1994 2.3L EGR Tube

[danielwd]

Ford does not manufacture it anymore. I can't find it anywhere - only choice is probably junkyard, and that looks slim from the junkyards I've talked to around me.

My present tube is twisted and cracked. I'm getting the "insufficient flow EGR valve" error code.

The truck sometimes will start right up like it's brand new and run a few times around the block without incident. Then it will start in running rough, with a grave loss of power and terrible idle.

The EGR valve is newish (less than a year old) and has been installed to correct torque, etc... No vacuum leaks as checked with starting fluid. I also dismantled intake and cleaned the crap out of it because it was in bad condition - the EGR port was a mess with lots of carbon build up. But problem persists, and the only sensible culprit is the twisted/cracked EGR tube. BTW, I also replaced the DPFE sensor within the last year, and I also backprobed it - it is working correctly with almost 4V at 1500 RPM.

Has anyone ever blocked off their EGR valve with a plate and uninstalled the vacuum solenoid/DPFE sensor? I would think the line down at the EGR tube/exhaust manifold would also need to be blocked off.

This is a truck that is only used once a week for messy errands - retrieval of pine straw, etc...

Thanks for any help!

 

[tomw]

If adventurous, you can substitute copper tubing for factory, but, if you have a built-in orifice, you must plumb that in. The tubes with orifices internal have tubes connected on either side that go to the DPFE, and provide a pressure differential that is measured to know the 'flow'. If you cut the tube 'before and after', and splice it in using compression fittings, it should work properly.
tom

 

[danielwd]

If adventurous, you can substitute copper tubing for factory, but, if you have a built-in orifice, you must plumb that in. The tubes with orifices internal have tubes connected on either side that go to the DPFE, and provide a pressure differential that is measured to know the 'flow'. If you cut the tube 'before and after', and splice it in using compression fittings, it should work properly.
tom

Thanks for the input. Although there is not a welding bone in my body, I do have very close friends who are excellent welders. So this may be an option - taking my old tube to them, with some copper tubing, and letting them have at it.

Do you know anything about blocking of the EGR valve at the top intake manifold and bottom exhaust manifold, while disconnecting the EGR vacuum solenoid and the DPFE sensor? Are you aware of any consequences? Since this is a 1994 vehicle, my state does zero emissions testing. Heck, I haven't had a cat installed in over a decade.

I am so fed up with tinkering with this EGR system, that I am thinking about blocking prospects.

Again, thanks for the input.

 

[tomw]

If you remove or disable the EGR, you will likely get one or two problems. More common is pinging, secondary is oil consumption. The first can ruin an engine, the latter can kill one if you don't watch. Oil goes because the pistons are hotter, and the vapor(oil will produce vapor) will be more, and will be fed to the engine, thus consumed more.
The pinging is due to the higher peak temp in the combustion chamber as the EGR dilutes the gas/air mix fed with unburnables, lowering peak, thus lowering NOx formation. (and reducing temp... so less ping or spark knock)
I was not suggesting welding. You can get 'compression fittings' that will join together sections of tubing, commonly called a 'union', I think. The fittings at either end could be left alone if the tube is ok. the section with the orifice would be needed, or a copy could be made by forcing a flat washer of the right size into the fittings or tubing, but you'd have to have small tubes(welded, darn it) to access the pressure on either side of the orifice.
tom

 

[danielwd]

If you remove or disable the EGR, you will likely get one or two problems. More common is pinging, secondary is oil consumption. The first can ruin an engine, the latter can kill one if you don't watch. Oil goes because the pistons are hotter, and the vapor(oil will produce vapor) will be more, and will be fed to the engine, thus consumed more.
The pinging is due to the higher peak temp in the combustion chamber as the EGR dilutes the gas/air mix fed with unburnables, lowering peak, thus lowering NOx formation. (and reducing temp... so less ping or spark knock)
I was not suggesting welding. You can get 'compression fittings' that will join together sections of tubing, commonly called a 'union', I think. The fittings at either end could be left alone if the tube is ok. the section with the orifice would be needed, or a copy could be made by forcing a flat washer of the right size into the fittings or tubing, but you'd have to have small tubes(welded, darn it) to access the pressure on either side of the orifice.
tom

Thank you for this valuable input. I am at an impasse with this truck. It is not an everyday vehicle, but I love having a truck in case I need to transport something I would not like to put in our newer vehicles, which, in many cases wouldn't fit in them anyways. Trucks are awesome vehicles, and this one has served me well as I am the original owner.

I guess at this point, blocking is the only option. Or have someone tow it to the junk yard. I have read on many sites that blocking is no big deal, even without a tune. I read other sites that have contradicted. But what do I have to lose?

Nothing! I will keep this forum up to date on the outcomes.

Thanks, and if you have anything to add, feel free.

PS...my blocking approach will be to block at intake and exhaust with plates. I guess the DPFE can just be unplugged at the the electrical connector? The vacuum solenoid too? I have read some sites that state to keep the vacuum solenoid plugged in at the electrical connector. Any advice here?

 

[danielwd]

Interesting....I just found EGR blocking plugs for some vehicles that screw in at the exhaust manifold.

I wonder if there are any manufactured for Rangers? I am thinking not as the ends of the tube coming out of the exhaust manifold are threaded to the best of my recollection. I don't think any kind of blocking bolt could screw in.

Any ideas on that?

 

[JJNOLA]

I disabled the vacuum line to my egr. Same as blocking it off. My DPFE malfunctioned and was causing my egr to open early which was causing a CEL and lean condition. Very sputtery except at WOT. So, plug in the vacuum line was my fix. My 94 2.3 has always pinged, with or without egr. I just use 93 octane gas. That cut 90% if the pinging at all ranges.

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[JJNOLA]

Meant to also say, if you're talking abut the copper egr pipe from your exhaust manifold, they sell those on rockauto.com and ebay.

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[danielwd]

Meant to also say, if you're talking abut the copper egr pipe from your exhaust manifold, they sell those on rockauto.com and ebay.

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I bought what looks like a brass flare nut (I think 5/8?) from Lowes that screwed directly on the exhaust manifold port, where the bottom of the EGR tube was originally. I have unplugged my DPFE sensor, blocked off my EGR valve with a blocking plate, and extracted the sensor that controlled vacuum to the EGR valve (I can't remember what it's called, but it had a black cap on it that popped off).

It was an exact fit - it fit like a glove.

I worry though that this flare cap brass nut fitting (I don't know exactly what to call it) will not hold up over time to the temperatures and pressures exerted within the manifold. I bet it blows out at some point, and I can only imagine what it's going to be like getting it off.

Getting the thing on was an awful chore - I ripped out my AC evaporator just to make room enough for a cheater bar to get the thing on. My AC system hasn't worked in over ten years, so I just ripped the whole system out to give me more room everywhere under the hood.

Hopefully this brass looking flare nut holds up.

The truck is running great after replacing four fuel injectors, which you can read about in another thread in this forum.

 

[JJNOLA]

I bought what looks like a brass flare nut (I think 5/8?) from Lowes that screwed directly on the exhaust manifold port, where the bottom of the EGR tube was originally. I have unplugged my DPFE sensor, blocked off my EGR valve with a blocking plate, and extracted the sensor that controlled vacuum to the EGR valve (I can't remember what it's called, but it had a black cap on it that popped off).

It was an exact fit - it fit like a glove.

I worry though that this flare cap brass nut fitting (I don't know exactly what to call it) will not hold up over time to the temperatures and pressures exerted within the manifold. I bet it blows out at some point, and I can only imagine what it's going to be like getting it off.

Getting the thing on was an awful chore - I ripped out my AC evaporator just to make room enough for a cheater bar to get the thing on. My AC system hasn't worked in over ten years, so I just ripped the whole system out to give me more room everywhere under the hood.

Hopefully this brass looking flare nut holds up.

The truck is running great after replacing four fuel injectors, which you can read about in another thread in this forum.

Hello again...

when you removed the DPFE sensor, vacuum solenoid, and blocked the EGR, I'm sure you had a CEL (as do I with just the EGR vacuum hose plugged) but did you engine run weird after unplugging the sensors and solenoid? Or is it all one in the same? If I were to complete remove everything EGR related, it'll run fine, but with a CEL?

 

[bobaloo]

I made a plate to block off EGR at intake. Drove it daily for a month. I noticed no difference in performance, no knocking or pinging, no nothing, not even a check engine light. Unblocked it and that's how it is to this day. So I'm basically adding nothing to this discussion.

 

[JJNOLA]

I made a plate to block off EGR at intake. Drove it daily for a month. I noticed no difference in performance, no knocking or pinging, no nothing, not even a check engine light. Unblocked it and that's how it is to this day. So I'm basically adding nothing to this discussion.

You're adding your experience! I've unplugged the dpfe sensor, vacuum regulator, removed the whole egr valve, blocked the egr intake port and now I have the whole egr pipe from the manifold removed, but screwed on hand tight for easy future removal... I need to know how to plug it since it's a gas fitting with a flared nut and I can't screw it in a dummy o2 sensor or even a bolt.

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[adsm08]

The piece that the EGR tube threads onto is an adapter. It can be removed.

IIRC the other side is pipe thread.

 

[JJNOLA]

I'm gonna take my egr pipe to the hardware store and see if I can get a NPT fitting cap that matches and see if I can use it to cap the open hole on the exhaust manifold so I can completely remove the EGR pipe. Right now it's just on there to prevent exhaust leak. I have the top end of the pipe plugged.

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