Sure, just THROW parts at it without a diagnosis!
That temp sender can be ohmed out, then heated/cooled while watching the ohms change accordingly.
Here's something to help diagnose for free:
Turn the key to Run, don't crank the starter but listen to the fuel pump run for 2 seconds. Turn key to OFF. Repeat this "priming" procedure 2 or 3 times, then crank it and let it idle.
If that works, continue to do that (as many times as needed, usually prime 2x and go). When you have the energy, time and $$, remove the bed and replace the fuel pump. It's checkvalve is probably sticking open.
If you really must throw a part at this, try a fuel filter. Sometimes their fittings seep and let the pressure bleed off.
There is also "some" possibility that the fuel pressure regulator is bad or that an injector is sticking open. Looking at each spark plug may tell you which injector it is (read each plug: brown, black and oily, white, grey, etc).
Whichever it is, PRIMING the fuel system before each start should mask the problem till you figure out what to fix. My money is on the fuel pump.
If you buy a manual for your truck, it has all kinds of information in it to help you diagnose. The later models; (93+) Haynes manual gives a value of 40,000 ohms for the ECT at 50-65 degrees and 3,000 ohms at 180-220 degrees. Read it cold, then warm the engine and watch the resistance drop.