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1997 ranger skip


I think you are over working/thinking this Actron CP9125 thing. Go here

https://actron.com/content/obd-ii-pocketscan

and read through the downloads. There is a user's manual and several other things to read. It seems pretty easy to operate. Read the manual, go plug it in and play with it. When I first got a scanner I was all thumbs.
 
Hi All,
I had a friend over with his great code reader over the weekend. His machine pointed to a bad #4 cyl. I have a compression gage that I used in the 50s and 60s. I had to make a mod to it to check the compression. It would not fit all cyls. I added about 24" to it. All the cyls check from 70 to 75 lbs. #4 checked 0 lbs. I rechecked the #6 cyl with the gage with out the hose. It checked at 145 lbs. So the other five should be between 140 to 145 lbs. The added hose reduces the compression reading.
Now I have to take the motor out and put it on the stand to work on it.
Bob
 
Hi All,
I have a chance to buy a 1996 ranger with the 3.0 engine. Is it the same as my 1997 3.0 engine? I would like to swap the engine from the 1996 to my 1997 ranger. What do I have to change so that it would run and pass emissions in my 1997 ranger?
Thank you.
Bob
 
Hi All,
I have a chance to buy a 1996 ranger with the 3.0 engine. Is it the same as my 1997 3.0 engine? I would like to swap the engine from the 1996 to my 1997 ranger. What do I have to change so that it would run and pass emissions in my 1997 ranger?
Thank you.
Bob

AFAIK they are identical. It's the 1998+ ones that have some differences.

PS this should be a new thread?
 
Hi All,
Here is an update. I did a leak down test on #4 cyl. I didn't hear any leak in the oil filler tube. There was no air bubbles in the rad. There was air coming out of the tall pipe. I pulled the engine and removed the right bank head. This is the results of the code p0171.??? How much would it cost to do the one valve? Well I was going to post a picture of the #4 exhaust valve with a chunk out of it, put can't figure out how to post the picture.
 
How much would it cost to do the one valve? Well I was going to post a picture of the #4 exhaust valve with a chunk out of it, put can't figure out how to post the picture.

Take the head to a machine shop to have it gone through. Chunks missing from exhaust valves usually means it was not seating correctly and could not be cooled by contact with the head, so it burned that wedge out of it where it was not cooling.

If I had the engine torn that far down, I'd pull the other head and have it done too.
 
Hi to all,
Here is the latest. I took the head to the local auto machine shop. He said that the valve in question was burnt. I asked him to do a valve job on the one cyl. He said that he would not do just one cyl. He told me that at the worst, it would cost me $475. for one head. I looked on ebay and found a pair of heads completely rebuilt for $355. I have them on now and the engine is almost ready to install in the truck. I will keep you posted when I get it running (I HOPE).
 
Hi All,
I got the engine back in the truck. I put the trans in first gear so that I could rotate the rear shaft to engage the pilot shaft into the clutch. As I was installing the trans, the rear shaft rotated ok. After the trans was installed, I can't shift it. It is locked in some gear. I can start the truck and hold the clutch in. The truck seams to run ok now.
 
When you put the shifter back in the shift forks were not aligned to Neutral, the 3 slots the shift arm uses to shift gears need to be in the middle when shifter is installed.

Pull out the shifter use a screwdriver or ?? and slide the shift forks so they are lined up, and driveshaft spins freely, then reinstall shift arm.

Make sure wheels are blocked, you may need to rock the truck to release pressure on the shift fork that is currently locked in a gear.
 
Thank you RonD.
This morning I was thinking. If I stick the shifter back in at the angle that it was in first gear, it may go into position. Guess what? It worked.
Thank you for all the help.
 

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