1999 3.0l ranger wants to die when steering wheel is turned

[cp2295]

Hey All Got A 3.0L and It Wants To Die When I Turn The Steering Wheel When Im Sitting In Neutral, Also Sometimes If I Turn Hard Like Into A Parking Spot Or Something Itll Want To Die As Well.. I Have Bigger Tires Than Stock, 31x10.5X15.. If That Changes Anything

 

[UrbanRedneckKid]

That's the most f***** up issue I've heard of in a while!

Is your pump really loud?

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[cp2295]

That's the most f***** up issue I've heard of in a while!

Is your pump really loud?

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Yeah Its Pretty LOud.. But Its About The Same As Every Other Ranger. They're All Loud. The Pump Is New, Well A Few Months Old, Do You Think The Belt Is Too tight?

 

[cp2295]

Yeah Its Pretty LOud.. But Its About The Same As Every Other Ranger. They're All Loud. The Pump Is New, Well A Few Months Old, Do You Think The Belt Is Too tight?

another Thought, Mayb Its Some Sort Of Idle Sensor Issue?? Idles PRetty Good Other Than That, Right Around 750Rpms, Just When I Turn AT Idle It Significantly Drops

 

[UrbanRedneckKid]

Can't be, that's impractical, when I tensioner fails it either loosens, breaks, or locks up.

Does your truck have a pressure switch in the high pressure line? If so, maybe it's bad and not telling the sci to kick the idle up a bit...? I've only seen that once, it was on a Honda though...

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[cp2295]

Can't be, that's impractical, when I tensioner fails it either loosens, breaks, or locks up.

Does your truck have a pressure switch in the high pressure line? If so, maybe it's bad and not telling the sci to kick the idle up a bit...? I've only seen that once, it was on a Honda though...

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Where The Hell would I Find Such A Gadget? Just On The High Pressure Line Somewhere?

 

[Earl43P]

Only the 4 cylinders have a PS pressure switch.

You have an IDLE problem.

Clean or replace the IAC.
Once you remove it, look inside the ports.
See that shaft? Clean it with carb cleaner.
Leave some liquid inside, cover the ports with your palm and smack the IAC against your palm such that the plunger slides down that shaft making a thwock sound. Do it repeatedly and vigorously. Reinstall it and see if that helps.

A good test after the cleaning is to watch the idle when you turn the steering wheel. If it doesn't raise the rpms, your IAC is not working. You can tell the difference by disconnecting the IAC electrical connector and repeating that test. No change is a bad IAC or its wiring.

Lastly, look into the intake side IAC ports.
If they are clogged with carbon, clean that out.

 

[killj0y]

Man I don't know where to tell you to look except are there any stored codes? Also you mentioned you have bigger tires, do they rub at all on full lock?

 

[jhammel85]

Also, are you using the right fluid? It should be mercon / dex or mercon v.

 

[straycat]

Just take it to a shop. You are wasting time trying to figure it out posting this since none of us can look at the issue, Bro. I could be dangerous, OK?

 

[killj0y]

Just take it to a shop. You are wasting time trying to figure it out posting this since none of us can look at the issue, Bro. I could be dangerous, OK?

Everything is dangerous to you today lol.

 

[straycat]

Everything is dangerous to you today lol.

LOL...haaaa haaaa...now your getting dangerous...lol

 

[cp2295]

Now listen to this.. I cleaned the iac valve like you said, i had done this before because i suspected it was bad, but before i did it with brake cleaner and i didn't hit it on my palm or anything. so before i cleaned it i noticed the rod was pushed up.. so i hit it and cleaned it and then after that i checked to see if it moved back and forth and it did, so i put it on, i even made a new gasket for it (they don't sell them) and when i turned it on and turned the wheel the rpms didn't drop, and when i unplug the iac valve the truck dies.. so i figure it's probably working? but then i drove it around a bit and noticed whenever i put it into neutral while coasting the rpms bounced all around. and it didn't do this before i cleaned it, also when i got back and was sitting and turning the steering wheel the rpms dropped significantly again (same as before). so do you think i should just replace the sensor altogether? maybe its screwed up past the point of cleaning haha. also there are no codes, and there haven't been this whole time.

 

[cp2295]

also is the throttle position sensor a culprit possibly? I'm 99% positive it's something to do with idle/vacuum/sensors.. and the pump's got the right fluid, that one valvoline stuff in the red bottle, so i'm ruling out the pump being an issue.. it's gotta be in the sensors or something