1st gen 31"

What lift should I do for 31s? (please read thread first) Thanks


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Even with a 3" body lift and 6" suspension you wont be able to clear 35's if you want to be able to flex. If you look at this truck, he wouldn't be able to flex without tearing into the fenders.

Oh come on... I ran 36's with a 6" lift. Never rubbed on the body. Just come to terms with it and cut the fenders, these trucks are disposable and parts are a dime a dozen. :rolleyes:
 
Thanks reaper79 that really does help. I'm not sure if i'm going to do a 2" suspension lift or a 3" bodylift. what does everyone think i should do. their is a pic. of what i want it to be somewhere in here and i think doin' the body lift is more in the way of gettin where i'm goin. but what do ya'll think?
 
here is my 88 stx with 31's and they rubbed with 2 people in the truck on corners or 1 person if i hit a bump hard enough

1st gen 31"


1st gen 31"
 
I voted towards the body lift because it will not only be cheaper, but because your not going to need the increased suspension just for mudding. Also, I never liked a suspension lift less than 4 inches.
 
Ya but dont forget that he is running a 2wd. I know you said your just gonna play in the mud. Find some F100 spring for the front and wreaking yard stock blocks for the rear. will be stiff in front. And i really think it would be a lot cheaper than a body lift. you can make your own body lift or buy one.

With doing the body lift you will need to extend a few things. plus you need to lift your bumpers to fill in the gap.
 
I voted suspension lift, just as I mentioned earlier. I agree with reaper79, if you want to get out ultra cheap, and don't mind no flex, get the f150 springs, and some junkyard blocks. The best reason I could give you for the suspension over body lift, is with a suspension lift you're gonna get the belly that much more out of the mud. If you put a body lift on, the belly is going to be dragging, possibly getting you stuck easier than if you had a suspension lift.
 
And i really think it would be a lot cheaper than a body lift. you can make your own body lift

No offense here.. but what the hell?
:icon_confused: Your saying that a suspension lift is cheaper than a body lift, but you can also MAKE your own, so buying a suspension lift is cheaper than something you make? What the hell are you expecting him to make it out of, gold?

Usually when I've made something myself its turned out one hell of alot cheaper than the alternative. All he would have to do is pick up some pipe and washers, and then weld it together. Thats a bit cheaper than the alternative in my book.

Hell, do em both if you've got money to spend. F-150 stuff from a yard would be cheapish, but not cheaper.
 
he doesnt even have to get the F150 springs. He could pick up a set of spring spacers. I dont know where he is from but i live in Clackamas, OR and i can get a set of 2" spring spacers for about 30 bucks, and the factory 4x4 ranger blocks from upull it for about 10 bucks. or i can buy a new set of 2" blocks from auto zone for about 20 bucks.

That would be a cheap suspension lift. and yes it will get the frame higher and with biger tires it will be even higher.

Yes you can buy pipe and washers for the body lift but it will cost a little more. I bought pipe to lift the bed of my girlfriends toyota and it ran about 35 bucks just to do the back. but that was pipe, washers, nuts & bolts. So it might run you about 70-80 bucks to do the body lift. ( I got the stuff from Home Depot) but for that price you can pick up a 3" body lift on ebay for 100 and it has every thing you need to do it. Like the brackets for the bumpers and bracket for the shifter.

If i were you i would go with the cheap suspension lift, Like i showed you, you can run 31's on a stock 4x4 1st gen. and if you have the money you should then do the body lift.

But thats just me.

Hope everything works out for ya.....and i wanna see some pics..some before and after.....

:icon_hornsup:
 
I dont know if you know about JC Whitney, but they got a lot of good cheap stuff.

here is a link for a 2" Coil spacer. it is $9.99 each
http://www.jcwhitney.com/COIL-SPRIN...5889_N_111+1986+200728676+600003409_10101.jcw

here is a link for a 3" body lift. It is $94.99
http://www.jcwhitney.com/Lift-Kits/GP_2005819_N_111+1986+200728676+600003409_10101.jcw

Here is a link for a Adjustable Rear Shackle Bars. It is $14.99
http://www.autozone.com/R,NONAPP491...uctDetail/shopping/accessoryProductDetail.htm


Hope this helps
 
he doesnt even have to get the F150 springs. He could pick up a set of spring spacers. I dont know where he is from but i live in Clackamas, OR and i can get a set of 2" spring spacers for about 30 bucks, and the factory 4x4 ranger blocks from upull it for about 10 bucks. or i can buy a new set of 2" blocks from auto zone for about 20 bucks.

That would be a cheap suspension lift. and yes it will get the frame higher and with biger tires it will be even higher.

Yes you can buy pipe and washers for the body lift but it will cost a little more. I bought pipe to lift the bed of my girlfriends toyota and it ran about 35 bucks just to do the back. but that was pipe, washers, nuts & bolts. So it might run you about 70-80 bucks to do the body lift. ( I got the stuff from Home Depot) but for that price you can pick up a 3" body lift on ebay for 100 and it has every thing you need to do it. Like the brackets for the bumpers and bracket for the shifter.

If i were you i would go with the cheap suspension lift, Like i showed you, you can run 31's on a stock 4x4 1st gen. and if you have the money you should then do the body lift.

But thats just me.

Hope everything works out for ya.....and i wanna see some pics..some before and after.....

:icon_hornsup:
A lot of bad information in the above post.

2" coil spacers are junk. If you are wanting to lift a suspension, go with 2" lift coils. The coil spacers give out and weaken and are prone to tearing. You can't get them for $30 either; the cheapest is on eBay for $65 + shipping.

Not to mention that 31's wont fit on a Gen 1 Ranger/BII. Like I have said, I tried putting a set of A/T's on my STOCK, non sagged fron suspension on the BII and the tires hit the fenders when turning. The only way to get 31's to fit on the truck stock is to cut the fenders.
 
Not to mention that 31's wont fit on a Gen 1 Ranger/BII. Like I have said, I tried putting a set of A/T's on my STOCK, non sagged fron suspension on the BII and the tires hit the fenders when turning. The only way to get 31's to fit on the truck stock is to cut the fenders.

ok that just pisses the hell out of me have you not read the frickin' thread or looked at the damn poll then don't post on it also if you ain't gonna use your head i think your @$$ misses it. honestly pay attention.

sorry if my language offends anyone but thanks for the help everyone (excluding thoose who haven't bothered reading anything)
 
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ok that just pisses the hell out of me have you not read the frickin' thread or looked at the damn poll then don't post on it also if you ain't gonna use your head i think your @$$ misses it. honestly pay attention.

sorry if my language offends anyone
Hey dumb fawk, read ALL of my post. I do believe that I first told you you need 2" of lift to get 31's to fit on a Gen 1. Piss off noob. If you are going to keep that attitude up, get lost.

STX's in Gen1 ('83-'88) Rangers had a 2" FACTORY lift, so yes they will fit 31's. Gen 2 ('89-'92) has a larger fender opening, so they will fit 31's stock. Gen 3's have a COMPLETELY different fender opening; A lot of Gen 3 + ('93+) 4x4's come STOCK with 31's.

And since you have a 2wd Ranger, you will need about 4" of lift to clear 31's. A 2wd Ranger is 2" LOWER than a stock 4wd Ranger; you have to make that up in lift to clear 31's.


Here let me make it easier for you stupid..

mjones said:
The only way to get away with 31's on a stock Gen I is to do some fender cutting. You will need a minimum of 2" lift to clear the 31's.
 
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