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2.9 really hard to start


motaaa

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2008
Messages
66
Vehicle Year
1985
Transmission
Automatic
lately whenever i start my bronco ii i have to run the starter for a few seconds and keep the throttle open in order for it to start up, and even then it starts rough, goes from 200rpm up to 900 slowly. has anybody had this problem before?

& my buddy has a jeep with mustang injectors, could i do the same on the 2.9?
 
Leave the pedal alone! You only confuse the computer! Most times this hard start is caused by the fuel leaking back into the fuel tank. Try this.. turn the key to the run position to allow the pump to build pressure for 5 seconds or so and then hit the starter.
If that helps your problem is solved.
Big JIm
 
i tried that, i turn the key like 3 times to pressureize the system.

i picked up some 5.0 mustang injectors today im gonna put them in maybe my injectors just suck ass..
 
i tried that, i turn the key like 3 times to pressureize the system.

i picked up some 5.0 mustang injectors today im gonna put them in maybe my injectors just suck ass..

the mustang injectors are 19lb units, the factory ones for your ranger are 14lb. or something really close to that.

not to say that maybe you do have injectors that are not functioning correctly. but...most-times the symptoms you describe are not the fault of the injectors.

by swapping in the "stang" injectors you may in fact worsen the condition that you currently have.

the best approach is to get the codes retrieved and see what tripped & go from there.

to get the codes can be done by yourself , here is the link from TRS's own tech library (top of the page 3rd tab from the left) http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/OBD_I.html

tons of great info there
 
i see what you mean about the injectors, but in fact it was the injectors that was causing it to run rough.. i put the stang injectors in for the hell of it and it actually runs alot better. i still have rough start issues.
im gonna find a stronger fuel pump to compensate for the injectors.


as for the codes i have a friend with a fancy snap-on code reader, im not sure how that would help seeing that i removed the smog shit.. :)
 
i see what you mean about the injectors, but in fact it was the injectors that was causing it to run rough.. i put the stang injectors in for the hell of it and it actually runs alot better. i still have rough start issues.
im gonna find a stronger fuel pump to compensate for the injectors.


as for the codes i have a friend with a fancy snap-on code reader, im not sure how that would help seeing that i removed the smog shit.. :)

Glad that they helped!:icon_thumby:

so what smog "stuff" don't you have?
I'd check to see what kind of fuel pressure you have 1st...maybe you already have enough to keep up with the stang injectors. IN that case, it is something else giving you fits.


for example....you could have a faulty temp sensor (the one for the ECM), that is making the ECM send the wrong fuel & timing for start up.

might also want to check the FPR out as well.
 
I ran 19s in my cammed 2.9L on the stock fuel system and never ran out of fuel. I had to fool it to run right, but still ran rich at idle. Ended up getting a set of flow matched injectors that were the stock flow rate.

Pete
 
i took out the vacuum lines, removed stock airbox, and one vacum sensor attatched to the intake.

where is that temp sensor at?

well idling, and driving it is running a little rich, how could i go about "fooling" the ECU?
 
i took out the vacuum lines, removed stock airbox, and one vacum sensor attatched to the intake.

where is that temp sensor at?

well idling, and driving it is running a little rich, how could i go about "fooling" the ECU?

Was that vacuum sensor the MAP? If it is unhooked, this will cause a lot of problems. This has a huge impact on how the computer calculates how much fuel the engine needs.

I had a mass air setup and used a mass air signal adjuster made by IST. It would be much cheaper to fix the problem than going this route FWIW.

Pete
 
its the little black box on the top right side of the manifold, has a 3 pin connector and a small plastic vacuum line went to it.

could i put a resistor in the map,maf to "fool" it into thinking theres less air than there is?
 
That sounds like your MAP sensor - put it back in , it needs to be there.

Derek
 
its the thing in the red circle

the pic isnt my engine, found it on google..

sens.jpg
 
EGR pressure transducer, for the EGR to function correctly it needs to be there, removing the egr alone, without swapping to a non EGR computer is going to make the engine run like absolute crap.
 

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