2.9 engine miss?

[Spitfire1975]

Last night after checking codes I cleared the memory by unplugging the self test pin. After clearing the memory I unhooked the negative on the battery for close to 20 minutes. Kinda redundant, but just covering bases. Have not been able to test drive it because it is running so poorly.

TIMING: I set the base timing at 10*. The white mark the pulley is painted on the 10* position. My timing gun has the timing "advance"(?) knob on the back of it.... I am having a sick feeling that I am not timing this correctly..... I put the gun knob to zero, unplug the spout, adjust white mark to fit between the round reader-thing on the pulley. Turn the gun knob to 10* and readjust white mark between the round reader thing. AM I TIMING THIS TO 20*????????

 

[Spitfire1975]

And the coil has ground lines attached to itself. Is that ok? Or should the grounds be attached to the metal inside fender wall?

 

[Chris88GT]

I will see what my coil has for ground when I get home. If I remember right, I thought it went into a wire bundle and then grounded to the fenderwell.

I also thought of something else... Many moons ago, one of my Mustangs was running awful and pig rich. I think it ended up being the engine coolant sensor. Apparently according to its readings, it tells the engine to make adjustments in fuel/spark based on the temp. reading. I want to say it wasn't even throwing a code. Can't say for sure this was 10+ years ago.

 

[Spitfire1975]

Coolant sensor has been changed.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

is ther a pointer about two inches above the round reader your talking about that is what you use to time it set your light to zero and mark you damper at 10 degrees you want to unplug the spout and line the mark up with the pointer that is 10 degrees btdc tighten the distributor and then check it again. plug the spout in and try that i believe you way out of time. I made the same mistake i believe that round thing is for a crank position sensor not the timing. thats how my 2.8 is anyway and i never used a light with a knob either so I could be wrong on that

 

[Spitfire1975]

no freaking wonder.... Thank you. I will check in a few minutes, But that has to be the problem, at least a big part of it. I have been using the round "eyehole". GEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEZ.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Yea get it timed once it is and the spout is plugged in it should advance well over 30 at higher rpms let me know

 

[Spitfire1975]

Well I'll be damned. So....anybody out there who has been following this.....Lots of headache for being stupid. The engine was timed at roughly 50* BTDC. Wonder why it wasn't running right. NOW it is timed at a base 10*. Advances to 30*. Holds idle at 850 dead perfect. Vacuum is at 20 in hg, drops to ~14 in when I hit the throttle and restabilizes at about 21-22 in. No bouncing around. Release the throttle and the vacuum jumps to 25 in and immediately settles back at 20 in. Exhaust cleared up, there is no miss that I can tell and seems to be running beautifully. Haven't checked codes, haven't test driven.

SO IT SEEMS TO BE that, originally, I needed a tuneup and a couple of new sensors. Nothing major. Helps to time things correctly. I will see now what the mileage does for me. At least through this I know the engine is in excellent shape.

.......I'll be a damned whorey marmot......live and learn. That was just about retarded....

 

[Bronco_Chuck]

well ill be damned im suprised it ran at all at 50* BTDC. glad to hear you finaly got it.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

cool yea drive it for a few days then see if you still get the code 33 actually reset the codes you shouldn`t need to disconnect the battery give it a chance to set the new values by driving at med to high speeds then retest KOER and see how it does

 

[Spitfire1975]

Just got back from the test drive. THE GOOD NEWS: It idles better then it ever has and does not "search" for RPM. Takes off from a standstill better then it ever has. I do not have to "feather" the clutch at all. There is no engine knock or ping at all. THE BAD NEWS: There is no power. It takes a long time to accelerate and does not want to go faster than 65 mph. AND I still have that under load "miss" that started all this nonsense. SO..........maybe from this point I am looking at exhaust restriction?

 

[Spitfire1975]

Coming off the freeway I pulled to a light and it died. Started right back up. The test drive was about 25 miles. Slower backroads finishing on freeway.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

go ahead and check the codes KOEO first then KOER take it for a short spin to warm it up good first kinna sounds like a oxygen sensor or fuel pressure but i suppose it coud be a restriction in the exhaust I didnt read all your posts but guessing you checked all the sensors connectors and for vacuum leaks its funny how a temp sensor both intake air and water temp and oxygen can effect the fuel. I guess you can put your hand over the tail pipe and have someone give it gas and judge if theres a restriction and I would think it would give a oxygen code also. Have you changed the oxy sensor

 

[Spitfire1975]

FPR is fairly new and not leaking. O2 sensor is brand new. TPS is brand new. Coolant temp sensor tests good. Cleaned and tested air intake sensor - tested good. IAC looks fairly new and is clean as a whistle. Main coil resistance is ohming at 8150. All EGR has been replaced new (except pressure feedback sensor - used replacement). New cap, rotor and wires. New TFI. New distributor stator/pickup. MAP seems to be good. Fuel pressure (now that it is timed right) is 37 lbs steady. Fuel filter is new. All intake gaskets are new, all grounds seem to be good and I cannot find any vacuum leaks. Compression is 160 - ALL and vacuum readings couldn't be better. Radiator, water pump, thermostat, alternator - all new replacements about 5,000 miles ago.

Fuel pumps, cats and muffler are all old originals (I think) ~300,000 miles? maybe 200,000.

am I missing anything?

 

[Spitfire1975]

will check codes again tomorrow.