2.3L engine replacement

[heroftheda]

Can anyone tell me if a 2.3L from a carbureted 80' mustang (w/4-speed) can be dropped into my fuel injected 87 ranger (w/5-speed).
I blew the motor in my 87 ranger and have an opportunity to get one from an 80 mustang and have to get back to the guy in a day or two. Been trying to find out if I can use this and need to jump on this deal before someone else buys the whole car this weekend.
Basically I just want to drop it in using my intake and fuel injection setup and my existing exhaust
Any help is appreciated since this is extremely time sensitive


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[RonD]

Welcome to TRS

Yes, same basic engine, although there are differences when getting internal parts and seals, the intake ports are different, so not optimal for best flow using your intake with the passenger car head

Your 2.3l is a Lima engine, also called the Pinto engine, made in Ford's Lima, Ohio engine plant from 1974 to its final 2.5l version and end of production in 2000
History here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Pinto_engine#Lima_OHC_.28LL.29

Interchangeable parts here: http://www.mypowerblock.com/group/ford-ranger/forum/topics/ford-lima-2-3-sohc-specs

 

[heroftheda]

Welcome to TRS

Yes, same basic engine, although there are differences when getting internal parts and seals, the intake ports are different, so not optimal for best flow using your intake with the passenger car head

Your 2.3l is a Lima engine, also called the Pinto engine, made in Ford's Lima, Ohio engine plant from 1974 to its final 2.5l version and end of production in 2000
History here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Pinto_engine#Lima_OHC_.28LL.29

Interchangeable parts here: http://www.mypowerblock.com/group/ford-ranger/forum/topics/ford-lima-2-3-sohc-specs

Thanks for the info. Appreciate it.


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[heroftheda]

Welcome to TRS

Yes, same basic engine, although there are differences when getting internal parts and seals, the intake ports are different, so not optimal for best flow using your intake with the passenger car head

Your 2.3l is a Lima engine, also called the Pinto engine, made in Ford's Lima, Ohio engine plant from 1974 to its final 2.5l version and end of production in 2000
History here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Pinto_engine#Lima_OHC_.28LL.29

Interchangeable parts here: http://www.mypowerblock.com/group/ford-ranger/forum/topics/ford-lima-2-3-sohc-specs

Just wanted to make sure I interpreted this correct. I am assuming you're saying my 87 ranger head will work on the 80 mustang block and would be more optimal to use that way. Is that correct.

Notes**Also assuming my head should be good. It was the cylinder wall in #2 that gave out and I didn't

continue to run it right after it popped.


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[RonD]

Yes, using your '87 head would be optimal
Yes, it will work fine on older block

 

[heroftheda]

Very cool. Thanks!


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[tomw]

You might be told you need new head bolts, but I don't think that is necessary if you use the 80 model bolts. At some point, FoMoCo did go to TTY bolts, but not then.
You might also find the Mustang cam is a bit more aggessive, and could be a 'swap in' for a bit better performance. I do not know the lift/duration etc by year to say. It would definitely bolt in, but if you do swap, you'd also have to swap the followers and keep them in the same spot on the cam. At least I'd suggest doing that as they 'wear into' each other over time.
Both years had distributors, so you should be able to swap your 87 right into place.
Do replace the cam belt as you don't know the 'time' on the old one in the Mustang, or yours may be due for a change. Worth the $12-15 for a new one & peace of mind.
You will need a cylinder head gasket, and an intake manifold gasket if you remove your intake while doing the head swap. The exhaust manifold was not fitted with a gasket at the factory, so if you retain your head, you can retain the exhaust manifold in place without removal, so no gasket necessary.
I'd also replace the thermostat with a Stant, Motorcraft or Robertshaw, OEM quality part. No hecho in Ch*na junque. Not worth the few dollars saved, IMO. And both upper & lower radiator hoses, and make sure the heater hoses were good. Spin the water pump to check for gritty bearings, they are not expensive. New filter along with an oil change, 50/50 on coolant:antifreeze. Fill 'er up.
Take a look at your valves while you have the head off. The color of each valve should indicate condition, and the intakes should all be the same color, as should the exhaust. You can check for leaks using liquids with the head upside down. The head should hold liquid without leakage into the exhaust or intake ports. It's easier to do this now rather than later. You can remove the followers, the cam, and pull the valves if you want a good running engine. Check the valve seat and tulip seating area for uniform color and match. You can lap the valves using some compound to improve seating at little cost in time and effort, and have the chance to install new valve stem seals. Cheap work now, but costly later.

tom

 

[heroftheda]

I've already pulled the head on the 87 keeping the entire intake connected to not disrupt the injectors but I was thinking a new gasket set all around (intake, head, exhaust, water pump, oil pan at the least) just to not have to worry about it for quite a while.
Haven't heard of the water test though. Definitely a test I will try though.....thanks!


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[tomw]

I will not recommend water as the test liquid, nor gasoline. I have seen 'brake clean' fluid poured in from a can(pumped to pressurize for use). The concern is flammibility, though water won't burn as far as I know. I don't know factually, but I guess it would work. I'd be careful not to get water on the gizzards, though it should not pose a huge problem.
I don't think I'd be doing the pan gasket if it is not leaky. Nor any others. I still have the factory rocker arm, intake and rear main seal on a Vulcan @ 250k. Ranger cam cover gaskets are leakers unless you get a rubber one, or glue the gasket to the cover and head. The cork loses its resiliency, and compresses, allowing leakage.
tom

 

[heroftheda]

I will not recommend water as the test liquid, nor gasoline. I have seen 'brake clean' fluid poured in from a can(pumped to pressurize for use). The concern is flammibility, though water won't burn as far as I know. I don't know factually, but I guess it would work. I'd be careful not to get water on the gizzards, though it should not pose a huge problem.

I don't think I'd be doing the pan gasket if it is not leaky. Nor any others. I still have the factory rocker arm, intake and rear main seal on a Vulcan @ 250k. Ranger cam cover gaskets are leakers unless you get a rubber one, or glue the gasket to the cover and head. The cork loses its resiliency, and compresses, allowing leakage.

tom

I think he meant water test with the head off. I see what you're saying about the cover gasket, I will definitely be using rubber.
Thanks!



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