2.9 tick/sludge - How long can the engine last and how to "nurse" it

[runrunner]

I picked up a 1990 Ranger a few weeks ago for a wallet breaking price of $750. Its a standard cab long bed 2wd XLT Lariet (Whatever that package means) with 105k. I needed some wheels as I was in the process of selling my 4runner and this one was local, ran good and looked great.

Of course it came with a catch, it ticked like mad and had expired tags. I ran it through emisions and it passed no problem.

I've read about the lifter tick and was aware that it was an issue before I bought the truck. I've tried the basics - ditched the fram filter, added some marvel mystery oil, topped off with sythetic. The tick lives on and is loud! I've put around 250 miles on it since.

This thing leaks like the Exxon Valdez too, another trait of the 2.9. I put new valve cover gaskets on as the smell and smoke was getting too me and there looks to be a nice build up of sludge in the heads. Also threw new plugs, wires, cap, and rotor on (old ones were original).

So, basically I dont want to throw a bunch of money into this truck. No rebuilds, new heads, etc. I dont really want to pull the pan either to clean the screen. Everything else on the truck is good, tranny is crisp, clutch is fine, doesnt burn oil, good oil pressure, no rust or dents, good paint and interior.

I would like to keep driving it and am wondering which route to take and how long it can last with the sludge and tick-tap. What can I do to nurse it along? Thinking of giving the Rotella T a shot. Also read about the Gunk engine flush (snake oil?).

Its not a bad little truck and would make a nice driver, but I have to be smart and not invest too much into it. Whats it worth in great running condition, $1200? Maybe...

 

[fix_or_repair_daily]

Drain a quart of oil out of the crank case, replace it with a quart of ATF, drive it for a couple hundred miles, and change the oil and filter again. The ATF has a lot of solvents in it and should dissolve some of the sludge. Or, run some Seafoam in it and then change the oil. I also wouldn't bother running synthetic in a 2.9 especially if it leaks. Regular 10-W30 or 10-W40 is all I ever ran in mine.

 

[jhammel85]

I'd just drive it as is if you don't want to put much in it. Do you know what the oil pressure really is?

As far as flushing it, you could do it but I'd be worried about it cleaning a bit too much and just making everything worse.

 

[doorgunner]

I wouldn't flush the engine either....just change the oil & filter every 3,000 mi.
(flushing/atf is a good idea....but it can also loosen a bunch of sludge up TOO FAST causing lots of problems...I de-sludged an engine & it started burning oil/smoking out the tailpipe)

 

[runrunner]

Well, I got impatiant as usual. I went to Wally World and picked up a can of Seafoam and a jug of Rotella T. I dumped in half a can of seafoam into the crankcase and drove around for a while getting her nice and toasty!

Got home and drained the oil, tried the coat hanger trick someone mentioned on here (attempt to scrape off the bottom of the pickup through the drain plug). Got some clumps out, but it probably didnt really do anything. Had some old oil and tranny fluid sitting on the shelf and dumped it in to try and wash out any remaining crap that I dislodged (again, probably didnt really work).

Started it up and guess what, still ticks. Drove around and it stopped, but I am sure it will start again. That was my last attempt so I will just bomb it around until it blows up.

Speaking of, has anyone had engine failure due to the tick, or can they run forever this way?

As far as the oil pressure goes, I dunno. Its got the full gauges and its 3/4 of the way up and stays steady. Its never dipped down that I've noticed. When I first start it up after an oil change its at 0 so I know it works and isnt stuck.

 

[2813josh]

The 2.9 in my BII ticked and ran fine for as long as it was in the truck.Running Rotella T did seem to quiet it down quite a bit.

 

[Jraymer360]

these trucks are famous for ticks. your truck will probably die because of a cracked head before it will ever die from the ticking...

 

[Sunk]

2.9s are notorious for ticking, in fact I'm pretty sure it's considered unusual if you have one that doesn't tick. Just drive it.

 

[Rowdy Fitzgerald]

So when you pulled the valve covers did you look to see if the valves were adjustable? Try adjusting them lol. Oh and I always ran cheap 5-20 and a quart of Lucas oil stabilizer. I picked up 2 mpg's by doing that in my 2.9's

 

[Rowdy Fitzgerald]

Oh and it would make the ticking go away in my engines until I abused them and ran it over 4500 rpms for more than 5 sec. It seemed to happen a lot when I was muddin if you could imagine that lol

 

[runrunner]

So when you pulled the valve covers did you look to see if the valves were adjustable? Try adjusting them lol. Oh and I always ran cheap 5-20 and a quart of Lucas oil stabilizer. I picked up 2 mpg's by doing that in my 2.9's

You cant adjust them, they are hydralic. Trust me its tempting...

I had an 81 Chev with a 250 inline 6 and that thing ticked just as loud. I tried adjusting the valves on that one, no luck...

 

[straycat]

My 2.9 on my 89 BII had a faint tick and I bought it brand new in 89. Everybody I know that has or had the 2.9 told me the same thing. Several bought them new as well with a faint tick. I would not worry about it as long as you don't have any trouble with the motor starting to knock. Then worry....lol

 

[Rowdy Fitzgerald]

They're adjustable! You're supposed to let them full expand then tighten them up to a certain extent. If the adjustment stud is too far out it'll tick because the lifter won'texpand that far. Some come with adjustible rockers some don't. Idk what the years were but I adjusted mine. You're supposed to start the motor, back the stud off until it ticks then tighten it down 1/4 turn at a time until it stops ticking then go a 1/4 turn more. If you don't have the oil deflectors oil will spray everywhere.

 

[a31ford]

A thing to note:

Radiator... make DAM SURE, that the plastic end caps aren't starting to leak, a brand NEW rad is like 150 bucks.... it (and all 4 hoses) will be the BEST investment you can make.

Greg