1997 turbo install {help}

[RebelRanger97]

Heres the deal. I have a turbo motor That I want to put in my 97 ranger . Which head should I use . I was going to use the 97 head because of the fuel injection differences will this work? or is there a way to make the turbo head work?I am going to have the front of the turbo block drilled and tapped for the crank sensor are there any problems in doing this?I have a turbo from a 88 turbo coupe and one from a 83 turbo mustang which one should I use? Is there a way to make the 97 computer work for this or is there one I can buy that is an easy hook up? what about a boost gauge and a air fuel meter ? can I buy these?

p.s I tried this turbo thing 2 years ago but I didnt listen to you guys and I put it on a stock 2.3 . I was lucky it only broke 1 piston ...easily fixed . This time I want it to work and stay working .

thanks for whatever help you can give me

jason

 

[ILLEGALCONCEPTS]

I guess you could change the blocks out, but I don't know why. I think the everything is going to be in a different place for the front dress though. You'll need to move wires and hopefully you have the brackets that go with the turbo block. The bottom ends were the same except the pistons and maybe the rods(don't remember for sure either way on those).

You can use your 97 head and the stock computer will probably be much happier.

There was a guy here at one point, george, that was running a '91 IIRC and still was using the stock computer for 15lbs of boost. He installed the 19lbs injectors and modified the MAF for them. That's not saying a custom tune won't be better, just that it works well.

What are the turbo's you have? Make? Any readings on them? There should be numbers on the inlet and outlet IIRC that tell a few things about them. I don't know what they mean, but I could tell you mine if you really wanted to know.

Yes, you can add the A/F gauge and a boost gauge. I have my A/F gauge and a boost/vacuum gauge and have had them for 2-3 years now. I've changed my driving habits using them as a reference. They are easy to install and take more time to run the connections then anything else.

My plan, is to install the turbo pistons into my 96 block. My head is from a 95 (95-97 the same) that has been P&P and had turbo valves installed. That took some custom work since the older valve stems are thicker. I don't think you HAVE to have the turbo valves, it was just an option since I had the parts already. I have an E-6 exhaust manifold to bolt the turbo to. I may have the manifold ported as well. I will be running a 3" down pipe into a new cat. coverter, muffler and then out the side just like it is now in front of the tire. I have a garret T-3 sitting in a box ready to go that has had a little clean up done to it. I plan on running a FMIC that I got form a volvo and will be running 2 1/2" pipe for that. I am currently working with someone on building a new upper intake manifold that would "fix" a design flaw and move my inlet to that side of the engine which will make running the pipe for the IC much easier.

James

 

[TireIron]

Yes, you would be much happier with installing forged pistons into your 97 and useing the good headgasket (felpro 1035) and then bolting the turbo on with all your existing electronics and having the ecu tuned for it or getting a tuner. The EEC-V computer is nice because it can actually be flashed and programmed unlike the older EEC-IV computers. So with the right programmer or going to the right dyno shop you could either program it yourself and tune it or have a shop tune it properly once everything is hooked up and running.

 

[Davis]

you can get an sct tuner for about $400 to tune the eec-v.
definitely the best option for a newer ranger IMHO.

 

[RebelRanger97]

I modified my mass air in my first attempt which seemed to work. I also still have all the brackets for the front of the engine. I drilled my oil pan last time and put a fitting in it for the return oil which broke off when I pulled the engine out to fix it. This is one reason I'm using the turbo block it already has the return port in it.
Are the valve springs the same in the 97 head ?Which head has the better cam?Also, I thought I read on here that the turbo head was a lower compression then then the stock 97 non turbo.

Thanks for advice so far I am deffenitly going to use it.

jason

 

[ILLEGALCONCEPTS]

It's not the heads that change the compression ratio in this instance. There might be a slight change but not enough to notice. The pistons make the biggest difference in compression.

From what I've read, the Ranger cam is actually a pretty good cam to use for boosted applications. The aftermarket has some nicer ones, but the roller cams come at a pretty penny.

I believe you can have the block machined for the oil return line if you really want it there. I don't think I am going to worry about that, I'll just go into my pan.

James

 

[RebelRanger97]

The turbos I have are : A/r 63 AiResearch this is off the 83 turbo mustang .

I also have a Warner khi IhI Turbo this one is ooff the turbo coupe and is water cooled .

 

[ILLEGALCONCEPTS]

I would guess that the IhI would be better just because of it being water cooled. Plus it being the newer of the two it should have more life left in it. The turbo's can be rebuilt and you want to do it before they have too much shaft play.

James

 

[RebelRanger97]

I was looking at my 3 turbochargers tonight One is toast ,it need to be rebuilt and one is seized, however the ihi turbo is still perfect . So I'm in luck.

 

[TireIron]

Yea, the IHI is definitly one of the better factory turbos and a very good choice for that setup.

 

[RebelRanger97]

What would be a good exhaust system? sound and performance?
jason

 

[RebelRanger97]

How do I hook the boost /vacuum and the a/f up?

 

[ILLEGALCONCEPTS]

Exhaust note is subjective.. You'll have to decide on an exhaust size 2 1/2" or 3" and then piece it together from there. The turbo will muffle the exhaust some, but you will still need a muffler. The less restriction in the exhaust path, the quicker the turbo will spool. I plan on running just a regular glasspack muffler the first time I do mine. If it's too loud or ricey I will start looking for something else. Also, don't forget to get a new cat converter. Get one to match your size pipe in and out and you'll be fine. The cat only robs a few hp and doesn't make sense not to run one(decides being illegal).

My boost/vac gauge is t-ed into my FPR. I just just the line and added a t and it was that simple.

The A/F gauge, you'll need to tap into one of the wires off of the computer. I don't remember which one right now and if someone doesn't chime in with it I will go look for you.

James

 

[RebelRanger97]

Well I drilled and tapped my block for the crank sensor and I plan on using the 97 head .Is it possible to make the 88 turbo intake work on the 97 head? or is the 97 intake a better one to use ? what should I use for injector's? I also have a 94 supercoupe that I junked would the injectors from this work?

 

[ILLEGALCONCEPTS]

IIRC I don't think it'll work. I don't remember why though but I am sure I would have gone that route if it would have worked. It's easier to rotate the upper on the older style.

If using the stock computer for your truck, make sure you use high impendence injectors. I am not sure when the switch happened from low to high, but I would assume the computer needs to be adjusting the right ones.

I am using 19lbs injectors and don't plan on swapping those out unless I start to run lean. I will be upgrading my fuel pump though for a liitle insurance. Some people like to go big on injectors, while some prefer the smaller ones. I say use what works, and I know the 19lbs have worked for several people.

You drilled and tapped your block for the CPS? Why didn't you drill the newer block for the oil return? That would have been less critical. Just wondering, not bashing......

James