1993 Ranger A/C Air Conditioner

[rbhous]

I didn't realize this Heating and Air Conditioning forum existed, so I accidentally posted to the General Discussion also.

I have a 1993 Ranger Splash installed without AC and was wondering if anyone would know all the parts necessary to put one in. I know about the condenser and compressor, but am wondering if I need a different heater box for example. Also, does anyone know what years are interchangeable with 1993. I believe I can go up to 1996, but not sure how far back I can go. Thanks for any info.

 

[reno]

1991 I would imagine, A LOT of work though.

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

the heater plenum ("box") is different...you'd have to switch it out. along with the 3 lines, accumulator/drier, condenser, compressor, evaporator, heater controls on the dash, and wiring harness to the various pressure sensors and the compressor clutch.

 

[AllanD]

the heater box is the same from introduction in 1983 up to 1994, but for practical reasons you should stick to either a 1994 Ranger or 1994 Explorer, as these are built from the factory for service with R-134a.

I'm not sure that the firewall mounted heater box from a 1995 is the same as your 1993.

the compressor and lines used on the 2.3 are VERY year specific, bascially
you must find the compressor and lines from a 1994 RANGER with a 2.3
because nothing else will work "as a set"

the lines are both year and engine specific, the compresor isn't.\
any Factory air compressor for '94-through 97-ish will work
(later than that and ford starter playing bolt diameter games)

The condenser (the part in front of the radiator) is RANGER specific.

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[Wicked_Sludge]

the heater box is the same from introduction in 1983 up to 1994

not true. there are two heater boxes available for gen III's; one for trucks with and one for trucks without a/c. the non-a/c box is much smaller as it doesnt have the extra protrution into the engine compartment for housing the evaporator.

95+ trucks all use the same heater box...the boxes in non-a/c equipped trucks just dont have the holes punched out for the lines.

 

[AllanD]

not true. there are two heater boxes available for gen III's; one for trucks with and one for trucks without a/c. the non-a/c box is much smaller as it doesnt have the extra protrution into the engine compartment for housing the evaporator.

95+ trucks all use the same heater box...the boxes in non-a/c equipped trucks just dont have the holes punched out for the lines.

Context... apparrently an arcane concept.

Yes A/C and non AC boxes are different, what I'm saying is that all A/C boxes from '83-94 are the same. (actually there is a difference, the 89-up have a mounting tab for the vacuum reservoir and at the bottom where the two halves are held together where it seperates tp remove the evaporator core)
the later box the screws go into the fiberglass on the opposite side, the '83-88 boxes use screws going into clip-nut to hold the two halves together, but only in those bottom two screw positions.

Happy now?

I believe the Later Gen3 heater boxes look similar but are NOT the same.
the mounting bolts are located differently.

they are also shaped differently the corners are all more "squared off"
the evaporator core inside is shpaed differently and uses different fittings... etc...

Remember that one little unobserved detail can leave you
completely screwed.

He's got a '93-94 it's EASY to find a near identical donor.
Hell if he asked me I could probably find four or five.
In ONE junkyard.

I KNOW a '94 box will fit in an '87 because that's what I have.

I therefore KNOW that an 87 (or earlier) box will fit in a 1994.

Even if I believed that a '95 would fit a 1994 I wouldn't say
so because I haven't done it.

Nor should you.

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[Wicked_Sludge]

i never said the 95+ boxes would fit his truck...sorry to confuse you (easily done, i know).

and saying all '83-'94 boxes are the same is, again, untrue. all the a/c equipped boxes and non-a/c equipped boxes are the same...but to go from a non-a/c eqipped truck to factory a/c means swapping in the proper box.

 

[4.6StangRage]

Is this really worth doing? Personally I can really use it. Rating 1-5 how difficult would it be?

1. easy removal, easy Drop in, wiring harness requires no splicing and plugs in with no problems.

2.slightly difficult removal, drop in requires very easy light fabbing, only a few wires have to be modded/ spliced.

3.Job requires few special tools slightly difficult removal, drop in requires very easy light fabbing, only a few wires have to be modded/ spliced. requires cutting/drilling.

4.Job requires lots of special tools, difficult removal, drop in requires moderate fabbing, many wires have to be modded/ spliced. requires cutting/drilling.

5. Job requires a full arsenal of special tools (ASE), Very difficult removal, Drop in requires lots of fabrication for mounting brackets and ect. Whole Dash Removal req'd entire wiring harness related to the A/C needs to be completely fabbed. Requires cutting drilling welding.

i will have some more questions!

 

[MAKG]

IMO, it's 100% worth it; I went through this exact process in 2000, with a Bronco II. And on your scale, it's a 1. No fabrication is required, but you do need to get the correct compressor bracket for your application (they do NOT interchange across engines).

It requires significant skills to evacuate and charge, but next to nothing to assemble. Read the sticky at the top of the forum.

The only special tools needed for disassembly are Ford fuel line disconnect tools. For assembly, the worst is a pair of crescent wrenches, a longnose pliers, and a 5/16 nut driver. Really. But if you use junkyard equipment, you need to have it flushed by someone with experience (preferably a shop). For all-new equipment, don't bother. Always replace the receiver/drier and orifice tube. For used equipment, replace every O-ring.

 

[4.6StangRage]

nice, how long do you think it would take an average person to remove the components from a salvage yard (pick n pull)?

 

[MAKG]

I think the question you mean to ask is, how long does it take an average person to get the system working, counting pulling the parts from PnP.

The answer is infinite. PnP parts are left in the weather FOR MONTHS. They won't be usable.

If you're going to go with junkyard parts, you want to find a FULL SERVICE yard with a section 609 cert, so you can buy parts that have just been recovered that morning.

PnP is fine for finding that unique compressor bracket (those even survive engine fires provided they aren't too hot), or for the electrical parts and control head (provided you inspect them). But I wouldn't go anywhere near there for parts that touch refrigerant.

 

[4.6StangRage]

yeah I go to PnP every two weeks and never see the same ranger/explorer twice. One time I found a 2.3L ranger XLT with CC,AC, tilt (which i want to pull out)and also it was just like mine. it had to have been there a week before i got there so I pulled some interior parts off, went home for two days realizing that i forgot a piece, went back and it was gone. so they really dont sit for long. I was thinking of replacing the main components with new, I just want the lines, brackets, and wiring, heater box, and whatever is not affected by weather. Btw thanks for your quick replies and info.

 

[MAKG]

There are only two "lines" for 4.0L. The liquid line is DANG cheap. The compressor manifold is expensive, but it contains a filter you'll never flush in a million years. Not worth it.

If it touches refrigerant, buy it new unless you can find a better source than PnP. One contaminated line can destroy your $300 compressor (and ruin your condenser as well).