1990 Ranger V8 conversion

[fordboy1990]

Well I’m half way into this mess and running into some issues. Here is what I have so far.
It was a 1990 ranger 2.9L XLT. I have 10" custom long arm suspension with a Dana 30 front diff. The rear is a 8.8 from an explorer with disk brakes.
I have a 1988 5.0 from a mustang complete with wiring.
Tranny, is a ZF from a F250
Transfer case is off the same truck as well. not sure what it is, but it big
I have install the oil filter relocation and the AA engine mounts. 96 explorer headers worked nice. Tranny installed with a 2" body lift. There are these tabs on the tranny that if I could cut them off would give me enough room for a 1" lift but oh well.
Tcase is sitting inside the fraim rail with 1/2" clearance from the frame wall. Had to notch it a little but will be re-enforcing the rail later.
All in all its fitting really well. should have the drive shaft next week and at that point all the mechanical should be done....here is to hoping.
All that is left is the Fuel lines, clutch lines, rad and electrical.

So on to my questions

What are guys using to connect the fuel lines to the motor. Am I able to use the existing ranger lines and connect them to the 5.0 fuel rail?

5.0 air pump, am I able to get rid of it as I do not need any emissions control.

Radiator, I got a real nice 4 core aluminum rad. its tall and I'll need to cut up the front rad supports, any of you have some real good ideas/pic of what you have done?

I will post pic's once I get them hosted.

 

[baddad457]

In getting rid of the thermactor air pump, you'll also need to plug the passages in the rear of the heads, otherwise you'll have two annoying exhaust leaks.

 

[projectnitemare]

A factory ranger clutch pedal and master will work fine for the ZF as well. And for those tabs you mentioned it would have been better to cut them off but it will be ok. I have a little more power and a 3in body lift, one hard hit on the gas and the drivers side tab punched a hole through the trans tunnel. So my other advice is use some sort of limit strap to control engine twist assuming you are using rubber mounts. You probably have a BW1356 t-case and they are big. If it's already in use it if not the NP205 or 208 are better fits.

Matt

 

[Teddyzee]

I ran new fuel lines from the fuel filter forward, as my springlok fittings would not come apart on top of the frame rail. Wasn't a big deal. I used the stock Mustang hard lines on the passenger side front of the motor down to the frame.

Yes, ditch the airpump, but remember to plug the back of each head...

I used my stock 4.0 rad. I believe there is a similar model for '94 and older.
With some slight trimming, it now sits under the core support, giving me a few extra inches of clearance between the rad and water pump.