1995 F-150 Mild Build Thread

[1996xlt]

My recent purchase (more pics to come):

Quick stats:
XLT Extended Cab W/ Long Bed
2WD/Auto
5.0L
200K on the clock
Twin fuel tanks
Original paint
Nearly all stock, with exception of a trailer brake assist under the dash
Still verifying, but believe everything works

Issues to address:
-There are a few interior cosmetic issues, mostly dents that can be popped out and the rear bumper needs to be straightened.
-Shift flare between 3rd gear and overdrive (I think, I bought it, parked it and went out of town immediately after.)
-Excessive play in steering, haven't investigated yet.
-Needs tires
-Deep clean it

Short-term goals:
Its a spare vehicle so, I don't plan on going too crazy on it initially. Fixing the issues above, doing maintenance, having a sprayed in bed-liner installed and getting comfortable with it for now.

Long-term goals:
Get the hood and roof re-sprayed or just do the whole thing
Make it a capable tow-rig when necessary and nice comfy cruiser that will leave some decent black lines on the pavement when requested.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Looks pretty clean, good find!

 

[decipha]

very nice

its typical for the collars on the steering shaft to wear or the actual shaft itself causing a bunch of play

 

[adsm08]

The bearing just behind the steering wheel is shot. It is a common problem.

Go to the dealer and ask for that bearing, they will probably know which one it is without having to look it up, and may even have it on hand. I had to put one in the Expedition this winter, it cost like $4 from the dealer.

Basically you just take the wheel off and you can see if that bearing is bad right away. If it is a hook-style seal puller will pop the outer race out of the column and a deep 18 or 19 MM (I think) with a light hammer will put it back in.

My repair was a bit more complexicated than that, but I had some other things to do at the same time that meant pulling the whole column.

DO NOT WAIT on this repair. It is a simple $4 and 10 minute fix when caught early and dealt with. If left go it will wear the shaft and column housing out, and the cost goes up over $200 and time gets into hours. Especially if you go pull one from a yard and have to do it all twice.

 

[1996xlt]

Thanks for the heads up adsm08 and dechipa, I’ll check out behind the wheel/the column.

Also made the first repairs this weekend: new brake pedal pad, dome light lense and bulb.

Added to the list of repairs: front tank I believe has a bad sending unit and drivers side window regulator/felts.

 

[1996xlt]

Not much to update, but it developed a stumble around 1200-1500 RPM (bucking/bogging, then would straighten out and run great) that turned out to be (so far) a fouled O2 sensor. Runs fine now.

Looks like in addition to the front tank sender needing replacement, the tank itself has a few weep holes in it. Also need to replace the driver's window regulator; oh well I'll add it to the list.

On the plus side it looks like the previous owner's story about an older guy has a grain of truth to it (based on the interior/paint condition), because the radius arm bushings have been recently replaced.

 

[1996xlt]

Had an odd occurrence with this truck a few weeks back, while at my local dump with it running as I off-loaded I heard an awful hissing/screeching with smoke rolling from under the hood. My initial thought was the A/C compressor seized (just my luck with automotive A/C systems) so I reached in and shut it off and the sound stopped. Drove home (with A/C off) and parked it and saw where coolant had sprayed the hoses, belt and hood. I've since replaced the thermostat and temp sensor (temp never read correctly anyway) I figured the coolant system over-pressurized causing it to shift and caused a leak. All is well and the temp reads correctly.

Well, looks like that may not have been the issue to begin with; while I was out yesterday picking up a new-to-me set of rims for it, did the same thing while running the A/C, turned off and stopped screeching/hissing. I'm beginning to think the A/C system has been overcharged and it finds the weakest point and sprays the oil/UV dye in the same area.

Is this plausible? The system works well otherwise and I'd imagine if there was a significant leak the compressor wouldn't cycle at all or seize.

 

[1996xlt]

Few updates to the truck:

-Passed inspection!
-New battery/Alternator earlier this year
-Another new temp sensor because it was stuck in "warm-up" with the old one and kept flooding causing a no-start. All is well now.
-Replaced oil pressure sensor over this past weekend (showing below the "L" on the dash) and no dice, guess the cluster has to come out. The truck runs great and actually has pressure, just a pet peeve of mine that gauge doesn't work properly
-A new-to-me Thule Trac-Rac bed rack for our paddle boards
-New LED third brake light

To do list:

-New rims/tires (have the rims)
-New shocks (on the shelf)
-Re-paint the roof (previous owner painted it with the wrong color and didn't clear coat it)

Wants:
-Limited-slip and steeper gears. I knew it didn't have a limited slip when it got stuck on wet grass in my front yard and after checking the door sticker it looks like it has 2.8x gears. Good for cruising, but not much else...
-I'm thinking of doing a 2" lift on it to get rid of the nose-dive it has now (see first pic) and putting on some 31''s. Could be just some really tired original front springs.
As it sits now:

 

[1996xlt]

Well I may be parting ways with this truck in the near future due to a deal too good to pass up; a near perfect all original 1974 F250 Ranger that my wife’s friend is selling. Unfortunately you can’t keep em’ all!

Edit: She gone!