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1993 Splash build


are you covering your entire surface with marking compound? cause if not, it looks like your contacting the outside of the ring gear, and your pinion is way too far in. id also put a little tension on the pinion flange while your spining the ring gear.. it makes the pattern more visible.

are you applying a load when you check your pattern? if not, then youre pattern wont be accurate...

Whats the best way of creating a "load"? I just used a breaker bar/socket and turned the pinion.

Just take and hold the pinion yoke with your hand and rotate the ring gear by hand, you don't need a lot of load, but enough for the gears to mesh and mark a pattern...

SVT

Ughhhh, lol.
 
Ughhhh, lol.

:icon_confused: Do you want to elaborate on your last statement there? This is my first time doing gears. Excuse me if I don't know all the tricks of the trade.
 
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I know, its a learning process. Dont take it as an insult at all, as thats not what i meant. I just thought it was funny that i mentioned how to do it 3 posts ago. After you do your first set, its at least 10x easier than the first time you do them. It was a sarcastic sigh meant as a joke... it has nothing to do with the work youre doing.
 
I know, its a learning process. Dont take it as an insult at all, as thats not what i meant. I just thought it was funny that i mentioned how to do it 3 posts ago. After you do your first set, its at least 10x easier than the first time you do them. It was a sarcastic sigh meant as a joke... it has nothing to do with the work youre doing.

It sunk in the second time :thefinger: (In fact, I don't even remember reading that part of your post, TWICE lol ) I've been running myself ragged lately
 
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Just found these new(ish) Barnes 4wd Enduro Joints. There are a hell of a lot more plusses to running these over Johnny Joints any day of the week and are only around $5.00 more each. They're definitely going on my truck for my radius arms.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/barnes-4wd/1181529-enduro-joint.html

775457d1362245288-enduro-joint-enduro-joint-1.jpg
 
What are these pluses over Johnny joints that you speak of?
 
Extra inch of thread on the shank. 10 more degrees of mis-alignment, Heat treated AND chryo treated. etc etc. click on the link above the photo
 
Scored a 40 lb HF sandblaster on CL for $30 a couple months back and finally got to use it for the first time tonight. I'm sandblasting the shell of my transfer case with glass grit ( $35 for 50 lbs! :O ). I'm not sure what I was expecting, but it exceeded them. The part of the shell that I finished looks brand new and polished. I'll get some photo's up when my camera batteries are charged.
 
Is it a sand blast cabinet, or is it an open unit style? I know I could use one, might have to get one if it works as good as you say it does. Do you have before pics of the case half?

SVT
 
It's an open style. Suprisingly you can save MOST of the blasting media with a broom and some window screen/coffee can

Before:
IMG_20130209_125311_zps0e7146dd.jpg


After(the whole case WILL look like this when I'm done):
733813_10200241816600118_342806604_n.jpg


156029_10200241817400138_1567927772_n.jpg
 
^ That's a pic I found online ( I think it's Plumcrazy's actually by looking at the logo on that plastic tool case) but you get the idea.
 
Yup thats the one I have for sale.lol. I don't even have truck that case is sitting on anymore.lol

-PlumCrazy
 
Looks good. You can also make a cheap decent blast cabinet out of wood and line it with poster board. Here's a thought on the RBV cases, the 4405 front case half is all one piece. Might be worth looking into using the case and parts of the internals (has the 6 pinion planetaries) and the 54 internals to make a good, strong setup. I have most parts of a 4405, when I build HWW's doubler I might try to work something out...


SVT
 

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