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2.3 dizzy question


86ranger4x4owner

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2010
Messages
538
Vehicle Year
1988
Transmission
Automatic
I have a 1986 2.3 ranger and on the dizzy if you take the cap off and the rotor and the metal piece underneath that with the two bolts on it theres a thing that turns and it turns freely not with the shaft doesnt it suppose to turn with the shaft and not freely?
 
noone knows what am talking about? its the thing that turns that hits the points in the dizzy.
 
Are you talking about the cam inside the dist ? If so that should be on the dist shaft and not moving unless the motor is turning.I would THINK you have electronic ignition on your ride I could be wrong tho on my 78 f 250 on the dist shaft there's a cam?? that has 8 blades on it
"8cyl" thats what triggers the ignition brain to fire.Yours being a 4 cyl should have 4 blades or "lobes if it has points" and neither should turn freely of the dist shaft. Hope this helps
 
Last edited:
Are you talking about the cam inside the dist ? If so that should be on the dist shaft and not moving unless the motor is turning.I would THINK you have electronic ignition on your ride I could be wrong tho on my 78 f 250 on the dist shaft there's a cam?? that has 8 blades on it
"8cyl" thats what triggers the ignition brain to fire.Yours being a 4 cyl should have 4 blades or "lobes if it has points" and neither should turn freely of the dist shaft. Hope this helps

yes thats exactly what am talking about but it doesnt hit anything it just turns freely without the engine running.i guess i need a new dizzy
 
roll pin

There is a roll pin that holds it on the shaft,try to pull the "vanes?" off the shaft it should come off with GENTLE prying once off remove the broken pin out of the shaft & the vanes get a new pin line up holes in the vanes & shaft & press it thru and u should be good to go.Hope this helps
 
There is a roll pin that holds it on the shaft,try to pull the "vanes?" off the shaft it should come off with GENTLE prying once off remove the broken pin out of the shaft & the vanes get a new pin line up holes in the vanes & shaft & press it thru and u should be good to go.Hope this helps

you talking about the thing above the thing that is broke?
 
This is what I asked you to check in your other thread...if the rotor is on this shaft and spins freely then it is broken as indicated by the free spin...that's what happened to mine and why I blew my muffler wide open...it would crank and gas would get into the muffler...

But, anyways, when you mentioned that it actually started and ran for a bit I thought that couldn't be the problem...the engine will not even fire (except for maybe one cylinder) if the rotor shaft is disconnected...

Can you take a pic of the problem and post it here?
 
This is what I asked you to check in your other thread...if the rotor is on this shaft and spins freely then it is broken as indicated by the free spin...that's what happened to mine and why I blew my muffler wide open...it would crank and gas would get into the muffler...

But, anyways, when you mentioned that it actually started and ran for a bit I thought that couldn't be the problem...the engine will not even fire (except for maybe one cylinder) if the rotor shaft is disconnected...

Can you take a pic of the problem and post it here?

the rotor does not turn freely.I got a new replacement distributor and it still wont run i have 40psi of gas pressure and am getting spark to all 4 plugs anyone got any ideas of what i should check next to try to get it to run?
 
plugs?

Have you taken the plugs out n checked them could b fuel soaked,leave the plug in the socket and try using a propane torch to clean n dry them.hope this helps.
 
Have you taken the plugs out n checked them could b fuel soaked,leave the plug in the socket and try using a propane torch to clean n dry them.hope this helps.

yes they are full of fuel
 
Heat

Heat them up untill the porcelain is cherry red when they cool it will turn back to white or u could go buy new 1ns but I'm cheap id try clean'n them 1st
 
Heat them up untill the porcelain is cherry red when they cool it will turn back to white or u could go buy new 1ns but I'm cheap id try clean'n them 1st

ok i think the new dizzy is messed up to.Now what am talking about is after you take the rotor button off then the metal thing that turns with the 2 bolts the there is another metal thing that the one with the bolts in it bolt to then under that is a metal piece that has four little tabs on it.It will turn with the shaft but you can still turn it with your finger and there is not a hole in it anywhere for a pin
 
This is what I asked you to check in your other thread...if the rotor is on this shaft and spins freely then it is broken as indicated by the free spin...that's what happened to mine and why I blew my muffler wide open...it would crank and gas would get into the muffler...

But, anyways, when you mentioned that it actually started and ran for a bit I thought that couldn't be the problem...the engine will not even fire (except for maybe one cylinder) if the rotor shaft is disconnected...

Can you take a pic of the problem and post it here?

How can i get a pic on here?what should i upload the pic to?
 
K

You have the tfi dist I have 1 out of a 2.9 v6 I believe the object you are talking about is a aluminum spacer the 2.9 has 1 and it also spins freely on shaft so i think your ok there the metal piece with 2 screws i ll call it the armature im thinking should have 4 slots in it the v6 has 6, Im thinking this new dist is good when you had the dist in with the cap off did u crank the motor over is the rotor turning? you said all 4 plugs were firing so im assuming it was was it a strong blue spark sorry to ask did you dry or replace the plugs? When you replaced the dist did you use the old ignition module?"grey thing on dist should say "motorcraft" It could be bad or the silicone dielectric grease could be lacking.If all these check out maybe as simple as bad gas. As 4 the pin I was thinking of the cam drive gear the pin that holds the armature on goes between the armature and shaft "my bad" on the dura spark ii dist which you dont have.If dist is turning plugs are firing the next thing id look at is the valve timing as in the timing belt if its jumped or other problem's then if that checks out pull the valve cover unplug the dist crank the motor and see if valves are opening and closing correctly without being there I can only guess of course do you have a haynes or chiltons manual for your truck?
 
You have the tfi dist I have 1 out of a 2.9 v6 I believe the object you are talking about is a aluminum spacer the 2.9 has 1 and it also spins freely on shaft so i think your ok there the metal piece with 2 screws i ll call it the armature im thinking should have 4 slots in it the v6 has 6, Im thinking this new dist is good when you had the dist in with the cap off did u crank the motor over is the rotor turning? you said all 4 plugs were firing so im assuming it was was it a strong blue spark sorry to ask did you dry or replace the plugs? When you replaced the dist did you use the old ignition module?"grey thing on dist should say "motorcraft" It could be bad or the silicone dielectric grease could be lacking.If all these check out maybe as simple as bad gas. As 4 the pin I was thinking of the cam drive gear the pin that holds the armature on goes between the armature and shaft "my bad" on the dura spark ii dist which you dont have.If dist is turning plugs are firing the next thing id look at is the valve timing as in the timing belt if its jumped or other problem's then if that checks out pull the valve cover unplug the dist crank the motor and see if valves are opening and closing correctly without being there I can only guess of course do you have a haynes or chiltons manual for your truck?

i have a haynes
 

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