1996 4.0 head questions

[Ramonjportilla]

I can't seem to find the tighten/toque for the head bolts. Tightening order wouldn't hurt either! Please and thank you!!

 

[Ramonjportilla]

Also I am currently sitting in my garage trying to find this answer online, not having any luck and I would like to put my heads back on this morning.

 

[Lone-Ranger]

Cylinder Head
Torque in 3 steps [1st (44 ft-lbs), 2nd (59 ft-lbs), 3rd (Tighten another 90-degrees)] (OHV Engines)

Rocker assemblies
[(50 ft-lbs) Torque in 3 steps using equal stages] (OHV Engines)

Lower Intake Manifold
Torque in 3 steps [1st (11 ft-lbs), 2nd (15 ft-lbs), 3rd (18 ft-lbs)] (OHV Engines)

Upper Intake Manifold
[(18 ft-lbs)] no steps (OHV Engines)

Valve Cover
Spec is somewhere around 10 in-lbs I believe, but with these bolts, I'd say tight is tight, and too tight is broke.

A simple google image search will yield the proper sequence for the head/intake manifold bolts. But it is almost always the case that you start with the bolts closest to the center and work your way to the front and rear equally in sequence. Ideally you will use new head bolts, as your factory ones are torque to yield (if I remember correctly).

 

[Lone-Ranger]

It should be noted that these specs are for a 1994 model year OHV 4.0, but I would imagine your 96 should be the same.

 

[Ramonjportilla]

Got all the info I need, hope I didn't make jim oaks too mad. Still getting used to this forum, but the info in this is more than helpful. Thank you.

 

[Big Jim M]

Just a bit of schooling here for the novices reading this.

"Torque in 3 steps [1st (44 ft-lbs), 2nd (59 ft-lbs), 3rd (Tighten another 90-degrees)] (OHV Engines)"

The above is a torque to yield sequence. Notice the last part saying "tighten another 90*".
What this does is to STREACH the part of the bolt between the engine block and the head of the bolt! So now you have the threaded part of the bolt firmly embedded in the block and the unthreaded part STREACHED to pull and hold the head tightly to the gasket between the block and the bottom of the head. Think of a RUBBER BOLT! Now over the years this bolt will pull the head down and keep the coolant, oil and cylinder pressure where it should stay. It will do this even if the gasket gives way slightly over time.
Also as to tightening sequence. I never saw a sequence that didn't start in the middle and go outwards one bolt at a time back and forth. This keeps a "wrinkle" from forming in the head surface while tightening.
Big Jim

 

[Lone-Ranger]

good info for people that aren't experienced with head/gasket replacement jim. Guess I could've/should've given a little more info, eh? However, I said "almost always" because there are engines out there without "center" bolts, i.e. small engines.

 

[enjr44]

A work to wise. Don't reuse torque to yield bolts. They are designed for single, one time use. You MIGHT get away with it; but, they also might fail down the road......

 

[Ramonjportilla]

Thanks everyone! Got er done!

 

[Lone-Ranger]

Good deal, thanks for the update.