2-Piece to 1-Piece Driveshaft questions

[Daringo]

Hey all,

First I have a 1987 Ranger STX SuperCab 4x4 AT.

I have found a few 1-piece driveshafts out there and I have a few questions:

- The how-to article states 47" weld-to-weld, anybody know how long it is with u-joints and flanges? Bascially, boltup-to-boltup distance.

- I found a 1-piece 53 1/2 inch (flange end to flange end) that came from a 1986 Ford Ranger 4x4 XL truck, I thought 1-pieces came from 1998+ models only? Maybe this is a regular cab with long bed?

- Finally, best way to remove rivots? Ginder? Air Chisel? Drill n punch?

Thanks.

 

[Guilius]

Greetings Again!
47 weld to weld is roughly correct, but the actual distance (boltup to boltup) can vary. on my 95 ranger was 61 and 1/4. it is best to measure your own to make sure.
as for removing the rivots, you have two choices........torch them out (messy) or grind and air chisel to pop them. i assume your relocating the support crossmember the carrier bearing was located on?

as for the long one piece from the 86 ranger, i have NO idea, unless someone already swapped it in to theirs. Ford did the two piece till 97 to my knowledge

 

[Daringo]

Greetings Again!
47 weld to weld is roughly correct, but the actual distance (boltup to boltup) can vary. on my 95 ranger was 61 and 1/4. it is best to measure your own to make sure.
as for removing the rivots, you have two choices........torch them out (messy) or grind and air chisel to pop them. i assume your relocating the support crossmember the carrier bearing was located on?

as for the long one piece from the 86 ranger, i have NO idea, unless someone already swapped it in to theirs. Ford did the two piece till 97 to my knowledge

Yea thanks.. his was on a regular cab. Not gonna work. Plenty on ebay (about 15) but I am concerned about quality more than price.

Um, relocating the xmember? Uh, yea, makes sense. I did a rough measurement (kind of tough with the CB xmember in the way) and got something close to 62 1/2 - 63 inches. Seems like I'm gonna have to take a leap of faith and hope whoever wrote up the how-to knows it will fit.

 

[Guilius]

dont forget the splines can travel a bit also.
i had no issue with length getting a steel one piece (non-aluminum...BAD super thick aluminum!) from the junkyard in with 4 inches of lift and the crossmeber just trimmed out a little. well, no issue except needing to replace the Yoke on the transfer case, because the Flange was too big on every one i got. simple fix however, if you can get the flange.

 

[bcost882]

the was someone on here that just drilled and tapped new holes so the driveshaft flange would fit

 

[Daringo]

Just pulled the trigger on a steel driveshaft off of eBay. This place had 3 of them, so I had them confirm the one I got was steel. Condition = A. $40 plus $43 in shipping. I tell ya, much easier than going to the local JY!!

Keep you all posted on the progress... pics too.

 

[Guilius]

cant wait to see the results

 

[Daringo]

Hey, I popped out my Carrier Bearing Center Support rivets today in preparation for my 1-piece that is due to arrive this week. Here is a step-by-step with lots of pictures...

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=77652

More pictures to come when I change out the drive shaft this week.

 

[Guilius]

Great pics and list of tools needed. Variable speed drill is a MUST. Great progress so far!
Reminds me of mine! Fond memories!

Keep us posted when the shaft comes in, and one thing I needed to do forclearance jssues was to relocate the crossmember to the bottom of the frame and a little towards the front of the truck. Or you can use a couple washers for spacers. Doesn't need much, if any.

 

[Daringo]

So let's say when this 1-piece drive shaft gets here on Friday it is a little long or short (maybe a 1/2 in either direction)... what is the best way to adjust this? You mentioned the splines can travel a little.

Also, ordered my Spicer conversion U-joint last night, should be here today! Now that's fast. I figure the odds of the drive shaft coming with the proper ends to work with my setup are pretty slim. Might as well use the conversion joint in the mean time. And the only knock on using it was the fact that I would have to remember which part number it is - Spicer 5-134X. I will keep the package ;-)

 

[Guilius]

best way to adjust it is to bolt it to the transfer case, then push it up or pull it on to the rear Diff. the splines are made to travel as the rear diff goes up and down. a 1/2 an inch Should not be an issue for you either way, and is doable with one person, unline some projects.

 

[Daringo]

Alright, it came in today. Spent a good deal of effort removing the rear u-joint and flange yoke. The u-joint pins snapped off and got stuck in the groove... pain in the ass.

Notice how my new drive shaft is exactly the same size as my pvc measuring stick? Should fit perfect!

 

[Daringo]

Spicer 5-134X does NOT work. About 3/4 inch too long. Not sure where this info came from and what year it was referring to, but I can tell you that it will NOT work with an 87 ranger. The drive shaft on my truck is way too narrow for that thing (or rather the yoke flange distance for the u-joint).

Sigh, so now the hunt is on for a 2 1/2 spacing Yoke flange instead of the 3 " bolt spacing it came with. I just might order the same exact drive shaft and pull the flange from the transfer case side... and I'll have a spare 1-piece.

Kind of bummed this project is on hold! I might go to the local pick n pull and see if any of the mustangs have something I can work with.

Anyone need a Spicer 5-134X?

 

[Mac]

That Spicer will work if you are converting from the 1310 to the 1330. You must have the 1210 which is about 3/4" shorter. Don't know why but the ext cabs had the shorter/narrower joint.
Dave

Edit: So the flange you on your drive shaft is too narrow for that conversion joint? Think this will solve your problem and let you use that joint you bought.
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p52...310_series_flange_yoke_fits_ford_7.5_and.html

 

[Daringo]

That Spicer will work if you are converting from the 1310 to the 1330. You must have the 1210 which is about 3/4" shorter. Don't know why but the ext cabs had the shorter/narrower joint.
Dave

Edit: So the flange you on your drive shaft is too narrow for that conversion joint? Think this will solve your problem and let you use that joint you bought.
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p52...310_series_flange_yoke_fits_ford_7.5_and.html

Brother, you could not have been more accurate! It is EXACTLY 3/4" too long for my Flange Yoke.

Too funny, was about to pull the trigger on the EXACT Yoke you mentioned from Dennys, but I am now thinking, just get the 2.5 bolt spacing flange for a 1330. Then, I'll always get 1330 u joints for the front or back.

Check out:

http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p37...oke_fits_7.5_and_8.8_inch_rear_ends_smal.html

Or, it seems Spicer 2-2-949 is almost identical and that is 20 miles from my house (but can be ordered online):

http://www.drive-lines.com/catalogs/pdf/dana/J300P-2.pdf


better yet, I am going to drive 20 miles and pick up