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1989 WALL-E Ranger Build


i like it id probally leave it as it is so i wouldnt feel bad when i hit stuff on the trails lol
 
Update:

Was screwing around in the driveway after I bought some new tires for my truck, I got 6 32"x11.5 Procomp A/Ts on Mickey Thompson Classic II wheels with centercaps for 250$. Three were full tread and three were like ~50-70%. I looked up the tires and rims and for all six new it is like 2200$. What a deal. So after putting them on, even still thinking the truck is out of alignment a friend drove it to the tractor supply next door to my house and drove it back and told me it drove like a dream. Well after taking a look at the tires I realized they were almost perfectly straight and aligned. Then I realized he had drove it straight and it aligned the tires. Ive been backing up then checking the tires only to see them bowed out. I guess my alignment was almost dead on since if I pulled forward they went straight. Eitherway, I drove it down the road to the alignment shop and hes gonna do a 100% alignment to insure I dont ruin anything. Should have it back tomorrow.

Also, I was looking at the extended brake line article in the tech forum and while I was looking at the extension for the brake lines I realized autozone specifies the male end of the 13" extension as a M10-1.0, but the normal ranger thread is a 3/8-24 fitting along with the other lines specified to run to the caliper.



Tech Article

Weight: 0.3 lbs.
Bracket Material: No Bracket Required
Brake Hose Assembly Length (In): 13.375
End 1 Fitting Material: Treated Steel
End 1 Type/Size of Fitting: Male - M10 x 1.0
End 2 Fitting Material: Treated Steel
End 2 Type/Size of Fitting: Female - 3/8-24
Gaskets Included: No
Hose Material: EPDM Rubber
Installation Hardware Included: No
Location: Front
Package Contents: Brake Hose

Has anyone done this trick and how did it work for ya
 
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While the rangers been at the shop, Ive knocked out my other project. A 1949 International Kb-1 RatRod. Just added a full Serpentine Setup and replaced and cleaned up the intake.

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Vid1
If yall can view it, its the video of the first start of the truck.

Vid2
And this was outside today for the first time in months.

Also, a little more ranger related I forgot I didnt post these, but these are the new tires and rims I picked up for 250$.
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Disappointing just got a call from the shop and the tech said with my bushings in it now its still 4* out and he would not be able to bring it in farther then the bushings I bought. He told me to drop to a 4" spring which I can get free for trade for my 6" from a friend... Guess Memorial day wheeling might be out of the picture
 
Id rather spend 50$ and get the 4" and keep the 6s for a rainy day, the brackets will be too expensive right now I just want to get this thing on the road haha. And it wont bulldog as bad with 4" coils. After reading up on 6" on 4" drops, this is only ever possible on ext cab trucks with a 4.0 usually.. oh well. Looks like my friend had a set of 6" springs instead of 4, they measure 18.5 long... ugh
 
Wall-E, LOL. I like your rat-rod truck too. Ever think about chopping the top for an even rattier look? It's a lot of work and $ for that though.
 
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Wall-E, LOL. I like your rat-rod truck too. Ever think about chopping the top for an even rattier look? It's a lot of work and $ for that though.

Choppins easy to me, Ive had a ford n chevy we did it to, but this international is a tilt windshield, and im 6' 250lb and the internationals have half the room of the other trucks, so that ruled it out haha
 
So my current springs measure 19" unsprung and 15-15.5 compressed. A friend has 18.5 tall ones and he says that they should be a less compression ratio but well see

Its crazy to say, but the stock are 10" compressed So I guess these are 5.5In springs, Kinda wishing I had a 4.0
 
I was just thinking, on my 79 ford we put a 2x2 square stock under my coil bucket and moved it down two inches, what if i was to remove the stock buckets on this truck and move them up an inch or inch and a half? Finding new coils is turning into a nightmare, and about an hours worth of work and a few grade 8 bolts, and I could fix this issue.

Questions are, Since it will sit at 4IN with a 6in coil, This should give me more articulation, but is it possible this spring will bind on the frame rail? I dont believe so but I would like to see if anyone else has dont something similar by bringing the bucket Up higher on the rails.
 
Idea thrown out, while the passenger side would work, the driver side frame rail bubbles above the bucket for the steering box.

Ok, as much as im going to hear shit for this, I measured the coil rungs they are 3/4 of an inch each, If I cut directly below the factory cut on the top rung or slightly higher then it, this would drop the coil 1.5IN compressed. Yes I know this is not the correct way to do it, but Ive done it on other things I just have to put a clamp on the one side to insure the coil will stay in there now since it will have an upward curve instead of being flat on top.

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So we cut about 3/4 of a rung of each side and the truck now sits level. With the stock camber bushing on the drivers side, the camber is 0degrees with the 11in wide tires and about 0.5-1 on the passenger side with the bushing all the way out. I might trim a bit more depending how it sits with a thinner tire on it. Gonna throw on my 9.5s and check it again.

Should I get the truck aligned on thinner tires or wider?

I believe the thinner would give me a true estimate of the actual camber.
 
Doesnt matter WHAT size tire's on the damn thing. The larger the tire, the more you will notice it is all. Tire size does NOT affect camber in any way whatsoever.
 
Alright, Thanks just wanted to verify

Edit: I was only asking because I was getting a very basic reading off the hubs of each side.
 
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Ill be getting the drivers fender off a guy along with the lower grill valence and the part of the headlights I need for 40$.

Sounds like a deal to me anyone have any insight?
 

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