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1997 Explorer 5.0L swap into 2000 Ranger


Mr_Lee

Member
V8 Engine Swap
Joined
Sep 6, 2018
Messages
19
City
Windham Centre, Ontario, Canada
Vehicle Year
2000
Engine
Transmission
Manual
Total Drop
5"
Tire Size
245/45zr17 & 275/40zr17
Hello, I have a 2000 Ranger XLT. I did a complete body off on it. The engine is out of a early 1997 Explorer 5.0L. I have followed the tech articles and they have been somewhat helpful. The truck will not turn over, the fuel pump does not prime and I do not get a CEL. Nor can I read codes form the ECU. I have a quarterhorse though and I did rip a bin file from my SLL4 ECU. The engine is a early 97 unit with a hall effect cam sensor, GT40 head and AA intake. I have tried bypassing my PATS B module by shorting Pins 1 & 7. If I do that the engine cranks with the key set to run. I believe I need to repin my C115 42pin connector that connects the engine to the body. The NSS is looped and the alternator is wired in as well. Im using a TR-3550 transmission, The truck was a automatic as well and has been swapped to manual. Any advice or input would be appreciated.
 
So I did up an excel file and it appears that on the 42 pin connected in addition to the repin for the alternator and 42 going to ground you need the following. pin 37 ranger side need to be repined to pin 35 blank for the A/C Pressure Switch. And pin 37 need to be replaced with a power wire to power the EPROM for the ECU. Thats kinda important and would explain all my problems...
 
No dice. Anyone got the pin out for a 1997 explorer 5.0L and 2000 Ranger 3.0L 42 pin connector. I think that's where my problem is. Oddly enough I don't have interor lights any more either....
 
Anyone? I picked up a '99 Harness and swapped it onto the motor. So I now have a '99 Motor in a '00 Ranger. I still have the same problems. It dead when I turn the key to either "on" or "start". If I bypass the starter relay the motor will crank over. As will the fuel pump if I bypass its relay. My steering column is from a 97 but it has the PATS ring to read the key swapped onto it. FWIW the theft light does not blink either. It don't think that its reading my key. But then again its Type B PATS and will not prevent the engine from cranking...
 
Last edited:
im not sure what your trying to do exactly but it should be pretty straight forward to disable pats and get it fired up. Once its running as it should you can then start knocking out the gremlins and what have you.

if you can't get it fired up with pats disabled then you have wiring issues. If you hadn't gone through the harness and simplified it then its prob best to do so.
 
I had a car alarm in the truck when I got it. I removed it when i started my restomod. Apparently when I depinned and repinned the column wiring I put two wires back in the wrong slots. I also had a bad fuse in slot #26. Now I have interior lights again. Theft light flashes, fuel pump primes and I can read the PCM with a code reader. I cannot connect with Forscan to pair the ECU/PATS module. It also does not crank when I try to start it. Something else is still wrong.
 
She cranks with the key now. The problem is the clutch sensor not bottoming out. I used the 3/4" 1992 Ranger master cylinder. Anyone else have experience with this. I think I might just bypass it and connect the NSS on my TR-3550 up.
 
I just have my neutral safety switch bypassed. I've driven manuals all my life and I'm not a dummy so I don't need it.
Of course my truck started as a manual, so I don't know if the AT worked different there.
 

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