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2.3 Cracked Head


DJtheGreat

New Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2009
Messages
3
Vehicle Year
1991
Transmission
Automatic
I have a 2.3 that I just pulled out of my 91 Ranger. The head is cracked on the #1 and #3 cylinder between the valve seats. I tried to find out about this issue and read somewhere that it is a common problem on the Turbo 2.3. My question is: Should I replace the head?, I don't want to replace the head for it to be a common problem and not detrimental to the engines performance if the replaced head will just crack in the same spots X amt of miles after the rebuild.
 
My old head had tiny cracks on the valve seats and the shop said they could try to grind them out or I could find another head...instead of taking a chance I just found another head...had it tested...and no cracks...

The heads usually crack on the turbo engines...but the carbed and FI suffer it much less...and if you keep your cooling system in top shape there is a much better chance the heads will last a very long time...or you could check out the aluminum heads...
 
I am just wondering if water passes behind that spot in the head. Also do all the heads crack right there? If I buy a new one, is it just going to crack as well.
 
it is rare for the naturally aspirated heads to crack, but when they do crack, they do it there, if you get a used head, it most likely won't be cracked. the turbo heads crack because of the increased combustion chamber volume (less material in the head) and increased cylinder pressure (along with the higher heat output of the engine due to putting out more power), whereas the N/A engines crack from overheating.

and on that note, look for a '89-93 head, should bolt up without changing the cam pulley or anything else, although an '89-'01 head should work (could be mistaken) but you would have to swap cam pulleys on the newer heads... on the head you get, look at the notches for the timing belt, the older were more square shaped and in '93 or '94 I think they changed to a round tooth belt that lasts longer.

I would suggest changing the lash adjusters and valve seals while you have the head off, the lash adjusters are $5-8 each and I think the seals are $15 for the set

I don't know if water passes through that area but I would suggest changing the head, if a crack has started, it will propogate (get bigger), if you have it off, it's easier doing the job once instead of twice
 
The 95+ heads have a little diferent water jacket setup.You won't get water to your intake manifold,not a bad thing,just takes a little longer warming up.I would use a head from 89-94 and switch every thing to round tooth setup.I,m with Scott,change the head,it will just get bigger.
 

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