1993 Splash build

[deathbypsi]

Yeah most of the RBV coils are way to stiff for any good flex. On my 90 B2 I ran Skyjacker Softride Jeep XJ 6" coils and it rode and flexed sooo much better over the Duff coils I took out.

 

[brinker88]

Here's my measurements for my mounts. If anybody wants to copy this, go right ahead. I am using the Ballistic Fab joints for my arms just because of the narrower mounting width (2.375) so if you're going to be usuing Currie Johnny Joints, you will need to make your mount wider. I've also been talking to Sasquatch_ryda about these arms he built and he said that they rubbed at full lock. I've been thinking of trying to find someone with a tubing bender that can bend square tubing. The reason they rub is because when you cut the stud off the old arms, you also cut the slight bend (maybe 10 degrees?) off in the arm. So I want to re-incorperate the bend back INTO the tubing so I can eliminate that problem.

 

[brinker88]

Beginning of my transmission crossmember. I'll have 2 piece bushings inside 2" OD tubing for mounting onto my radius arm frame mounts.

 

[brinker88]

Well it looks like I'll have to deal with that slight rubbing issue on the arms because no one I know here in town has a die for 2" square stock.

On a lighter note, I ordered everything I needed from Ballistic today
including my 4140 Chromoly Joints, shock tabs for the arms, tube adapters, jam nuts, Poly bushing w/ DOM sleeve (3" overall length), etc, etc. Cant wait to start

 

[RangerSVT]

As for bending the tube, your not talking about bending a 90*, put it in a shop press and put a slight bend in it. Also, make sure your new pivot point for your arms are not past the point where your front driveshaft connects to your tcase otherwise you will have binding issues. I used Currie's joints in my front 60 swap, and they are pure beef!! You'll like em. I know I do...

SVT

 

[brinker88]

SVT, thanks for the heads up on the mounting, I really appreciate it. And thanks for the heads up on the shop press, I didnt even think of that!

I went with the Ballistic Fab joints for the single fact that they are the ONLY manufacterer of these joints that makes them in a 2.375 mounting width (ranger frame is 2.5)

 

[RangerSVT]

My joints are the 2.63's, but what I did was take a 2.5" OD square tubing with a 1/4" plate welded to it, bolted that inside my framerail with another 1/4" plate on the outside the framerail sandwiching the frame, then mounted my joints inside of that...I'll see if I can dig up the pics in my build thread a couple pages back...

SVT

 

[RangerSVT]

I found some pics...

SVT

 

[brinker88]

That's not a bad idea there at all. My mounts are already cut tho and the joints are ordered lol. I also went with the Chromoly joints instead of the forged steel. Dont know if it will matter or not but...we'll see how things turn out. Planning on welding them up on Monday after work.

 

[RangerSVT]

I will tell you that if you mount under frame like I did, you will definitely want to put a bend in your linkbars as where mine reach the axle, they stick out past the frame limiting turning radius. My bars are straight, but phase 3 of the build will solve my problem with turning, which will begin at the end of the summer

SVT

 

[brinker88]

Well I was frusterated enough to continue calling around. Found out that my local Worthington Trailer supplier has a pipe bender that can bend this thick of square tubing. They said $25.00 to bend both pieces. I think that's insurance enough. I dont want to kink the tubing while trying to bend it on the press. I'll do some more calculating tonight, but I think a 10* bend should do it.

SVT, what's in phase 3? I forget...dual steer?

 

[RangerSVT]

New axles and new, stronger better designed frame...

SVT

 

[brinker88]

Nice!!

 

[RangerSVT]

The narrowed 60's thats under SVT now are going under the sport trac. One might think locked and loaded 60's might be overkill for DD use, but I will definitely will not have to worry about em
SVT

 

[brinker88]

Baha, I'd think not!