2.3 automatic

[Ken N.]

My son has a 1989 with a 2.3 the tranny is shot.So we had a 200 inline 6 with a C-3. After problems trying to get it started no go. I would like to get it running again. My question is there another automatic that fits . He had a 1999 with a 4.0 had the tranny rebuilt.Everthing was shot. Tranny mechanic said rangers do not have good automatics? Is there other options. Thanks Ken

 

[Mark_88]

Get an M5OD manual tranny from any Ranger between 88 and 2000 and it should bolt right up...just have to throw in a pilot bearing and add the clutch pedal to the pedal assembly (I went from a 2.9 auto to a 2.3 manual the same way) and remove the clutch master cylinder cover from the firewall then bolt it on...connect it to the pedal and you're done (almost).

You might want to change out the slave cylinder before installing the transmission and check that the quick disconnect fitting is working properly. Bleeding the clutch is pretty simple if you follow the basic steps and bench bleed it (or try some of the other methods members have used).

The floor opening is almost the same but you may find a bit of carpet is missing after you put the manual cover plate on the hump. Get a carpet from a junk yard if possible...I think the Ranger and older Explorers are almost interchangeable for that...or check out LMC for a new carpet.

You could also do what I did and hack a piece off the back seat carpet and tape it into the hole. Mine fits pretty good but the tape has given way and every now and then I manage to almost loose it in the vacuum cleaners around here. Maybe cut it a bit bigger so it won't go into the tubes of those suckers!

 

[Ken N.]

Mark_88. I have done this in older cars.So this is a straight foward swap? What about electronics or fuel injection nothing to do there? Thanks Ken

 

[Mark_88]

Nothing that I'm aware of. They are pretty much independent of each other. I put a 2.3 from an automatic into my Ranger (OK, I had someone do it for me) and they mated the 2.3 from the auto to my M5OD transmission and replaced the slave for me while they were in there (I think they did but not sure).

The mechanic said "no problem, just needed a pilot bearing"...he did not, however, install my starter properly and it literally fell out in my hands when I went to see what was wrong with it. Reinstalled it myself and started right up. May need to check the starter to see if they work with both types of transmissions...on other engines they do NOT work...apparently.

I will say that I went from Fuel Injection to a carb on that motor as my original truck was standard and had the carb already. That's why I say not that I'm aware of.

If anything there would be less to worry about with a manual transmission...no cooling lines, no vacuum lines...just the speedometer cable...so be sure you get one to match your transmission...but there may be a way to adapt that even or the one you have may work with the manual tranny.

You can prefit the speedometer cable before installing the transmission. May have to pull the dash pod out of the truck for that but it is easy enough to do...just having all the parts and know they work before putting things together helps a great deal.

 

[4b316]

It sounds like you just put a engine in out of a auto truck,is that so?Cross member has to be changed,computors are different,different dash gauge pod,you have to pull most of the dash to change clutch pedal,radiator is different,these are just things off the top of my head,sure they are some more.I would have my auto rebuilt or a well known used one with a warranty.I know a couple guys that have well over 200 on their autos with no problem.

 

[Ken N.]

4b316, We tried the inline 6 and decieded against it. We would like to put the original 2.3 back in the truck.Maybe changing to a 5sp. So does that involve all the electrial changes? As said before I have changed an auto to a three speed before on older cars and trucks. I do not work on fuel injection, computers so if this change involves computes, gague pods I will scap it! The mechanical part is ok.Thanks Again Ken

 

[Mark_88]

I don't think it's that complicated...but, again, my truck doesn't use a computer...I know the pedals are pretty easy on first gens and only require taking off the cotter pin that holds the shaft in place...the pods usually pop out after removing the retaining screws and the rads don't really matter as long as the upper and lower hose connections are in the same place.

The computer may need to be swapped out but I don't think it matters on these engines...and they are not that hard to swap in or out...just like a hard disk on a desktop...pull the connector, insert the new unit in the connector, and put the kick panel back in place...maybe two or three screws involved.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I think it's doable, especially if you have done similar before. If the motor is efi, the wiring would be minimal if any, put in a neutral safety switch and delete the automatic's equivalent, and maybe swap the ecu as there may be idle issues. There are lots of knowledgeable people on here that can help, and there is myself and Mark_88 too if needed

Richard

 

[4b316]

I,m pretty sure he has the aluminum pedal setup in the 89 and you have to drop the steering column and other pieces to get to it if it is.I guess I was thinking the auto was going in a manual truck so no,you won't have to change the rad.to use the manual.You still might have to change cross members and if the letters don't bother you on the pod,you can leave it.The ECM will be ok going that way.I need to pay more attention to what I read

 

[adsm08]

The 5-speed swap is fairly straight forward.

As far as electrical/electronics, you need to take the Park/nuetral wires on the auto harness and solder them together to close the circuit, and the wires for the reverse sensor need to be taken and connected to the reverse sensor.

The computer should be changed but it is not 100% necessary. Auto computer and manual trans will have a check engine light because the converter lockup circuit is missing, and it may run a bit funny since the idle strategy is a little different, but it will run and should be perfectly drivable. A manual trans computer also will generally have a bit more aggressive tune to it.


The A4LD, FM145, and M5OD are all the same length, so the trans crossmember will already be in the correct position. Even when dealing with an FM145 the holes are already there, you just have to pop 6 rivets and move the ears.

 

[Ken N.]

Thanks so much for the help! This truck is just an in town truck for a little haulin and to work and back. Five miles on way. So the sp swap may be good. Thanks Ken

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

NP. If you have questions it's probably best to start a new thread. I don't know about others but I don't re-visit a thread too often.
Good luck,

Richard