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1994 2.3 Cranks and turns over but will not start


KnighteRanger

Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2016
Messages
7
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Manual
I got this little ranger from my buddy for cheap. Said it needed a tune up but I was thinking maybe more. Replaced the ICM due to the ranger only running on 2 cylinders. While it was running, I was able to remove 6 out of the 8 plug wires and the idle never changed. No spark to 1 complete coil pack and only 2 wires were firing. Now that I have replaced the ICM it won't even start. I spray starting fluid in the intake and it will run until the fluid is gone and then won't start after that. It will turn over and rev up then die. HELP ME PLEASE!!:bawling::bawling::bawling::bawling:
 
Did you knock off any wires while changing out parts ???? Does your 94 have a camshaft position sensor ??? It is what tells your computer to fire the injectors !!!! If your not getting fuel then this would be high on my list,,, and sounds like your not getting fuel if you have to spray it !
 
It is getting fuel. I checked that first thing. It ran on 2 cylinders before I changed the ICM and now it won't even start after installing the new ICM. Fuel pump turns on but I had to put a new ground wire onto the relay so it is running all the time.
 
Did you ground the new ICM? They have to have a damn near perfect ground to work....
 
I did ground the ICM, do you have to put the dielectric grease on it?
 
I use thermal paste for the back size where it touches the intake.
 
Injectors are getting power while key is on but drops to less than 6 volts while cranking over. What is the issue?
 
Injectors are getting power while key is on but drops to less than 6 volts while cranking over. What is the issue?

Check your battery voltage while cranking. Voltage drops like that usually indicate weak power sources or (equally often) bad connections. As mentioned before, check your grounds, as a bad connection there will do the same thing.
 
It is a brand new optima battery. I am getting 12.4 while cranking it over at that battery. I am about to sell this sucker as is...... I've been fighting this for 6 months and have about had enough. Fuel injection sucks, just saying. I wish it had a carb on it. That'd be soo much easier to fix. No school like old school. :dunno::dunno::mad:
 
It is a brand new optima battery. I am getting 12.4 while cranking it over at that battery. I am about to sell this sucker as is...... I've been fighting this for 6 months and have about had enough. Fuel injection sucks, just saying. I wish it had a carb on it. That'd be soo much easier to fix. No school like old school. :dunno::dunno::mad:

Start checking wires and connections. Sounds like you have a bad connection or an iffy wire.
 
First things first, check for spark again(If you already did). Also check for fuel getting into the cylinders, crank the engine over a few times and pull one of the plugs to see if it's wet with fuel. Find out which one it's missing and let us know.
 
Check the switch on the column. The one under the cover. I had the same thing happen several years ago. As I turned the key switch. The rod would push the top part of the column switch and it would short causing the voltage to drop at the ECM. When I took the column switch off it was completely separated into 2 pieces.$10. fix. And my truck sat for months before I had time to track it down.

Sent from my RCT6773W22B using Tapatalk
 
Sounds like someone should ask, where did you source the ecm? And did the big plug get damaged have any lose ends? We know 2 injectors are wired good enough so at least 2 cylinders "run." made a change and they are gone. The ecm connects to each injector separately and there's a 12v constant. The 12v constant comes from power distribution. Is it a good connection? I think your seeing the 6v fire or the 12 is losing 6v (battery ground, rectifier, alt., or short). But then do you see a "fire" pulse? Yada Yada.

I don't think you touched anything new and it would be really odd a new sensor broke between your test, ordering the ecm, and installing it.

Just my 2cents, but retrace steps.
 
I ordered a I C M not a ECM. The Ignition control module is the part i replaced. I can get it to run for the short time that the starting fluid is in the intake tube. I am not very good with the whole EFI stuff. I am used to working on pre EFI vehicles so bare with me please lol. This ranger ran on 2 cylinders when i got it, barely. Now that i have replaced the ICM it will NOT run on its own. I am getting fuel and fuel pressure to the fuel rail but that is where it stops I assume that it is going into the cylinders but haven't pulled a plug after trying to start it due to the fact of me getting frustrated with it not running. I will pull a plug and see if the fuel is indeed getting into the cylinders. I appreciate all the input on my issue. I will report back with more info when i get off work.
 
Sorry bro, read it again and came off salty! You try switching back the icm? I'd try the KOEO test in the tech library at this point. But mostly for giggles. I'd also start trying with the sensors disconnected 1 by 1, check the grounds (passenger side is the ecm ground) and wack the crank sensor with a screwdriver. But I'd actually spend money on a crank sensor. Although where do you live? Maybe someone on here is local.
 

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