1994 347/c4 build -project- rebel rouser

[84FreakRanger]

I'm working on my fuel system now, I bought a Summit 140gph fuel pump and regulator and I'm plumbing it this week. It is easy if you are buying that fuel cell, just buy the right fittings and hoses, plumb it away from the exhaust or it will vapor lock. Also you might want to make a lock box so nobody steal your gas.

 

[prymetime1]

Thanks for the advice 84FR, appreciate it. I def do not want to have vapor lock issues down the road. The cost seems to be reasonable when all said n done after further research. I really wanted an aluminum cell but that is not fitting the budget, the one I posted earlier is out of stock so no go on that one.
I've picked out a few parts and it should all work out in the end. I'm going to go with AN fittings and braided PTFE hoses. The fuel pump is the only real piece that gets me, my dad doesn't seam to think I need a $115 fp but I really do not want to starve the engine of fuel. I'm also thinking of that summit fp. It has decent reviews and cost is lower than the competition.. let me know how it works for u. I plan to tackle the ordering once I have my engine n trans in this weekend.

Oh, I picked up the cobra wheels. They are in decent shape with minimal corrosion. I'm planning on painting them the anthrite color u seen on some of the torq thrust out there. Trying to keep it darker n less blinged out look.
Since they are 17x9 I'm leaning towards 255/45s all around.
Liked these guys:

Ono

 

[ATX]

1994 347/c4 build -project name pending

Nice , wanna see pics of the wheels . I have a set of 17x8 oem ford torque looking wheels just need tires . Been up in my attic now for a few years lol


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[prymetime1]

Ask and receive :

Much cooler wheel than the 15x8 steelies I was going to run. Bigger, lighter and oem ford.



So not much to update. I dropped wheels off at my rents since it was nice day. Got the headliner out and ready to fix with new material. Ended up not having enough

I got the motor mounts to the cross member, they are loose for positioning

Got the pinch seem knocked up into the tunnel.

And got my hood ready for the underside paint

I also cut some of the rot out for the rad suppory

That's about it for my 2 hours today.

Ono

 

[ATX]

Nice wheels brotha . Really one of my favs out off all the stangs . I'm thinking of swapping out 16's to a black Bassett wheel or diamond . I want deep dish and some what stretched tire . So I'm thinking a 16x9 with a pull and roll on the front fenders . Your headliner is going to look good . Got a sewing machine ? Could use that material in the center and find some black to fill the front and back . The the white won't get dirty when pulling visors down . Beat the trans tunnel in around the driver side foot well where it starts to curve towards the floor board . Maybe it's just cause of the aod I stuffed in there on mine . Got a pic of the radiator or which one your using . I don't remember if you posted that .


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[84FreakRanger]

Hey prymetime1 I had 2 Summit fp before on my Rollback and now my ranger. They are good pumps, they are basically a Holley pump because Summit owns Holley and they have a year warranty. It was $122.94 for the pump and regulator combo http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g3136k

 

[prymetime1]

ATX & 84, thanks for the input here. Appreciate it.
As for the sewing machine, no go there. I do have a local seamstress that takes care of my alterations so I'm going to see if she can stitch me up one nice big piece to cover the liner. Material was only 10 bucks so not killer.
As for the radiator ,I'll need to snap a better pic but here are the two I have available, one from the 69 n the summit

Great info for the fp. I'll probably end up going that route. I already have the FPR and FP gauge.

Can't wait to get at it this weekend.

 

[84FreakRanger]

I would probably use the brass radiator but you probably have to cram it inside the core support or get a Northern Radiator that bolts inside your core support http://www.ebay.com/itm/Northern-20...50682&clkid=495734739496438512&_qi=RTM2067267 not bad compare other companies who wants 400-$500 each. I have an odd radiator in my ranger it is 1in thin maybe and I have maybe a inch or inch and half space between my fan and radiator, I still have to slide the transmission over to get the motor straight too.

 

[ATX]

That front brass radiator looks like a winner to me .


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[prymetime1]

Thanks for the suggestions broskies. After seeing how small the 3.0 rad I figured I was going to have to get creative on using either. The brass one I think would be easier myself but it does looks alil beat up...it IS after all 47 years old. Haha. That northern radiator might be the way to go. Looks like a nice piece and not overly expensive. Thoughts on using the 4.0 rad? I plan on using the electric fan with a spral controller wired up.

 

[ATX]

1994 347/c4 build -project name pending

I'm using the 98+ radiator in mine right now which i had to shoehorn In There ,but it about 4" longer or so . The stock 4.0 radiator that came In Or year is supposed to work pretty good as long as the fan setup is good and two core . I haven't sold the 5.0 radiator yet and goi g to see how that fits . It has the same setup for hoses and mounts for the fan . I'm going to just see now since we're on this subject and since I haven't installied coolant maybe swap the rads out . You want to go as big as you can with or bays Guess play around with both since you got the time now . If you use the 96 expo hose and 2001 expo lower hose your good to go . I have the part # for the lower in my thread . The upper I already had and came with the donor .



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[prymetime1]

Quick update as this weekends progress wasn't as good as set out.

I was messing with the engine getting it ready to test fit. When I put the flexplate on, I realized the engine backing plate wasn't lining up correctly. Come to find its the 164 tooth backing plate where as I need thr 157 tooth. Kinda snagged me up on that front.

I went home and researched parts = $$$ out my pockets.

I finally pulled the Tigger on ditching the stock fuel ish. With that, I started to get the lines out of the way and un bolting the straps. Should be out of the way once I get to finishing that up. Didn't get much time fitting the engine, was only in high 30s yesterday and my pops wasn't feeling it so..it's in...kinda...def a tight fit.

I'm guna tighten down the passenger side that is in where it should be and see if that helps coax the driver side down where it needs to be. If that doesn't work, I'll have to mod the plate and elongate the mounting hole to give it the room it needs to slide into place


Also, I am not able to use either radiator, they are both huge in comparison. I will end up going with a stock 94 4.0 or maybe the northern one that 84 posted up.

Looks like I'll have a nice parts pile for sale that might get me some coin back.

Also, I am ditching the headman headers and going with the Patriot try y long tubes. I'm thinking this will be easier for running the exhaust once I get there.

Parts order

Once that ish gets here Wednesday I should be able to keep on keeping on with this b.

Ono

 

[84FreakRanger]

Hey Prymetime that relay kit is a rip off. I got a relay at O'reilly's for $6.99 and it is simple to wire up. Also you can buy a 1984 ranger gas tank for $79.00 it should bolt-on and save some money!!!!!!!!!!!!!! yea boy!!!!!!!!!! lol I also have parts for sell because you are doing what I did. The bolt-on motor kit and heddman headers are not a direct fit bolt-on. I'm goint to start my motor tomorrow hopefully. Hopefully I save you some money.

 

[prymetime1]

Hey 84, Thanks for the heads up. I went and pulled trigger on this crap. I figured it was one stop shopping and what I don't use I can send back for refund, gotta love summit. I did think thst was kinda expensive for the wire harness hut figured it was all there and simple to go.
So I do actually have a cool idea (to me at least ) for the fuel cell. It's demensions say it should fit under the tool box. This will keep it nice n hidden n still have usable bed. I'll cut the tool box inside and make a door to access the fill hole. I should be able to mount the fuel pump in the bed next to cell, under tool box.

By locating the fuel cell in the bed, it makes plenty of room for the dual exhaust......hopefully.

 

[84FreakRanger]

Ok, If you mount the cell under the tool box, have it above the fuel pump so the pump won't work to hard feeding the gas. Yes it would give you more room for dual exhaust. My dual exhaust runs on the passenger side the over the axles and out on each side. Well see you later when update our posts. if you want me to tell you how to wire the relay just hit me up.