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2000 4r44E Going out


Caps4x4

Member
Joined
May 3, 2008
Messages
18
City
Puyallup, WA
Vehicle Year
2000 & 1989 & 1
Transmission
Automatic
Give me some thoughts fellas, I've read about every post here, and not alot of info on the 4r44e.
Just bought a 2000 3.0 4x4 with the (I believe 4r44e) for a killer price.
I hate autos, and am looking into the 5 spd. swap.
The tranny currently hangs in 1st but will shift to 2nd given a couple of extra seconds. it slips a bit in 3rd. and when 4th kicks in above... 45-50mph the O/D light flashes. While the O/D light is flashing, the trans will not go back into 1st gear at a full stop. Truck takes off as if in 2nd. The truck has to be restarted and then it shifts ok again. I've been running on the Hwy with the O/D turned off, but its a fuel killer. I have mild compression braking in 2nd but none in manual 1st.

Is there a simple fix, like change the valve body, or do I need to have the pressure plate gasket looked at like some have suggested? IF nothing else, a list of what I'll need for the Mazda 5 spd swap would be great.

Thanx for the help all!!!

EDIT!! Computer is showing these codes

P0732 "Incorrect Gear 2 Ratio"
P1756 "Shift Solenoid 'B' Performance"
P1780 "Transmission Control switch Circuit out of Range"
P1000 " Onboard Diagnostics II monitor/drive cycle test not complete"


HELP!!!!

-Russ
Seattle, Wa
 
Last edited:
could be anything from a blown out gasket in the valve body, to debris in the VB, to a solenoid or 2 failing. First thing would be to get codes pulled. At this point you may or may not have destroyed the clutches. Be VERY gentle driving it. Return with codes and lets get started on figuring it out.
 
Can anyone give me an idea if a standard code reader from a shop will pull trans codes? Or is there a special reader required? I think I've lucked out so far as the trans. doesn't seem to shift hard, or bang as some have described.
I'll check with a shop friend of mine this weekend and find out.
 
yeah, the standard cheap ones dont do it. I had the guy at autozone tell me that they have one that will work. You could always try that.
 
Bump - Just added codes from the truck in my original post.
 
Codes from the ford manual:

P0732 2nd gear error, (cause)no 2nd gear, improper gear selection depending on failure or mode and manual lever position. Shift errors may be also due to other internal transmission concerns (stuck valves, damaged friction material)

P1756 Shift solenoid #2 function failure, (cause)mechanical or hydraulic failure of the shift solenoid, improper gear selection depending on failure mode and manual lever position.

P1780 TCS, TCS not changing states, (cause)TCS not cycled during self test. TCS circuit open or shorted, no (D) cancel when switch is cycled during KOER (key on engine running)


the solenoids may be causing some of the rest of it. Ignore the p1000 code, it calls for that every time you get another code. Just means more testing. Dont know what the transmission control switch is though, need to do some more reading. Start searching on the internet by code for these. Do a search like this: Ford P0732 Incorrect Gear 2 Ratio. I did find a few people talking that it could be a sensor issue with that internal sensor for the tranny or the rear speed/abs sensor. But I would expect an additional code for that. You can get those shift solenoids for about $25-30 each local and online. Long story short, I was having a shifting problems and put in new solenoids that seemed to solve the problem, I ended up taking those out and put the others back in and the problem returned. I will be writing this up, but I am pretty firm in my belief that between the blown valve body gaskets and failures of the solenoids are what kill these transmissions. Swapping solenoids is pretty easy and can be done upside down (meaning you on your back) in the driveway in 45-60min, add a drain plug to the pan while you have it off. It could also be debris in the valve body or a blown gasket that is letting pressure go where its not supposed to.

please do not take any of the above advise as that of an expert!
 
I've seen both of your ideas shared by others on the net. ( Ford Truck Forums) I think. I'll be going back on the road this week, but when I'm home next, I think my mech. and I will pull the bottom out of the trans. and see what we see. Otherwise, I'm going to start sourcing the parts for a 5spd swap. I can get either trans. :secret: new at cost, but the auto is 1400 and the M50D is 1200, If I need a new trans. there is no way in hell another slush box is goin back in...


Russ
 
a rebuild is a lot cheaper than a replace. I did the valve body TSB, cleaned, tq converter, clutchs, metal disks, a few bearings, larger tranny cooler for under $300. Starting into the solenoids, but think I can do all 6 at under $250. Thats a lot less than a full new tranny!
 
If we have to get into much more then tearing the VB and solenoids out... then I think the whole damn thing will come out, don't wanna spend money on a tranny that will go out in another 60k... Rather spend the cash to fix it for the long term now. But thats me...


-Russ

Anyone got a list of what I'll need to source for a 5 spd. swap should it come to it? And am I right that only a M5od outta another 3.0 will work? And if so what yrs. can I pull one from?:dntknw:

Thx all!
 

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