2.4L Multiair


DadsallWright2020

5+ Year Member

Joined
Mar 21, 2020
Messages
12
Points
601
City
Lenoir, NC
Vehicle Year
1985
Engine
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Manual
Total Lift
3 Inch body lift
I’ve got a 2016 Jeep Cherokee that I’ve been working on (it’s my wife’s daily) and it had burnt a valve a few weeks ago. I pulled the head, reworked it, done a valve job, changed all upper gaskets (head, valve cover, intake/exhaust manifold, VVA). After putting it all back and trying to start it the car won’t crank. I’ve been online and done some research about the VVA (Variable Valve Actuator) and some people are saying that the “brick” loses oil prime and it’s difficult to get it back. I’ve turned the car over 15 times at least with no compression (I think due to the fact that the VVA is holding the intake valves open) so I’m at a loss. Anyone got any pointers?
 
I’ve got a 2016 Jeep Cherokee that I’ve been working on (it’s my wife’s daily) and it had burnt a valve a few weeks ago. I pulled the head, reworked it, done a valve job, changed all upper gaskets (head, valve cover, intake/exhaust manifold, VVA). After putting it all back and trying to start it the car won’t crank. I’ve been online and done some research about the VVA (Variable Valve Actuator) and some people are saying that the “brick” loses oil prime and it’s difficult to get it back. I’ve turned the car over 15 times at least with no compression (I think due to the fact that the VVA is holding the intake valves open) so I’m at a loss. Anyone got any pointers?
You mean it cranks (turns over) but won't start? Follow the start proceedure in the owners manual for cars that haven't been started in a while. It's a hydraulic valve actuation system that uses engine oil for the fluid, and if it's not full of oil the intake valves don't open. You run the starter for a bit then let it rest to cool off, then try again. It should be described in the manual.
 
So, I reverted to the manual before the post for the startup procedure. When the VVA was placed on the head we didn't have the tool available (mostly because I refuse to pay $780 for a tool that puts a $670 part on) so we kind of winged it. The gentleman that I have helping me is a mechanic, but with little knowledge on these motors, so he did the best he knew how to put it on the head. After multiple attempts to start the engine, I pulled the valve cover back off to inspect the placement of the "brick", only to find that even after torquing the bolts to spec the VVA had shifted forward. This caused the actuators to sit on the valve spring retainer plates and bent all 8 of my intake valves, thus the reason why i wasn't getting any compression..
 
Aren't chryslers awesome.
 

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