1994 B3000. New owner and getting started. What to look over/replace?

[Research Rat]

I just picked up a 1994 B3000, manual transmission and 90k on the odometer. I could use some help with getting started with basic maintenance.

I just changed the oil and filter yesterday (mobile synthetic.) I'm assuming that I should also pull the plugs and look over and check the air filter as well. Anything else?

The only other things that might need addressing are a "raspy" exhaust. It sounds like either the original owner removed a baffle or the packing has since blown out. The canister itself appears to be in good shape cosmetically and looks fairly new.

Is there a shop manual that owner's prefer? I'm used to Hayes manuals for working on motorcycles.

Thanks in advance.
-Scott

 

[exbass94]

I would change all fluids, including coolant, trans fluid (use Mercon ATF in the manual trans), diffs, t-case. Fuel filter, air filter, plugs, and PCV valve too.

 

[Research Rat]

Coolant, plugs, air filter-should all be easy, especially since I know where they are located.

As far as the ATF fluid-is there one central drain for the entire transmission?

Fuel filter and pcv valve-how are these accessed?

-Scott

I would change all fluids, including coolant, trans fluid (use Mercon ATF in the manual trans), diffs, t-case. Fuel filter, air filter, plugs, and PCV valve too.

 

[adsm08]

ATF does not have one central drain. A lot of guys around here will tell you that dropping the pan and filling it back up is good enough, the problem is that only gets about half the fluid out and won't drain the torque converter. Go find yourself a shop that uses a BG trans flusher and get them to do it. The BG machines are great as you can even see the fluid change colors from the dirty old stuff to the new stuff as the flush proceeds.

DON'T use a shop that has a Robinair flusher, those ones are terrible. They just suck it our of the pan through the dipstick tube and shoots new fluid back in instead of being placed in-line and forcing the old stuff out.

As for the PVC and Fuel filter, the fuel filter is down below, on the frame. The PVC is up on top of the engine, in one of the valve covers. It should just twist out and the new one twists back in.

 

[HareRazor]

I would check the leaf spring mount and shackles on the back to see if they are almost rusted out. Also the coil buckets on the front for the same reason.

 

[Research Rat]

Thanks for the insight on the flush. What's a transmission flush typically cost?

ATF does not have one central drain. A lot of guys around here will tell you that dropping the pan and filling it back up is good enough, the problem is that only gets about half the fluid out and won't drain the torque converter. Go find yourself a shop that uses a BG trans flusher and get them to do it. The BG machines are great as you can even see the fluid change colors from the dirty old stuff to the new stuff as the flush proceeds.

DON'T use a shop that has a Robinair flusher, those ones are terrible. They just suck it our of the pan through the dipstick tube and shoots new fluid back in instead of being placed in-line and forcing the old stuff out.

As for the PVC and Fuel filter, the fuel filter is down below, on the frame. The PVC is up on top of the engine, in one of the valve covers. It should just twist out and the new one twists back in.

 

[makindue]

Hi HareRazor. I check out mine. And it was already rust out. What should I do?

 

[exbass94]

Guys, he has a manual transmission. You can't "flush" a manual. To change fluid, simply remove drain plug and refill with fresh fluid. Easier than an engine oil change.

 

[Research Rat]

Yes-my truck has a manual transmission. It sounds like there are different approaches for transmission fluid change between auto and manual.

So how does the drain work?

Run the truck a bit to heat up the fluid?
Drain at the bottom of the transmission?
Refill fluid via the engine compartment?

How much fluid will it take and any preferred brand?

-Scott

Guys, he has a manual transmission. You can't "flush" a manual. To change fluid, simply remove drain plug and refill with fresh fluid. Easier than an engine oil change.

 

[exbass94]

On the side of the trans, there’s a drain plug and a fill plug. Remove the fill plug first. Remove the drain plug and let the fluid drain out. Reinstall the drain plug. Fill it up with fresh fluid through the fill hole until it starts overflowing. Reinstall fill plug and you’re done. It should take about 2.5 quarts.

I like using one of these pumps for refilling:

It screws onto the bottle and works like a soap dispenser. Use any fluid that says “Dexron III/Mercon” or “Dex/Merc” for short.

 

[Research Rat]

So I looked into this a bit deeper, From what I've read, there's opposing viewpoints on replacing atf in transmissions-some say, replace it every 30k miles, others say don't replace at all as you're at risk for developing issues with your transmission/cluch once the old gunky stuff is replaced with the fresh fluid.

What's the rule of thumb here?

When I changed the motor oil it was black and disgusting and likely hadn't been in changed in I-don't-know-how-long. I'd guess the atf in the transmission had never been touched as well.

Am I at risk of clutch slipping, transmission failing if I replaced the fluid at this point? Am I better off leaving the old fluid in there?

-Scott

On the side of the trans, there’s a drain plug and a fill plug. Remove the fill plug first. Remove the drain plug and let the fluid drain out. Reinstall the drain plug. Fill it up with fresh fluid through the fill hole until it starts overflowing. Reinstall fill plug and you’re done. It should take about 2.5 quarts.

I like using one of these pumps for refilling:

It screws onto the bottle and works like a soap dispenser. Use any fluid that says “Dexron III/Mercon” or “Dex/Merc” for short.

 

[exbass94]

So I looked into this a bit deeper, From what I've read, there's opposing viewpoints on replacing atf in transmissions-some say, replace it every 30k miles, others say don't replace at all as you're at risk for developing issues with your transmission/cluch once the old gunky stuff is replaced with the fresh fluid.

What's the rule of thumb here?

When I changed the motor oil it was black and disgusting and likely hadn't been in changed in I-don't-know-how-long. I'd guess the atf in the transmission had never been touched as well.

Am I at risk of clutch slipping, transmission failing if I replaced the fluid at this point? Am I better off leaving the old fluid in there?

-Scott

That myth only applies to automatic transmissions. Manual transmissions don't have clutches inside them. Go ahead and change it.

(And anyway, even if you had an automatic, I would still tell you to change it. I don't believe in that MYTH at all.)