1994 Ranger

[Wayno666]

I was driving home. Radio quit momentarily. Volt meter went to zero. Checked charging, not charging. Bought and installed a new alternator. Not charging. Replaced with another new, not rebuilt. Not charging. Checked wiring to alternator. Moved and twisted them and noticed voltage drop. Soldered in connector. Voltage to yellow/wire wire constant. Not charging. Read about the charge light issue. Pulled dash to gain access. I found all warning lights not working.
This is now where I'm at.
Any ideas?
I'm new here. Thanks for the add

 

[Wayno666]

Oh all fuses are good

 

[Bgunner]

When you say not charging how are you checking this?

Use a multi-meter to check if the alternator is putting out voltage. Can be tested at the battery.

 

[RonD]

1994 cluster wiring below

It shows the cab fuse to test

But Battery Light(charge ind) doesn't use a fuse, just a wire from the ignition switch direct to the cluster

On the alternator is a 3 wire plug
Unplug it and test green/red wire for 12v, key off, should be 0volt
Then test again key on, should be 12v(battery volts)

If not then no 12v to cluster from ignition switch
Ignition switch is powered by 60amp fuse in Engine fuse box
This fuse is powered by a red wire coming from starter relay post that has Battery Positive cable with it

And that could be initial problem
Starter relays larger post that has battery positive wire connected, is the 12v distribution for the whole vehicle
That one red wire from that post to engine fuse box carries ALL the 12v power for everything in the vehicle
Alternator is even hooked up to that same post

So if that one red wire to engine fuse box should be corroded or loose no 12volt power anywhere

 

[Wayno666]

When you say not charging how are you checking this?

Use a multi-meter to check if the alternator is putting out voltage. Can be tested at the battery.

It stays at battery voltage. Yes volt meter across battery

 

[Wayno666]

It stays at battery voltage. Yes volt meter across battery

I also swapped batteries

 

[Wayno666]

It's been a while sorry, been busy.
I took my old alternator to the shop for a bench check. I had the new one I bought online. I didn't want to take the new on in as I had to return it and didn't want it damaged. The operator at the shop was a bit confused how to operate the machine and brought another over to help. After running the check the confirmed it to be faulty. I sent back the new Bosch I bought and ordered another thinking if my old one was bad this one must be too.
Got the new Bosch about a week later. Installed it and no charge and no charge light on dash. I went to trace the connection from the alternator to the instrument cluster. Everything seemed to check out. Continuity and all. As far as I could see and check it appeared fine.
Thinking back on when it started I did something I hadn't usually done. While waiting in line at the recycling station I switched back and forth from on to run and move to acc. I thought maybe the ignition switch contacts got disturbed, dirt maybe. I took the cowl from the steering assembly off and removed the ignition switch to gain access to the contacts. To my surprise, there were no contacts. I looked over the assembly and noticed a rod running down the steering column into a box. I looked on a fiche and saw it was indeed the ignition switch. I got a can of non corrosive electronic cleaner and lube and sprayed the snot out of it while working the ignition back and forth. Shazamm I got a light on the dash. Fired it up and everything was bitch'n.
I pulled the brushes from my old alternator and found them a bit short so I ordered a set for $10 and figured I'd save the $160 dollars if I ever need another.
I'll say it again, I do as much work on my vehicles as I can because you can;t really trust anyone else.
Thanks for your help and maybe this could benefit anyone with similar issues.
Wayno666