2.3L fuel injection conversion

[NTkiller7000]

Hello, I have a 1988 ford ranger xlt that I'm putting back together. I've heard that the injection systems on the newer 2.3s are more efficient, since the older system (like the one on my motor) use batch fire while the 2.3s in the fox body mustangs have true multiport injection. The only problem is the fact that the 2.3 in the mustang had distributorless ignition and dual spark plugs, so I have no idea on how to merge the 2 systems together. I want to keep the head I have now, and just change the ECU and do some rewiring. Has anyone done this before, since I could use some advice on what parts I will need, and any pitfalls I might run into. Thanks.

 

[RonD]

There is some MPG improvements from batch to sequential EFI, but it will not be much.
Nothing like the improvement from carb to EFI.

sequential EFI requires a Cam Position sensor(CPS), as does distributorless(DIS), so the two kind of go hand in hand.
Not sure how you will get the CPS hooked up, but you will needed it, maybe change the Oil pump timing gear, that's what the CPS "reads".

I would change out the whole wiring harness and go DIS, just plug in one coil and ground the other wires.

But I doubt it will be worth all the effort, this is not Direct Injection, you are still spraying gas in the intake, so..........batch or sequential are almost the same.

 

[NTkiller7000]

I've done some research, and I have a good idea on how much work I'm going to do in order for this to work. The biggest problem I see here is how am I going to rig up a CPS? I saw a cps that goes where the distributor normally goes, but they wanted $600 for it. To install one like the original I need to drill a hole in the block, right? If so, that would make it not worth it. does anyone know of a good alternative for a cps?

 

[adsm08]

You can't have sequential fire without a cam sensor. In a sequential system the injector only fires right before the intake stroke. The cam sensor is how the intake stroke is determined by the computer. Without it you get a cylinder ID failure condition, and once the CID failure code sets it reverts to a batch fire strategy. I have this issue with my truck right now because I have a sequential computer and no cam sensor. Half the time it runs like crap until the CEL come on, or just stalls outright. Those are the ones when the computer guesses wrong about where cylinder one is.

Now, there is a unit in the distributor that acts as a cam sensor. That's how it knows when to fire the coil and injectors on the earlier ones, but since the signal has nothing to compare to it still can't make that stroke determination.

 

[RonD]

The CPS sensor on 1995 and later 2.3l's is attached to the block but not "in" the block.
The CPS is located just above the oil pan and just behind the Timing belt cover.
It can be removed without removing the cover.

There is a diagram I found at another site:
Google: 95-97 2.3L Ranger P0340 = Timing Belt

click on the first link, scroll down past the pictures for the diagram.

Not sure but you might have to change to the oil pump timing gear from a '95, never compared them but I would assume there are 'teeth' on the back of that gear that the CPS "reads"

But again, I don't see the benefit of doing this for the little gain you would get

 

[RonD]

Have a look at MegaSquirt

This company makes EFI conversion kits for distributor or DIS engines

Google: MegaSquirt ford 2.3l

 

[NTkiller7000]

The CPS sensor on 1995 and later 2.3l's is attached to the block but not "in" the block.
The CPS is located just above the oil pan and just behind the Timing belt cover.
It can be removed without removing the cover.

There is a diagram I found at another site:
Google: 95-97 2.3L Ranger P0340 = Timing Belt

click on the first link, scroll down past the pictures for the diagram.

Not sure but you might have to change to the oil pump timing gear from a '95, never compared them but I would assume there are 'teeth' on the back of that gear that the CPS "reads"

But again, I don't see the benefit of doing this for the little gain you would get

So does this mean I can install a CPS without drilling a hole in the block? If so, then good. I also saw that my engine (speed density injection, single plug head) only has 86 HP and the mass flow/DIS version has 105 HP. If I am not mistaken this is due to the better flowing head. I think the work and money is worth more mpg and HP, since I need to take the motor apart anyway to do some seal replacement. I was going to replace the valve guide seals and the cam seal but since I am going to be in the general vicinity I might as well put the better flowing head on. So what I am asking for is a write-up on how to convert it over from speed density/single plug to mass flow/DIS. I know it's possible but I want to know about the details too. Thanks

 

[RonD]

Have a read here:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/4cylinders.html

It would be best to find a donor vehicle with what you want because you would need to swap out the wiring and computer, along with MAF and ignition system.

If you have a good running truck now then I would think about selling it and putting the extra cash you would spend on the conversion into a later model with what you want, but that is just an opinion, not discouraging you from a build, this forum is all about the "build it and they will come" frame of mind

 

[NTkiller7000]

I did read that, and it covers the differences, but it does not cover how to convert one over. I did some looking around and found a ford mustang sitting next to a ford ranger, so I compared the motors. I noticed the head, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, ignition system, and wiring harness were all different. I am thinking about just swapping the entire motor from another car, since my brother has one I can have for $150. Comes with all the fixin's. 80,000 miles. Not a bad deal since my motor has 180,000 on the ticker, and I wouldn't have to fool around with juggling parts around until I got a combination of parts that worked. But then again would it be easier to go to a junkyard and shred apart a car or two and come home and slap it in what I have now? What do you people think? $150 and some labor swapping engines or $80-$120 and a lot more labor tearing apart junkyard cars then coming home and piecing it all together?