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2.3 ecoboost Thought Experiment


PetroleumJunkie412

Officially missing
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Oct 31, 2018
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7,825
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Dirtman's Basement
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1988
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Manual
My credo
Give 'yer balls a tug. Fight me.
So, I've heard and talked to a few of you about what it would take to take a junkyard ranger 2.3 duratec manual driveline and convert it to a 4x4 ecoboost manual driveline to drop back into, say, a 2011.

Or. Was 2.3 ecoboost available in 2011?
 
The 2.3 EcoBoost came out in 2015. The 2.0 came out in 2010. Both are duratec/mazda L based. Be easiest just to steal the drivetrain from a wrecked 2015+ mustang.
 
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Mt82 is convertable to 4x4 via rover parts. But the Chinese POS needs work as there were issues. Even stock 4.0 can hurt them pretty quickly....it's 23 spline and you need to go from rover pattern to 6 hole so you can likely run a Jeep t case on that.

The m5od converted is a better deal. Keeps ranger t case.

It's what I have lined up.....

Though the cyclone looks like a better deal all things considered..

Either way. There are bell adapters for both applications.

For wheeling.... bell to nv 4050.

For ripping up pavement...t56
 
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If you think about it....


Engines is goes vroom...
 
Mt82 is convertable to 4x4 via rover parts. But the Chinese POS needs work as there were issues. Even stock 4.0 can hurt them pretty quickly....it's 23 spline and you need to go from rover pattern to 6 hole so you can likely run a Jeep t case on that.

The m5od converted is a better deal. Keeps ranger t case.

It's what I have lined up.....

Though the cyclone looks like a better deal all things considered..

Either way. There are bell adapters for both applications.

For wheeling.... bell to nv 4050.

For ripping up pavement...t56
My idea to the letter on transmissions, 2.3 duratec manual trans, current 1356 T case.

I think what I'm after is what would be necessary to take a 2.3 duratec Ranger block and turn it into an ecoboost.

Turbo, intercooler, etc are assumed, as well as PCM. Guessing injectors would have to be changed as well...

Can the head be re-used? Or would I need to convert to a EB head?

Oil Pump?

There has to be more....
 
Eb head.....the blocks are different as well.

I don't have my data with me. Might be some pics in phone.
 
Holy shit there is more on this phone then i remember putting on It.
 
My impression of the 2.3 Ecoboost block is that everything was reinforced to deal with the pressures induced from forced induction. I don't have any numbers to work with but I'm betting the boost pressures are higher with the Ecoboost than the turbo charged 2.3 Duratechs. Engines not designed with forced induction in mind tend to not hold up well to forced feeding above a certain level, which is usually a low psi.
 
I have few good pics of the L I have handy at home....but this bay pick on the exhaust side will give you an idea.

The L block is essentially the same. 2.0 has a longer rod then the 2.3..... so dwell....rod ratio and valve and injection events are diverse in results. Closed deck vs open deck are variables...but lazy cam phazers will murder head gaskets and heads over 350 HP with either design..



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The v6 is a fat bastard. Block variation is high....but. The myth about the bolt patterns are not truly myths...just technically. I have fitted rwd to fwd transmissions...the doweling is different so the blocks being different is valid.

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My impression of the 2.3 Ecoboost block is that everything was reinforced to deal with the pressures induced from forced induction. I don't have any numbers to work with but I'm betting the boost pressures are higher with the Ecoboost than the turbo charged 2.3 Duratechs. Engines not designed with forced induction in mind tend to not hold up well to forced feeding above a certain level, which is usually a low psi.
Same block crank and rods.....

Naturally Aspirated Cyclone and duratech/Mazda L will take a gawd awful ass whooping. Put the boost screws to em.
 
You should appreciate that tape pj

33 footer.
 
Front drive 3.5....rear drive 2.7....and full dress 3.5 rwd....not necessarily in that order.




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