Start out with removing the computer harness after you get the ignition parts together. You need the distributor, cap adaptor, cap, rotor, module and harness. What year is his truck will determine how you wire the module. I have been running the stock coil for three years + with zero problems. Figure a day to do the wiring and a day or better to get the carb changed. I found a distributor harness from a 1984 ranger with the 2.0 and made it plug and play. I only had to splice one wire for the ignition green from the module to the coil neg terminal. Ideally if you can find a late 70s pinto, mustang II or capri with the 2.8 it will have all the parts necessary except the carb spacer. As long as you dont have to pass emissions the duraspark will bring that engine to life. You can run the stock carb and just install smaller jets until you get the right carb. When you get the new parts pull the number one plug out and stick your finger in the hole and with a socket turn the crank clockwise until you feel compression then line the timing mark to TDC. Pull the distributor and install the new distributor to where the rotor is sitting at 11 oclock. The oil pump may not line up to push the distributor all the way down so pull the rotor and click the starter while pushing down lightly until it drops all the way down, Then find TDC again and see if it is at 11 oclock. Pulling the harness is easy but time consuming. From the 8 wire connector by the coil strip the computer harness back to the alternator leaving everything connected. Then on the bulkhead in front of the passenger door remove the plastic panel and remove the computer. then unbolt the plate it goes through and pull the harness and everything into the engine bay then ju8st start disconnecting all the computer stuff back to the 8 wire connector. Leave the water temp sender 1 wire and oil pressure connected along with the alternator wires everything else goes away, you should only have to cut a couple wires at the 8 wire connector just cut them long for possible future use. You will be amazed how mush space you gain when you remove all the computer crap out of there. Connect key on hot to the coil + and red on module key on start to white on module and green from module to coil neg. The three wires from the distributor to the module are color to color if you have the harness just plug it in. The only vacuum line you need is for the distributor from the vacuum tree everything else gets plugged unless your preheater door on the air filter housing is still working keep it connected unless it is the 85 then hook it to the vacuum tree (manifold vacuum). Alot of guys here have done the conversion this is just the way I suggest because it works just fine for me. You should have a white/black stripe wire on the alternator you will find it goes to the 8 wire connector and terminates there hook that wire to the choke and it should open the choke when the engine is running. Take your time and do the research and oh yea find or make a plate to eliminate the EGR.
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