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1996 mazda b3000 overheats


mrhardstar

New Member
Joined
May 24, 2009
Messages
1
Vehicle Year
1996
Transmission
Manual
I have 1996 Mazda b3000 that has been over heating when the temperature gets above 60degrees outside. increased speed and hills make it get hot fast only way to keep it from completely overheating is to turn the heater on full blast. it never had the problem untill i took it in to get the heatercore replaced. oil looks fine, runs fine in cooler than 60 degree weather ive now also replaced thermostat and the waterpump didn't change? any ideas? :headbang:
 
after getting it hot, drive it home and spray the rad with a hose, then watch where it dries out, everywhere that stays wet is still cold and means your rad is plugged an not working. Which means like B2Dangerous said you will need a new rad
 
My 4.0 ranger was "overheating" last week...

It really freaked me out because I have the two core radiator
a 185deg T-stat, a HD (4.0SOHC) Fan clutch, etc...

I found it very odd that after spraying the radiator the temp indication went UP, not down... and the indicated temp was rising even after I had cooled it sufficiently that
it was sucking water from the overflow bottle....

At that point I concluded my "overheating" problem was infact an
instrumentation problem.

AD
 
well

will the problem. ive seen in the past with rangers overheating. is caused by the radiotor getting plug up with all the sluge in your coolant system. so if your coolant looks like pumpkin pie soup. then its deffently time to get a reverse coolant flush. becuase it will blow all that shiznit out. and clean out your coolant system over flow tank. and this sounds dumb but to clean the scale out of the block witch retains heat inside of the engine. after the flush take about a cup of sand and put it into your coolant system. it will like sandblast the old scale out of the block. but only do that for about a day. and use your old water pump. because you dont want to destory your new one. and remove the thermostat.then after about a days worth of driving or when your coolant looks like pumpkin pie soup. flush it out and make sure you get out all the sand. as well put your new water pump back onto your motor. then if it still overheats try changing the temp senior. it might be faulty. dont leave the sand in the coolant more then an hour or two of running time. because after that you start doing more harm then help.
 
after getting it hot, drive it home and spray the rad with a hose, then watch where it dries out, everywhere that stays wet is still cold and means your rad is plugged an not working. Which means like B2Dangerous said you will need a new rad

you dont need a new one. just get it reverse flush done toclean it out.
 
you dont need a new one. just get it reverse flush done toclean it out.

Well reverse flushes don't always work, if the rad is too clogged (like mine was). And, at least at the shop I went to, a reverse flush was only a few bucks cheaper than installing a brand new alum/plastic radiator. hardstar, save yourself the headache and get your system flow-checked, it's only about $25 at your local shop, and will really narrow down what your problem is.
 

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