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1990 5.0 swap thread (project Jenner)


It's tied into the oil filler neck on my 99 5.0 engine.
 
The oil filler neck has a little pipe section on it, to be hooked in to the air intake ducting.

There's also a hose running from the PCV valve to a fitting on the back drivers-side corner of the upper intake.
 
The oil filler neck has a little pipe section on it, to be hooked in to the air intake ducting.

There's also a hose running from the PCV valve to a fitting on the back drivers-side corner of the upper intake.
They must have replaced that before I got the exploder it was sitting for a while bad trans, it had nothing like that on there but it ran smoothly when I put the jumper pack on and moved 20 feet in reverse without stalling. Ill just put one on then no big deal.
 
I'm sure the fittings and the location of them will vary depending on what year and model of intake you're using..
 
I'm sure the fittings and the location of them will vary depending on what year and model of intake you're using..
its all from a 98 mercury mountaineer pulled the motor myself.
 
Maybe find a matched set and use two... it will certainly won't hurt a thing... and look cool.
 
Using the throttle cable from the 98 mountaineer had to shave the plastic down on the sides opposite of the hooks that hold it in place fits in the pedal nicely, put my 4.0 radiator in for a test fit I have 3 inches from the face of the water pump and radiator. Im gonna use a 16 inch 3000 cfm pusher fan. The one problem with the 4.0 radiator and the exploder accessory brackets is the alternator and water inlet are perfectly positioned to require a 90 degree turn off the neck.... engine is primed with oil and turns over the proper direction with the existing ranger harnees just need to wire the gauges and stand alone A9L



 
They just don't perform nearly as well as a puller fan. I've seen lots of user reports online where people installed a pusher fan to begin with and later had to end up switching to a puller fan.

Your results may vary, but if I were to do it, I'd just go to a puller fan from the beginning. Keep from possibly spending money twice. Especially when there are plenty of low profile puller fans readily available in several different configurations to fit nearly all applications.
 
They just don't perform nearly as well as a puller fan. I've seen lots of user reports online where people installed a pusher fan to begin with and later had to end up switching to a puller fan.

Your results may vary, but if I were to do it, I'd just go to a puller fan from the beginning. Keep from possibly spending money twice. Especially when there are plenty of low profile puller fans readily available in several different configurations to fit nearly all applications.
I can put this one in either way so I can notch the rad support an inch and ill still have a half an inch in between the rad and water pump. Also I can solve my alternator and water neck issue by doing this too. I could lean it forward slightly also about a quarter inch if I cut it right.
 
It's your build bud, so do it however you think is best, or how YOU want it. I was just trying to relay what I've read several times over the years. You may get by perfectly fine with a pusher fan. You can certainly try it and see what happens. See how hot she runs over the long term in different scenarios.
 
Well I want to make it reliable. I have only really had old Power wagons and Ramchargers with carburetors that I messed with and they have miles of room, ive owned rangers and explorers but they were stock. So input is appreciated, the only thing that I hate about online interaction is the lack of emotional context, so you or I might think someone is saying something hostile but isnt really the case.
 

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