2.3 cranks, won't start. DOES NOT HAVE CUT-OFF SWITCH

[PFC Laird]

Idk why it keeps doing this but my 94 2.3 starts only when it wants to. I've been told numerous times and read about the fuel pump inertia cut-off switch and my truck just doesnt seem to have one.

Correct me if i'm wrong but it's under the passenger side kickpanel under the glove box right?

today i went to start it and it started for about .5 second and then shut off and i couldnt get it to go again.

it just started the other day and i haven't changed anything since then. what else could cause this?

 

[fastpakr]

I actually don't know where it is off the top of my head, although closer to the tunnel sounds familiar. Either way, have you checked for fuel pressure when it won't start?

 

[RobbieD]

Yes, it's on the floor / firewall below the glovebox. If I recall, you can drop the hush panel under the passenger dash to get to it. There's a button on top, inside a round well; make sure it's pushed in (downward). While you're there, you can also check for power in and out, with a testlight or volt meter. On my '94, the darn fuel pump relay would stick "off" sometimes; try tapping on the relay, in the underhood box, if you're not getting power to the inertia switch.

 

[PFC Laird]

Yes, it's on the floor / firewall below the glovebox. If I recall, you can drop the hush panel under the passenger dash to get to it. There's a button on top, inside a round well; make sure it's pushed in (downward). While you're there, you can also check for power in and out, with a testlight or volt meter. On my '94, the darn fuel pump relay would stick "off" sometimes; try tapping on the relay, in the underhood box, if you're not getting power to the inertia switch.

like i said...there isn't a switch there...i had somebody (one of the many people that walk up to me and tell me about the switch) point it out to me and it's not there. but i'll try that relay.

 

[PFC Laird]

well i tried messin with the relay and nothing happened...

so i opened the kick panel up again (the guy who actually tried to show me where it is looked here)

nothing, all i find under there is this vacuum solenoid.

but...i've never been able to find a picture of the cutoff switch before, this was more closer to my transmission hump, not under the glove box.

if that's it than it's not the problem cuz the button is depressed.

 

[blisted]

That last picture is it. If the button is in you should be good.

 

[Ranger Sport Honduras]

maybe is the fuel pump then, maybe the gas filter is full of dirt, that way it makes some resistance to the gas flow, if the pump detects this it may shut off to prevent from damaging, that's what my mechanic told me once, and that's why u have to replace that filter frecuently, hope it helps

 

[BRUTUS_T_HOG]

sounds like a bad crank sensor, or a bad ignition module.

turn the key to the on position several times, if you hear the fuel pump prime every time then don't worry about the relay or inertia switch

 

[Mark_88]

Best way to rule out the inertia switch is to disconnect the wire connector and jumper it with a short piece of wire...if your problem goes away then you know it is the inertia switch...if not you can start looking at other things...like the fuel pump...ignition module...

You wouldn't be the first person to have a wonky inertia switch...

 

[Bryan22]

you should check too see if you have spark before blaming the fuel system. all you know right now is that it wont start. you need compression fuel air and fire to run a motor. start eliminating each possibility until you figure out what the motor isn't getting before looking to particulars.

 

[PFC Laird]

you know what....

i know what's wrong, thanks for the suggestions guys. i was in the middle of writing back and remembered it's done this too me before, just not since i left for deployment.

my battery for some reason gets REALLY corroded (it kinda looks like cauliflower, completely cutoff my power once) and it'll crank but won't start. i just have to clean my terminals off. i'll probably take the battery back as soon as i can.

 

[Mark_88]

Hope that works for you...my Zuki is doing something similar...it won't even crank...after swapping out the battery due to a wonky post it worked fine...this morning I had a meeting and went out to start...same thing...found out the ground terminal is loose...tightened that up and it starts...

Weird thing is that there is power when I turn the key...just no engine crank...thought it was the starter all along...but a wonky battery or posts can give you many problems...

The corrosion was so thick on my pos terminal that I had to get a file to clean off the buildup...

Let us know...always nice to see when things work out well...

 

[PFC Laird]

well i was just curious again this morning...went to start it and it cranked right up...didn't even touch the terminals. i cleaned them off for good measure but i have no idea why it does this.

 

[Mark_88]

I just read up on this and the recommended prevention method is to coat the terminals with petroleum jelly (or other grease)...or spray them with silicone spray and let them dry before connecting the cables to the battery...

I just happen to have a can of silicone spray so I'm going to try that in the morning...I've used grease on them before but the corrosion came back...probably because the battery was old and leaking...

 

[Harris]

Boys, I want to say thank you for this thread...
I just pressed a red button and jumped for joy!