2.3 troubles

[Leprechaun86]

Whats up fellas i'm new to the forum and have some woes with my ranger. Its a 1989 Ranger with the 2.3L 4 cyl with a 5spd tranny. I replaced the plugs and wires. Since doing that the truck is idleing very rough and dies alot while sitting or coming to a stop. I've been doing some post searching and it seems that maybe the coil packs could be bad. I dont know. Any help would be great thanks. Oh the truck still has power and drives great once moving.

 

[Earl43P]

Cause and effect.

You did "something" when you changed the plugs and wires. (Don't get offended, it happens)

First, verify your wires are on the proper plugs.

Second, decide whether you need to pull the spark plugs and verify their gap. Also a good idea to check for a cracked insulator (the white glass part of the plug - they crack).

If you verify all is correct with your previous plugs/wires work, look real hard at your vaccum lines. They get brittle and break easily. Find the vaccum tree on the intake (make sure unused ports are capped) and follow each and every vaccum hose and connection, including to the heater plenum reservoir (torpedo-shaped thing on top of the airbox).

Also verify that the crankcase breather tube from the top of the valve cover and goes to the intake is intact, not dry-rotted, etc.

Same thing for the large tube that goes to the brake booster.

Same thing for the hose that goes to the "oil-seperator" (plastic boxes) and PCV valve.


In short, your symptoms sound like a vaccum problem, caused while working on the plug/wires (unless you somehow crossed plug wires, didn't fully seat a plug wire, etc).

You'll find it.

 

[Leprechaun86]

Just incase do you have a diagram for the plug wires since its the 8 plug head. And while I wait for a response ill check the vaccum lines and hoses you had mentioned thank you for your help.

 

[Leprechaun86]

and just for fun i pulled one of the caps of the vaccum tree and the rpms came up to about 1100 at idle but it quit runnin like shit completely. Does that still sound like a vaccum leak.

 

[feellnfroggy]

and just for fun i pulled one of the caps of the vaccum tree and the rpms came up to about 1100 at idle but it quit runnin like shit completely. Does that still sound like a vaccum leak.

sounds liek that particular vacuum line was clogged somewhere between point a and point b. other than this he covered it in the first post.

 

[Leprechaun86]

I dont know that it was clogged because its just a block off cap on the tree.

 

[shadetree]

It will "idle up" because taking the hose/cap off lets more air into the system, and the computer senses this increase and adds a little fuel, hence higher idle. Kind of like slightly opening the idle air control.

A vaccum leak usually makes for a harder cold start.

I agree that if the truck was running ok before you worked on it, and like crap now, carefully recheck your work.

Firing order is: 1-3-4-2

Coils pack:
3 1
2 4

4 2
1 3
Engine front.

shady

 

[Leprechaun86]

Thanks for the help shadetree.

 

[feellnfroggy]

I dont know that it was clogged because its just a block off cap on the tree.

then check the pther vaccum lines, unplugging it and it could mean another line isnt allowing propr vaccum flow, check the egr vaccum line, follow it to the filter(yes there is a filter on the egr) clean that and see if it helps.

 

[Bryan22]

Just a though.... did u gap the plugs? If they were really far off it would cause it to run worse.

 

[Leprechaun86]

I found the culprit. The other day it ran a little hotter than normal so i checked the coolant it was kinda low it took 3/4 of a gallon to top it off. So i figured the worse, head gasket. Turned out there was water in #4. So now im actually takin a break and figured i would update my post. This truck is a pain in the ass to work on just my opinion. Quick ? can you get rid of the EGR shit that comes of the exhaust manifold and goes over the valve cover that would give you alot more room to work in my opinoin.

 

[Mark_88]

Well, you can always get rid of it...but the E-testing might get difficult if it's supposed to be there...you're vehicle is almost 20 years old so maybe they won't mind...after it's 20 that is...my 88 hasn't been tested since I rebuilt it so I have no idea what they will allow or not...might find out in the next few weeks though...hopefully...

 

[Leprechaun86]

yeah in missouri anything 95 and older you dont have to do the congress ordered testing anymore. but my question is what would i need to plug the holes and what do i do the wiring that plugs into the egr valve itself?

 

[feellnfroggy]

used jb weld on the manifold threaded hole, used a cap from something like aerosol whip cream fill it with the jb, place it on top and let it set. (only on factory manifold, they are dime a dozen, if you do it to a headerr and decide you dont like it , its permanent) as far as up top get a piece of aluminum or flat steel drill it sand it and bolt it in place.

 

[Leprechaun86]

Hey all the help has been great so far. But now the truck is runnin like pooh again. So i double checked wires and vaccum lines and one line was cracked so i repaired. Truck still idleing crappy are there any sensors that may need to be checked? Or if anyone has anymore thoughts let me know ill try them out.