]

2000 Ranger will use Returnless fuel system so will need 65psi at the fuel rail.
Computer should turn on fuel pump for 2 seconds when key is turned on, each time it is turned off and on.
Fuel pump will not come on again until engine is running.
There will be a Fuel Pump Relay in the engine fuse box, and a Fuel Pump Fuse.
Computer controls the Fuel Pump Relay as said above, 2 seconds on, then off until engine RPMs are above 500

Distributorless engines use a CKP(crank position) sensor located behind the crack pulley for basic spark and injector timing.
CKP sensor pulse is required or computer doesn't even know you want to start the engine, so no spark and no fuel while cranking.
If you add fuel manually to the intake, or spray some Starting Fluid into the intake then crank engine:
If it fires and then dies you still have a fuel problem.
If it just cranks with no fire then you have a spark problem.

Not sure if your 2000 3.0l has Ford PATS(passive anti-theft system) but these can cause all your problems if PATS isn't reading the key correctly, usually the anti-theft light will continue to flash if this is the case.
If anti-theft light doesn't flash at all then bulb may be burnt out.
PATS disables fuel supply, i.e. no pump and no injector pulses

 

[jtjohn03]

ok so update i got the truck to start again turns out there was i wire that i had spliced into and ran to a chassis ground (per someones suggestion) and it was causing the main pcm power fuse to blow... so i removed that wire and replaced the fuse and she runs again. so im back to my original issue of it shutting down under a hard load (driving over 35 mph or so) the fuel pump wont keep up ive double and triple checked fuses and relays all seem good is there a way to test the grounds at the pump without a power probe? really appreciate the help i need to get this truck running and sold!

 

[RonD]

Fuel pressure is dropping above 35mph???

Have you tested this or just assuming??

 

[jtjohn03]

not sure on mph but friend of mine tested it and fuel pressure drops off faster you try to go once you get in third gear even if your movin slow it drops off and you have to short shift into 2nd or else it drops to where it wont hardly run. shut it off purge the pump a couple times and takes off again

 

[jtjohn03]

also you can let it idle all day long and even sit in the driveway revving it up and itll never act up, just when your going down the road it

 

[RonD]

You have a bad fuel pump.

"new" no longer means "it works"
"new" now means "never tested"

Simple test would be to manually turn on the fuel pump and then go for a test drive, this would eliminate the computer or wiring shutting off the fuel pump during acceleration.
In the engine compartment fuse box is the Fuel Pump Relay
Turn key OFF
Pull Relay out, you will see 5 slots
If you have a volt meter or test light, test the slots, only one of the slots will have 12volts, that is the Fuel Pump Power from the fuse, it is active all the time.
That is slot 30 on all automotive relays
If you look here: http://www.reuk.co.uk/Automotive-Relays.htm
There are diagrams of relay sockets

You want to jump slot 30 and slot 87 together, you will then hear the fuel pump come on.
Go for a test drive, if your engine still stumbles then you will need to replace the pump, new or not.

Fuel pressure and flow are related but not the same.
Say your engine requires 1 pint of fuel per minute at full acceleration/load.
And only 1/4 pint per minute at idle
Say your fuel pump is bad and can only deliver 3/4 of a pint per minute

At idle pressure will be high and engine will idle and Rev fine
But when under load as demand gets above 3/4 pint per minute fuel pressure drops off fast and engine is starved for fuel.

 

[jtjohn03]

i put the wire in there as suggested and the truck ran and drove with out ever spitting or sputtering or any of that but acted like it was down on power. driving down the road if you keep it under 3200-3300rpm it feels fine but try going any higher than that any it sounds funny and doesnt move any faster???

 

[RonD]

Do you have a Volt meter to test the voltage at the relay?

There should be a WOT(wide open throttle) relay near the Fuel pump relay, these are the same part number and can be swapped.
Swap them and then test drive again, see if new relay performs the same as Jumper Wire.

It reads like the voltage at the pump might be low or the new fuel pump is drawing down voltage.
My guess is still the new fuel pump as the problem, is it a Motorcraft pump?

Also just to take it off the table remove the gas cap for the test drive, you should get a CEL(check engine light) depending on how long you drive, but a bad gas cap can cause an airlock in the tank which limits flow at high engine load.

 

[jtjohn03]

just out of curiosity what is the sensor on top of the fuel sending unit? could it be bad?

 

[jtjohn03]

also i dont see a WOT relay in the diagram and yes i have a multimeter but not real sure how to work them. i used it to check resistance on my grounds and they were good but idk about the power side

 

[jtjohn03]

anybody know what the amps should read at the pump when its running?