1994 2.3l code issues

[craig]

this truck has 337 116 and 47 when running, it also shows 337 when key on engine off. a mechanic said I should try flush and refill radiator because coolant hi or lower than expected is often the thermostat stuck with trash, I had replaced thermostat recently. tried draining a small amount, .5-.75 of cup coolant from petcock, it looks very new. will feel top hose when cool and then when engine hot to note difference. any advice appreciated

 

[Mark_88]

Hi and welcome to TRS~! I know it's not your first post but welcome anyway...

The codes tell you a more complete or different story from what your mechanic says but that is something you can check yourself with the actual codes. You can find them under the Tech Articles near the top of this page but I copied the link for you...

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/3digitcodes.shtml

This is three digit codes and the 2 digits are there also...

47 is low flow unmetered air...and there are suggestions along with each code (usually)...like vacuum leaks allowing air to bypass the MAF sensor. The MAF monitors the air coming in and this helps the computer along with the O2 sensor and others to determine how much fuel should be there...cleaning the MAF sometimes helps but check for vacuum leaks first...loose or falling apart hoses, connectors on the heater controls (vacuum operated) and other lines that may have come off...there are a few of those so trace them and ensure they are connected.

116 is the coolant sensor out of range so a flush might help that...but if the coolant is clear it's probably better to simply replace the ECT...it is fairly inexpensive...the one with two wires is the ECT...the one with one wire is for the gauge so ignore that for now...unless your gauge isn't working.

337 says the EGR reading is or was high...you could try removing and cleaning the EGR since it is fairly easy...providing the pipe isn't welded to the nut...so tap it a few times and work it back and forth after applying a bit of penetrating oil...if you bend or break that tube it can be a PITA but they are usually easy to replace.

 

[craig]

thanks! i had removed to clean egr prior, gasket did not want to come so i used gasket in tube on top of it, egr was not carboned up at all, not like my old mitsubishi mighty max that had that problem frequently. will look for vacume conections also, i guess under the dash at heater controls and elsewhere too

 

[Mark_88]

OK...I would check the voltage to the EGR to make sure it is within spec. Even getting the proper voltage and not being gummed up may not be enough assurance if the actual valve is not working.

I found this on-line that will help you test it...they are easy enough to change as you know and I'm pretty sure some of the intake or exhaust gasket kits come with them included...in the event that you might want to replace that part.

http://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford/4.6L-5.4L/how-to-test-the-egr-system-2

 

[craig]

I checked the coolant temp sensor, it has good resistence, and line voltage to it is good also, only if it has a bad wire or thermostat could be the problem, right? thanks again. craig

 

[craig]

the ranger code issue (a continuation)

replaced the dpfe sensor and light went out. did not even disconnect battery. old one had water in it. it had been mounted with only one screw on firewall, because of a slightly short sampling hose bought from auto zone. if I replace hose that is short, and so dpfe will be mounted correctly, two screws, maybe water will drain out of sensor better, not set off codes! question: what hose to use? have been told hose is special for high temps. thanks all

 

[Mark_88]

Mine was actually mounted on a bracket off the exhaust manifold bolts. It had two hoses running from the EGR tube up from the exhaust and they were heat resistant.

Try a muffler shop if you are not sure what to buy. They probably have rolls of the stuff and sell it by the foot...unless it is custom cut for each application...then it would be three times the price.

Get a bit extra and maybe consider clamping the ends because I had one come off and it sounded like the engine was going to self destruct. It wouldn't idle properly and kept stalling too.

Scary because I'd just finished fixing a major problem and this seemed to come out of no where.

 

[tomw]

You can get the 'blue' hose from FoMoCo dealer parts. Pull out a $20 bill, and watch it float away for a ~6" piece of hose, as I remember doing for a friends Tempo when I installed a re-man cylinder head. That was years ago, so maybe it will be a $50 now.
tom