1993 4.0 clutch question

[matticus420]

Lately I've been having some issues

when clutch depressed idle goes up
sluggish start
i feel the motor creating power but not putting it down

I bought the truck about a year ago
just found out a couple months ago that's it was and auto changed to a 5 speed

 

[JC 97]

Sounds as if the clutch is slipping.

 

[bigtruck94]

Sounds as if the clutch is slipping.

X2. Time for a new clutch and while at it you could replace the slave cylinder.

 

[RonD]

You can test slipping by driving slowly then put it in 4th gear and stepping on the gas, you will feel it slip if it does.

On the other end stop on a flat road, put it in first gear leave clutch in and race the engine, if you creep forward the clutch is not disengaging.

Either could be the hydraulics, if master cylinder is bad it might not be releasing pressure so clutch in never fully engaged.
If there is air in the system it will not fully disengage.

If you mean idle goes up when trans is in neutral and you push in the clutch then trans could have an issue.
Neutral shouldn't be a load on the engine, something isn't right in the tranny.

 

[matticus420]

Damn that sux...
Ill try those things out
If its the clutch im gonna have a field day changing it....
Any new clutch set up suggestions?

 

[bigtruck94]

Damn that sux...
Ill try those things out
If its the clutch im gonna have a field day changing it....
Any new clutch set up suggestions?

I would go to your local parts store or Carquest and buy a clutch kit and a slave cylinder. You might as well also buy a new flywheel while replacing the clutch. If it's not chipped or anything, it's still good. I just replaced mine and it was worth the money! Truck works a lot better now! All around costed about 300 bucks just in parts and saved 700 bucks doing it myself without taking it to the shop. If you have a Haynes instruction manual for 90-98 rangers, That would help you out a lot.

 

[RonD]

Don't forget to change the rear main seal, at 20 years old it could go at anytime, and the seal is cheap, getting to it is the hard part.

Bleeding the system after install is hard.
The trick is to not let the reservoir and master go dry, so seal up the disconnect as good as you can.

 

[hank857]

well from experience, if you r&r the slave or master, do both as one or the other will fail soon after if not replaced and the slave is inside the trans so it has to be pulled to get at! Autozone has a duralast kit for around $200 with lifetime, they have replaced mine a couple of times. They also have lifetime on their slaves and masters I think. Most folks dont keep long enough to use the lifetimes but if ya do they are there. Also look at the u joints if they are loose or sloppy while out. The trans removal/replacement is not that hard if ya have tools, can be done by yourself but a helper is always handy. I got 2 long metric bolts to slide the trans out/in on makes it very easy. they are about 15 inches or so long no heads. My BIL worked for a nut/bolt company and he got them for me. makes doing it by yourself easy, you could probably make yourself with some dies and steel rod.

also while trans out r&r the main seal after you pull the flywheel


To test the clutch instead of 4th, put in 2d on slight incline, let clutch out should try to move if not then yes clutch is shot.

 

[matticus420]

Ill do that then ill change all three at one time
i got a buddy that works at orileys so ill ask him for the parts and
try to do it myself but not to sure Yet

thanks for the input

 

[PanamaExpat]

Do yourself a favor and get a LUK Rep Set clutch.... They are about $100 and if you look at the pic I attached you will see why.

The LUK is much heavier duty than similar priced cheap Exidy or other Chinese stuff.

 

[matticus420]

That's awesome where did u get it!??!

 

[matticus420]

Ill c if i can post a video so u guys can c and hear wats its doing

 

[Andy D]

Google US parts.com for LUK rep set Get everything from the RMS out. I couldnt find anyone local who resurfaced flywheels. So I bought a new Fernco from AZ for 70$. Make sure to swap the pilot bearing too.

I went in planning to just replace the disc. Taking the transmission out was a PITA job, so if I dont have to take it out again, I'll be happy. It was worth it , the clutch works great.

 

[matticus420]

http://www.usautoparts.net/catalog/...0336+4294963731+1616&y=1993&mk=Ford&md=Ranger

i didn't find it here for the ranger..... Gonna keep looking

 

[matticus420]

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1993/ford/ranger/clutch/clutch_kit.html

found it here! Not bad I've seen good comments about them