1994 3.0L V6 Ranger needs help!

[Shri Warrior]

Alright, so I bought this ex-county truck off an old man about a year ago and I have been having problems with it since. It seems like after a period of time, maybe an hour or two of driving or multiple stops, me truck will start idling eradictly and eventually die (it'll also skip too). It doesn't seem to matter if I am accelerating or decellerating, though I will say that it tends to happen more often when the speed fluctuates.
So far the MAF, TPS, VSS, IAC, EGR, PVC, battery, fuel pump (changed twice), valve cover gaskets; fuel, oil and transmission filters, spark plugs and wires, and coolant temp sensor have been changed, plus several oil changes and a fuel tank cleaning. Everytime I think I've fixed the problem, she does it again, and I tell you, it is quite frustrating. I hope someone intelligent and experienced can give me a good idea of what the problem is. I plan on spending $50 tomorrow on a MAP sensor.

 

[Shri Warrior]

Update: Oct. 14

Reading in Haynes manual that it may be the Power Steering Pressure switch. It says quote: "A pressure switch that will not close or an open circuit may cause the engine to die when the power steering system is used heavily." Well I got the MAP anyway, but now off to examine power steering system which I know is leeking.

 

[barrys]

On the sensor replacment, what is telling you this part is failing?
Did you do a code scan and the engine off/running self tests with a code reader?
I would think you'd want the system to at least try to tell you what's going on.
BTW, if you don't have a code reader, you can do the tests with a paper clip in the test harnness connector and the codes will blink on check engine light.
There's a great post on all of that on sbftech.com. The post title is "DIY KOEO/KOER/Cylinder Balance Self-Test Procedure."
You need to register to search for it so I can't provide the direct link.

There's also a great vid on youtube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ivxDYSmGjHc
Instead of using that little contraption on the test plug, just use a paper clip to jumper between pin 2 of the connector to enter test mode.

Googling for test codes and sequences is easy.

Once you post back with test codes, you'll probably get lots of meaningful responses from the experienced forum members.

 

[Rearanger]

I hope someone intelligent and experienced can give me a good idea of what the problem is. I plan on spending $50 tomorrow on a MAP sensor.

You mean more "intelligent" than someone who throws parts at it? Did you test any of those components? About the only thing you didn't mention was testing for vacuum leak(s). That's my dumb suggestion.

 

[barrys]

Do you have any manuals? Even the non-factory manuals have information on how to test the common components. The Helm manual seems to cover all that I'd ever needed to test. That manual -- and the sticker on your radiator cowl -- will give you the vacuum routing information. Without an ohmmeter, a code reader (or paper clip), and a manual, you're probably going to replace most of the parts on the car and still might not find out what's wrong.

Also, in another post I read the following which seemed like good advice:
Whenever you replace or clean any component that the computer talks to (a.k.a. almost anything with a wire on it) you should disconnect the battery for 2 hours, reconnect and drive at least 10 miles to get the computer to re-scan everything and reset it's adjustment parameters.

Two other questions:
You say you "replaced the EGR." There are many components in the EGR subsystem. Which one did you replace? The parts that are easiest to identify are often not the ones that fail.

Did you have anyone check the computer itself? Of course that could be flaking out. If so, everything else will just act weird and have you chasing your tail.

Are you having your truck serviced by a dealer or an experienced indy Ford shop? Everyone thinks Rangers are just simple "regular" trucks, but they do have their nuances that experienced mechanics seem to understand.

 

[barrys]

Here's the link to that very cool page on self test info and procedures:
http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,2471.0.html

 

[Shri Warrior]

Alrite. Sorry, I've been preoccupied lately. Anyway, found out that a wire (green) connecting to the fuel pump switch under the glove box had been chewed apart by a mouse. Before I noticed it only partly wore out, but when I checked it out the other day it was totally split in half. To make a long story short, I fixed that and the truck runs a bit better. And to note, that green wire also lead to some other vaccuum wires, thus into a connector end. The truck stalled out again today.
To answer your question, I have no testing device. But I wasted $110 on a total physical at the Ford dealership. No codes ran up, but low fuel pressure was noted.

 

[Shri Warrior]

Alrite. So I fixed her. Fuel pump relay was hotwired incorrectly, so I had to go in and repair it. Been quite a few months since, and still no stalling. Now I need to worry on a new transmission. Will a 1995 ranger's transmission fit mine. They're both automatic.


-P.S.

For the smart ass up top. Yes, I was just throwing parts at it, but hey man, its a 1994. thats 17 years of wear and tear.

 

[beefgravy]

Alrite. So I fixed her. Fuel pump relay was hotwired incorrectly, so I had to go in and repair it. Been quite a few months since, and still no stalling. Now I need to worry on a new transmission. Will a 1995 ranger's transmission fit mine. They're both automatic.


-P.S.

For the smart ass up top. Yes, I was just throwing parts at it, but hey man, its a 1994. thats 17 years of wear and tear.

Posted a simular question with out a real answer...lol Hope you get one. I have a 97 3.0 with an auto and my reverse band broke, so before I spend hours at the junk yard I want to know which ones to pull. I think this website may be a little dead though..