1994 Ford Ranger 4.0L Cold Air Intake

[JimRummy]

Just curious, would having the part that attaches to the intake manifold disconnected and blocked effect the overall temp at all?

 

[2trux]

Which part? There is not much you can disconnect and block that wouldn't affect the engine runability.

 

[JimRummy]

The part what comes from the airbox to the core support that draws the air has a little offshoot that goes to the exhaust manifold ( for cold starts I'm assuming, but I live in California so its not necessary), would blocking that off (it would be removed, but block they opening) help the seal or temp at all.

 

[ThorM465]

Lord help me the stupid earlier in this thread hurts! I came across this thread looking for a "cold air" intake for my 93 Ford Ranger 4.0 OHV. I know it's old but I just can't resist.

I'll give it to them they did make some valid points. The K&N setups aren't actually "cold air" intakes. I imagine this term was used for marketing sometime back and just stuck. Unless you're running an intercooler you're not actually getting an appreciably cooler air flow.

That being said these trucks do not come with a cold air intake! They get half of their intake from the exhaust manifold. Who the hell thinks that is cold air?

Let's establish why "cold" air is a good thing for a second. Colder air is denser then warmer air, so you get more O2 per cubic inch of intake.

Unless you have a virtually sealed of engine compartment the air just outside of the engine compartment is of little difference in temperature than the air rushing through your engine compartment while you're going 50+mph. I'd be willing to bet that you won't see a 5 degree difference in the air intake from cold air intakes one with the "correct" box around the cone and one without.

So how do these intake kits provide the gains that they claim (I'm not supporting their claims in full.)? They provide a higher flow rate into the intake. Someone hit on this earlier, but down played it's significance. I believe it was because of the ample flow rate the stock box provides with it 2x4 opening. WTH??? Who here really thinks that is not a restrictive system? Doubling the flow rate is much more important than seeing a 25 degree difference in air intake let alone a less than 20 degree difference.

The "cold air" intakes are worth it when you have restrictive systems like my truck does or you're heavily modified. And yes sometimes its also worth it if horsepower gain is worth it to you in your build. Even is it equates to 1hp = $100.

Rant over. Thank you for your time.

 

[ThorM465]

i know this is a ongoing and a old thread but this should help a little with some people looking for intake systems

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gCi2yo4UqPI

Thanks for posting this. It made me realize I left something out of my rant above.

If your exhaust is your choke point in the system, no intake mod is going to do anything for you. I'd highly suggest doing headers before or during the intake upgrade.

 

[jeremysdad]

They only draw air past the exhaust manifold during warmup if the system is functioning properly.

 

[AllanD]

really? cool. I thought I'd heard that mentioned around here. I've just never seen a 4 popper ranger from that era. I knew a friend with a 86 4cyl and a friend of mine has a 2008 4 popper. Never looked under their hoods though.

The really impressive factory headers are the ones used on the early 2.3liter Aerostars.. they weren't a "shorty" header they weren't merely a long-tube either, they were a long-tube Tri-Y header....

As a note on reality...something as heavy as an Aerostar with only an EFI2.3 Lima engine needs every but of help it can get...

Some early "Fox" mustangs came from the factory with "shorty headers as well.

So did the 1992 F-150 "Lightning"


For the record the 1993 4.0 OHV engine in my '87 Supercab wears a set of Borla headers.

I can't say for certain that they do a whole lot, but they certainly don't hurt.

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