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1998 Ranger steering issues


Buckwacka

Member
Joined
Oct 19, 2014
Messages
9
City
Mineral Ridge, Ohio
Vehicle Year
1998
Transmission
Automatic
Hi everyone!
New here and need advice.
Bought my boy a 1998 Ranger XLT 4X4 with 3.0L, for running to high school and what not.
He ran into a large rock a while back and we needed to replace A Arm, torsion bar, shock, etc.... Took it up to local shop to get front end alignment and was told can't be done. The steering wheel when turned all the way to left or right just keeps turning, doesn't stop at full turn. I was told it was a broken clockspring..??
Thoughts?
 
The "clockspring" is not the part that limits the steering, it's merely a set of electrical connectors for the horn and other buttons on the steering wheel. If it were a true clockspring, it may very well be broken, and the horn would not work, but it's more likely that it's a "pancake slip-ring" which would not be damaged by over-rotation.

If the local shop really told you that the clockspring was the reason they couldn't do the alignment, I would avoid that shop in the future, as they are either incompetent or dishonest.

I don't know a lot about the specifics of steering on the later Rangers, but the problem probably involves the steering gear. I would recommend getting a second opinion at a different shop.
 
Thanks Spott!

They also told me the rack and pinion was bad. I am not positive but am assuming that would have nothing to do with the over rotation of the steering wheel.
The rack and pinion has no external damage and is not leaking, bouncing/shudder or any real symptom that I can tell.

The horn works fine.

So, if I replace the steering gear that may solve it?
 
this is going to be difficult to diagnose over the net. if you could post a short video of where the steering shaft enters the rack and pinion when it is turned full one way and the wheel keeps turning we could perhaps see what is turning and what is not.
 
This sounds dangerous to me.
Have your son turn the steering wheel from one side to the other and you watch what is going on from outside/under the truck/hood. This how it works: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rack_and_pinion#Steering

The rack (on the rack and pinion) should be/is longer than the full travel of the steering arms, etc. What stops the steering wheel when it gets to full travel are the stops on the ends of the tie rods at the wheels. IF the steering wheel continues to turn when the steering arms are against the stops, it sounds to me like the rack is stripped at the ends. I guess if the stops were bolted on (not part of the steering arms) and were removed you could in theory run the pinion gear off the ends of the rack. I don't know how your truck is built. I believe that if you continue to try to turn the wheel (especially with power steering) when to get to the limit of tie rod and arm travel it would be possible to damage/strip the rack.

I was taught to never put a rack and pinion gear set all the way to the stops and keep pressure on it (try to turn it more once it is against the stops) because you can damage it. Rack and pinion sets are not near as bullet proof as the old recirculating ball systems used from the time of the model T until the late 80s/early 90s. They came into use because they give better feel and control at higher speeds.
 
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https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=760757577322812&id=100001657312538

I don't know if that's enough for a diagnoses but that's where we're at. Being a 4x4, I really can't get to the rack where the steering shaft enters it.

The steering wheel just keeps turning like if there were a shear pin that is broken. Also, when I shut the truck off the steering wheel does not lock, it'll just turn.

I don't believe the gears are stripped off in the rack, the pinion seems to be responding as soon as it is turned the opposite way.

enjr44, I have noticed when my boy backs out of the driveway, into the street, he does turn the wheels very hard and all the way to the stopping point! Plus this truck has 16" tires and rims from an explorer and I've told him many times don't turn so sharply.

What do you think?
 
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Wow that seems pretty bad. Id say the rack and maybe the column too are damaged. The ranger should be equipped with a collapsible steering column if he impacted the rock hard enough it may have damaged it. Also has it always had the power steering whine, is it leaking fluid anywhere?
 
Yeah Crockus it's been whining quite a while. Oldest son wrecked it in Morgantown, WV and tore the drivers side tire clean off, back before Christmas. He hit ice and ran along a guardrail which caught the rim and pulled the tire and rim off. Replaced basically the exact same things as the youngest boys recent wreck, except for the opposite side and the rack.
I'll post a pic of the WV incident when I figure how to insert image.

Fluid stays up in reservoir however last time I checked it, it was frothy light color. I don't ever see any drips on the ground.

The rack was changed after the last wreck my oldest had but it was a yard rack.

This ranger been through hell and back. All started when my oldest boy didn't check the oil and ran it dry on the freeway. Starting to be a money pit but I can't stop now...
 
Buckawacka:

What I can't tell from your video: When tire gets to max travel, and you steer some more; does the shaft in the engine compartment continue to rotate or not?

If shaft is rotating; then it is just a rack problem. If shaft isn't rotating, you have a column issue and until that is fixed, we won't know if you have a rack problem as well.

Not sure I am helping....
 
At max rotation the shaft stops turning but the steering wheel continues. It'll just keep turning.
Every answer helps, believe me!!!
 
Don't drive it until the column has been swapped :)

If steering wheel is turning, but shaft isn't, it means something is stripped/shear pin broke in column and if you needed to turn suddenly, turning the steering wheel might not turn the shaft...

I assume you can swap the column. With tires straight ahead, disconnect airbag fuse. Then, you need to pull the dash apart under the column, disconnect a couple electrical wires, disconnect the shaft in the engine compartment, and then you can unbolt the column and pull it out into cab.

When you get the new column, either get one with key :) or get the VIN so you can get key made.
 
I will bet the steering wheel is stripped where it goes on the shaft. Disarm the bag and remove it. Get a manual if you don't know how, it isn't hard, just picky.

And, just to be a wise ass, I think your boys need a tank!!
 
IMG_0520.jpg

WV incident.

don4331, Going to call around tomorrow and try to locate column! Thanks for reminding me about the key...

enjr44, LOL....Ford's are tanks!!! This one's still ticking after all this! I remember being rough with my first vehicle (not this bad though). I got a Haynes manual.

Never done this before! Hopefully it's not as bad as it looks. I will disarm the airbag first!!

Wifey keeps telling me to junk it cause we keep throwing money at it. I tell her better this take a beating than having a monthly payment and beatings.

Appreciate all the input guys.
 
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